Alpine ski rating - the best models. Choosing cross-country skis: rating of the best brands Are skis good

We have a tradition in the campaign - at the end of the ski season, in March, we all go to the mountain to close the season - almost everyone skis with us.

After that, the core of the team of testers leaves for a month to Cheget - to ride, communicate, continue to discuss and test the best alpine skiing.

This year, in addition to their Bent Chetler and Atomic Automatic, they are taking with them three all-round skis for the 2017/2018 season, which they liked the most during the preliminary tests. These are Atomic Vantage X 83 CTI, Head Monster 83, Atomic Vantage 90 CTI.

The fact that they chose these models after testing all the skis of all the leading brands probably says something. More precisely about many things. This is a selection of the best of the best all-rounders from hundreds of 17/18 season models they have tested so far.

We are the leaders in sales of alpine skiing in Russia in most ski brands, so we enjoy privileges from their side.

Today, March 1, 2017, we already have all the skis of the next year (season 2017/2018). They are brought to us from the factory, by special order, for tests a year before the start of sales. You can look at them in the store at Shabolovka, 23; in Europe, they will appear on store windows only in autumn. We have already tested them and selected the best, in our opinion, novelties.

We have been testing the best models for 10 years. We have our own largest team of testers - more than 10 experts of different levels and ages 21 - 69 years old. We have the largest test set of new products of the season in the country.

We thought you might be interested in our opinion, and made our rating...

Top 10 best all-mountain skis of the 2017/2018 season according to the 10Points team of testers in two categories.

We decided to single out a group of expert skis separately, since they require skills and a certain level of skiing technique and, for this reason, not everyone can handle it.

Top 10 all-round skis 2017/2018.
Category expert

Bogner Fineline Titan

Stockli Scale Delta 83

Atomic Vantage 90 CTI

Atomic Vantage X 83 CTI

Head Power Instinct

Stockli Scale Gamma 81

Movement Revo 86

The order and numbering here are arbitrary - they do not matter - all skis are of the highest level and it is wrong to single out the best here - everything is in the level. It's just a ten.

Most confident riders will be able to handle them at an honestly declared level - the key word here is "honestly" - from the average (from 5-7 years of active skating and above) and will not be able to disappoint experienced experts.

It happens that people in the store are direct experts - experts, and then they admit that it is difficult for them on these skis.

In principle, this is understandable. A man should be proud. And aim for more. Otherwise it is impossible. Not properly. For Russians.

Be honest about your level. If in doubt, come, call, we will help you figure it out and in most cases, by a number of leading questions, we can quite accurately determine your level and understand whether you can handle a particular ski.

If you have any questions, let's roll it before buying.

We have singled out the second group, "for everyone" - for those who are not sure that they can handle expert skiing.

We did not include entry-level skis in this group - this is the "golden mean" for those who do not consider themselves an expert, but ski confidently and want to buy the best all-rounders.

Top 10 best all-round skis 2017/2018.
Progressive.

Bogner Vision TR

Stockli Sale Beta

Head I.supershape Titan

Atomic Vantage 80 X CTI

Head Isupershape Rally

Atomic Vantage X 77 C

Head Strong Instinct

Atomic Vantage X 75 Cti

Often these two groups and categories intersect, the boundaries are subjective and blurred, you don’t need to take them literally - this is just an attempt to correctly position the models in terms of the level of exactingness in skating technique.

If you are a “flint” and are 100% confident in yourself, any will suit you.

If there is gunpowder in the flasks, if you like it hot, and your meaning of life is to overcome yourself, and you are ready to fight the dragon - you will rather like the first group, if not only the whistle in your ears and the crunch behind your back is important to you, but also comfort and lexus - skis from the progressive group are better for you.

They are no worse.

For specific questions about the selection of a specific ski for a task, we recommend that you come to the store on Shabolovka, call by phone, test the skis individually before buying, we provide this opportunity. Conditionally free*

We invite everyone of any level to the Official tests of alpine skiing Atomic, Salomon 2017/2018.

We are their organizer in the Central Federal District, Moscow. Participation is free. Venues and times will be posted on the website. You can leave an application for participation, and you will be informed about the places and dates in advance.

There is also a popularity rating.

He is different. Why?

First, the price. It doesn't exist for testers. For consumers, it is important.

The second is the mass character of the brand. For example, Stockli and Volant, few people were lucky enough to ride and compare with other brands and models, so few people know them from practice.

And some stores that use their "pocket" brands for which they have special commercial conditions from the manufacturer are not interested in promoting them, rather, on the contrary, to pretend that they do not exist.

We were lucky. We skated them all, different years, in comparison.

By good all-rounders, we mean the most useful and high-quality alpine skiing, which provides reliable and comfortable skiing on prepared slopes in any condition of their brokenness from the opening to the closing of the lifts from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. in any weather, on any condition of the slope, in any period, including spring, and give the opportunity to go beyond the track in a shallow fluff.

This is not freeride. Don't be confused. There are other skis. Much wider.

And, as usual, other people.

They cross the track across, and for them it is like a pedestrian crossing.

Forced stop...

There is little pleasure from skiing on prepared slopes. There are exceptions, but rarely.

They are mostly transitional and will be sold next season. Their popularity is likely to grow even higher.

The best all-round skis 2016/2017.
Popularity Rating. in the quality segment.

Head I.supershape Titan

Atomic Vantage X 77 C

Head Strong Instinct

Atomic Vantage X 80 CTI

Atomic Vantage X 83 CTI

Head Isupershape Rally

Atomic Vantage X 75 Cti

Head Power Instinct

More precisely, not the price, but the price-quality ratio.

Below are personal impressions of skiing and comparison of the best models of universal alpine skis 2017/2018

If all models are good, is there any difference? Yes, I have. First of all, in purpose and character traits.

I will try to explain which ski, for which task I would prefer, in order to outline the main differences

head titan

Head I.supershape Titan

Time-tested, the best-selling in the segment of quality expert station wagons over the past few years from the Head family in Russia. A very strong and very proven nut.

If you like to race aggressively early in the morning on prepared slopes and be able to turn on all-wheel drive in the afternoon 70/30, this ski will be one of the best options.

Skis are clear, strict, dynamic.

Not inclined to forgive mistakes, technically demanding, stable and capricious.

Trying to launch into a longer or shorter radius is unlikely for most.

Everything is strictly as stated in the textbook - if you get on the rails - be a tram to the very bottom. There is a special buzz from skiing on parallel skis on velveteen - at a level that is not inferior and sometimes superior to many trail (slalom) skis.

A powerful shot at the exit, they greedily bite into the ice (this is not a slalom or a sports workshop, you need to understand this based on geometry, that on ice it is always better on narrow sports shops, even better on 11 kg iron sports shops from the personal collection of Marcel Hirscher).

But. If we compare station wagons with a fairly wide (80mm) waist, then the tenacity on ice will be maximum here.

A unit with a sporty character, the highest dynamic characteristics.

Cons - freebies, they won’t let you drop your heels - they are not for that.

Requires good physical shape and technique

A ski with a sensitive informative sports suspension - on hard bumps, the legs take over everything.

They work well in bumps and drifts, but you won’t feel magical comfort here.

This ski is more of a sport than a comfort, but it will provide the necessary cross-country ability.

Similar in filling, with a smaller waist (76 mm) Head isupershape Rally has very similar characteristics.

head rally

Head Isupershape Rally

In this rating in the station wagon segment, we put the Head isupershape Titan in first place, as we see no minuses in terms of control and management, and in this case, a wider, 80 mm waist for a station wagon gives more advantages for the same money. Especially in March, in viscous and loose snow, when switching to flat dribbling on hillocks, going left, off the track, etc.

More comfort than the Titans on a heavily pitted, including a hard hilly slope, the Head Monster 83 is able to give.

Head Monster 83

To whom 83 is not enough, who is directly quite an expert-expert, they can take Head Monster 88 and more, as far as the arrogance of pride and bullets is enough.

We consider the choice of waist 83 to be optimal, since we are talking about station wagons. For skiing on trails in any state of weakness - from ideal in the morning to post-fusion at 16-30 - when it is already better behind the track than on it. Freeride is a different topic, a different life, different people.

In our opinion, for most Head Monster 83 is the optimal choice.

Compared to the Titan, this ski is equipped with a noticeably more comfortable suspension with greater amplitude and a much smoother ride.

This is no longer a sports car, this is luxury walking on hillocks, where the ski compensates and absorbs enemy terrain irregularities without jerking and excessive shaking - 30/70 - if exaggerated - 70 - broken slope - 30 - track - if you are going to use the ski like this.

That is, quite differently than Titan, exactly the opposite.

If you don’t get paid at all, or a broken track already in the morning - I would opt for Monsters - they are worth it ...

The ski is very powerful, charged, but not at all oaky, as it might seem from the description and name.

The radius is large enough, but the ski allows you to adjust it when loading at speed. I especially liked walking “on tails” on large loose bumps on this ski - shifting to the middle and back stance on parallel skis - the noses rise like the hull of a yacht with a powerful motor when going on planing - the bumps are no longer visible and inaudible - they simply don’t exist under legs and ski tails provide luxurious springy vibration damping.

In the expert ski class, for those who are so tough that most skis find it too “flimsy” you can look at another very high quality all-rounder from Head.

Head Power Instinct

Head Power Instinct

With a double layer of titanal - thermonuclear power - a shot like a cannon.

Soberly assess your capabilities - we never sell this ski "by color" - at the beginning you need to make sure that the future owner is able to cope with them. Skiing is very demanding and harsh. Forgiving mistakes is not her role. Threw out very experienced experts

On pimples you need iron knees ...

If you need 50/50 I would fall for -

Atomic Vantage X 83 CTI

Atomic Vantage X 83 CTI

Cuts, holds, shoots - only on the way - both in the morning and in the afternoon and March and January.

You may have noticed that in our reviews of last year's models we did not write anything about this ski, as if it did not exist.

The fact is that last year it was not included in the test kit in the spring, and we ignored it, because we are not used to repeating someone's descriptions or conjecturing its qualities. Fantasizing, according to the principle of the Chukchi - "what I see, I sing" based on the design, as others who do not have personal experience often do.

We write only what we know from our own experience.

We test all the skis we sell many times, in different conditions and sizes.

Atomic Vantage X 83 CTI - in my opinion, it is this ski that surpasses in its qualities the idol of the universal skis of the latest five-year Atomic Blackeye ti.

The best replacement, the closest ski in terms of meaning and level for the iconic and best-selling all-rounders in Russia over the past decades - Atomic Blackeye Ti and Atomic Merton b5

Those who have followed the history of blacks know that these skis have radically changed their design and content four times over the past few years, remaining the bestseller in the high-quality all-rounder segment among all brands for many years.

The Atomic Vantage X 83 CTI is the pinnacle of evolution and a truly improved version of the Atomic Nomad series.

I dare say - Atomic Vantage X 83 CTI is better than Atomic Blackeye ti of the last years of production

Much more powerful, more versatile, more interesting. But also more demanding. Really Expert.

In the 2017-2018 season, I take it for myself.

It embodies all the best that was in them plus new technologies.

Now no one will call blackeye insufficiently expert, "European", sharpened for prepared slopes, in the trends of models of the latest releases, etc. It was all exactly like that. It's true.

Now this is a full-fledged jeep, not a SUV - all four by four - ready for any broken slopes - “such a width, such a height”, any off-road, any swamp.

A superbly working rocker perfectly protects your feet on hillocks and ice banks, you can feel the work of wood, a pleasant invigorating return without overstiffening with titanal, as is sometimes the case in top models, this is not the case here. Here everything is in order, everything is balanced.

The arc is stable, does not break, allows you to swing the radius in reasonable ranges, very stable in flat dribble, interesting in the middle stance and on tails. Nothing trembles anywhere, everything is to the point, it easily enters the turn without ragged double radii - I don’t like this “pyr-pyr”.

Highest score - 10 points! Dream skiing - for spring, for big mountains.

Atomic Vantage X 77 C

Atomic Vantage X 77 C

About bought last year Atomic Vantage X 77 C no regrets - the best ski for comfortable relaxed skiing. In the suburbs it is more than enough.

All the same, you need to work with 83, and you can just be friends with 77.

It’s better to take 83 into swamps and slurry. If you don’t need a maximum and an anguish, 77 is very good

By the way, after the tests - who doesn’t know, we were the organizers of the official tests of Atomic, Salomon skis in the Central Federal District and conducted tests five times this year - the Atomic Vantage 77 C became the most purchased ski after the tests - the audience award and popular recognition

For most progressing - the most comfortable riding.

In March 2017 I took with me to Europe, to Zermatt for a week Atomic Vantage 83 CTI. Very satisfied.

Sometimes I regretted a little that I didn’t take a second pair with me - Atomic Vantage 77 C for more relaxed lazy riding. Both skis are very good.

If you consider yourself an expert enough to fight a dragon - take 83, if you like to lazy and cherish yourself or are not sure that you can handle it, or don't want to plow - 77 is the best. I like both.

Another model from Atomic is in great demand among our testers and it is also going to Cheget this year, according to the general opinion of the testers, it is worth dragging it with you. With a fairly wide waist - 90 mm, the ski behaves very confidently and comfortably on a prepared slope - which is not often found with such dimensions.

Atomic Vantage 90 CTI

30/70 (30% prepared, -70% broken slope)

Atomic Vantage 90 CTI

The ski has a superbly working rather soft full-size rocker, which perfectly fights bumps and broken tracks, protects the legs from unnecessary overload. The feeling of riding on a dead slope personally reminds me a lot of the work of also very good Instinct Series Head wagons.

Our experts "checkers" - owners of bent chetlers and automatics, who respect the width of the ski and understand its value, really appreciated this particular model, and consider it one of the best for where they don’t waste it. But this is Cheget. You understand…

Stockli Scale Delta.

30/70 (30% - prepared track, 70% - broken slope)

Stockli Scale Delta 83

This ski is unique, few people except us in Russia have it, few people know it, and even fewer those who have ever skated it.

The premium ski is, in our opinion, the best of the all-rounders from Stockli.

Stockley never made bad skis - if the promo sample was in doubt - it was turned into sawdust. All Stockli skis are impeccable. Everything is handcrafted to the highest standard by an elite Swiss brand.

We, and not only us, perhaps everyone who is able to feel the differences in skis, are fans of the now legendary Yoshka - remember the Salomon BBR-like skis with surf triangular noses Stockli Y 85, Stockli Y 77.

Everyone who has ever ridden them dreamed of having "such a Maserati" at home.

The noses were cut down and made rounded, the names were changed, but the soul and character of the skis were preserved

now this Stockli Scale Delta (83), Stockli Scale Gamma (81), Stockli Scale Beta (77) and Stockli Scale Alfa (74)

We put the Stockli Scale Delta in first place because of its greater versatility. Experts and just connoisseurs will not be disappointed with 81 waist.

In the smoothness of the ride, in the softness of glide and handling on velveteen, which does not disappear with time, when the road under you ceases to be a road and turns into a bunch of bumps and snowdrifts - the ski magically transforms, providing maximum performance both on ice and in drifts and in porridge and on mounds and shallow fluff. Made with love. In the mountains. For mountains.

We vouch for these skis. Checked. Us.

In the segment of expert wagons. Expertise is a very relative term.

All these skis are within the power of confident skiers and progressive skiers.

We do not include in this list "expert-expert" skis that the average experienced skier (5-7 years of active skiing) will not crank.

They are. There are many hardened, oak, wide, titanized and rigid firewood, from which we want to save you a little, we will not name out of respect for the brands and their creators.

In the 2017 2018 season, in our opinion, the best station wagons in the mass segment are two competing lines - the Atomic Vantage and Head Instinct series. The rest - stupidly lost in terms of price - quality ratio.

Putting Atomic or Head in first place will not raise your hand - they are on a level in quality at a comparable price - there are individual features and advantages of certain models for certain tasks.

Most of their all-purpose skis have received the highest rating from the test team, the quality mark "10Points!"

This Atomic vantage X 80 CTI, Atomic vantage X 77 C, Atomic vantage X 75 CTI, they have not changed, we have already written about them - you can read in more detail

Head got the highest rating Head Strong Instinct, Head Raw Instinct and for those who are harder and "hotter" - Head Power Instinct- read about them

Be careful when choosing a size - the wrong choice kills all the advantages of a ski. Especially versatile.

Technology is rapidly developing and old approaches do not work, sellers without personal testing experience often make mistakes. Specify when buying - whether the consultant rolled this model personally. Buy from people you can trust. If possible, test skis before purchase.

You can come to our store at Shabolovka, 23. During the season, 7-10 experts with personal experience in testing new products work in the hall on weekends.

Center, 5 minutes walk from the metro. Own parking. The largest selection available in Moscow. Best prices and Promotions.

It would seem that the answer lies on the surface - contact a consultant in the store. However, it is far from a fact that in the pursuit of profit you will not be sold expensive and, of course, high-quality skis that will be so fast and uncontrollable that a trip to the emergency room after a winter holiday is guaranteed.

How to avoid becoming a victim of marketing traps? How to choose the right skis? What parameters to pay attention to first of all? All questions will be answered by our article.

Main types of skis

If a person skis only during short winter weekends, then it is quite difficult to navigate and choose the right sports equipment among a huge assortment. Therefore, you need to know what types of skis exist and understand what kind of riding and skill level they are intended for.

All skis can be conditionally divided into several categories. Let's consider them in more detail.

Depending on the level of skill, skis are divided into the following types:

• Professional;
• Amateur;
• Tourist;
• For children and teenagers.

Depending on how you ride:

• Mountain;
• Cross-country.

The last two categories of skis have a broader classification, as they are suitable for different disciplines. Therefore, which skis are better - mountain or cross-country - we will determine using a comparative review.

Alpine skiing has the following classification:

• Skis for ski-cross. Designed for professionals and lovers of extreme driving. They are agile but unstable. An athlete must be able not only to stand well on skis, but also to quickly respond to changes in the situation. Such skis are made of the most durable material.
• Carving skis. Maneuverable and easy to handle. Slightly tapered in the middle. Allows the skier to take turns easily. Requires special riding skills.
• Fan carving skis. Designed for experienced skiers who love skiing without poles. The speed of such skis is small. They are controllable, since an elevated plate is provided between the boot and the ski itself.
• Freestyle skis. Suitable for snowboarders. These skis have a curved toe and heel. This form allows the skier not to fall, but to move on if he landed with his back to the track.
• Skis for a ski tour. Stable, non-slip, well controlled. Designed for areas where there is no lift. Riding on such skis is as safe as possible if the athlete has skiing skills on level B tracks.
• Skis for freestyle backcountry. Thisfairly wide skis that are designed for driving on snowy and uncleared terrain. The handling of such skis is as high as possible. They are stable and strong.
• Skis for freeride or with a thin waist. The width of such skis is 80 mm. Suitable only for professionals, as they are very fast, poorly controlled and require special skills to drive on the highway.
• Wide skis. They have a wide middle, nose and heel. Designed for skiing during the thaw. Do not sink in the snow, maneuverable.

Based on the above classifications, we can conclude that alpine skiing is aimed at professional athletes or for those amateurs who have already mastered the basics of skiing on entry-level slopes.

Cross-country skiing is divided into only two groups:

• For a classic move. These are long skis with a smooth surface, which are covered with a special protective layer. This layer prevents the ski track from slipping backwards.
• For skating. Short skis that have a slight rise in the center. This design contributes to the stability of the athlete when climbing the mountain.This type of ski is suitable for tourists who like winter walks in the forest or mountain slopes. They require basic riding skills.

Also, hunting skis are a separate category, which are divided into camus and bare skis. These products are designed for riding in a forest area where there are no cleared trails and there is a possibility of falling through the snow. They are stable, not too fast and manageable. Not suitable for classic mountain skiing.

Key characteristics of skis

The physical parameters of the skis determine how they behave while riding. Therefore, if you do not know which skis to choose - fast or more obedient - you should familiarize yourself with the parameters that affect the speed of movement:

• Ski length. This is the main characteristic that affects the speed of the skier on the track. Therefore, it is worth remembering that the taller and heavier a person is, the longer he needs skis. Long skis don't sink in the snow, they go fast and are more aggressive. The shorter the skis, the more obedient and easier they are to manage.
• Rigidity. This is a criterion that indicates the degree of flexibility of the ski. Each equipment manufacturer has different stiffness indicators. And the higher this indicator, the more aggressively the skis behave. Soft skis enter the turn more smoothly, but only if the person's weight is not too large. Rigid skis enter the turn more sharply, but their degree of stability is higher. For beginners, buying skis with a high degree of rigidity is not recommended. Such skis will go badly and constantly “throw” the athlete a little forward.
• turning radius. Often on skis you can find a numerical marking (from 10 to 20 m), which indicates the speed at which the ski turns. The smaller it is, the faster the pair of skis will turn. For beginner skiers, it is worth choosing equipment with an indicator of 14-16 meters. Teenagers take skis with a turning radius of up to 20 m. Professionals can choose the most agile pair.
• Equipment geometry. Such a characteristic as the shape of the ski is often misleading even for experienced athletes. Therefore, many beginner skiers often wonder how to choose skis in shape. Skis with a wide toe are more stable and turn easily. Products with a narrow toe make it easier to change edges. A narrow heel forgives mistakes, a wide one requires skill. The middle or waist of the ski affects flotation. For beginner skiers, it is worth choosing a waist from 68 to 75 mm, for professionals - up to 70 mm.

How to choose skis taking into account the weight and height of the athlete?

Each manufacturer of winter sports equipment has its own table of the ratio of the length of skis to the weight and height of a person. You can find out how to select skis and sticks from the universal table.

It is worth noting that 5 cm should be added to the length of classic skis. For skating skis, it is recommended to add 10 cm. Walking skis should be 15 cm longer than indicated in the table.

When choosing poles for classic skiing style, it is worth considering the fact that their length should be 25 cm less than the athlete’s height, and the length of skating poles should be 20 cm less.

Children's skis are selected not only taking into account the weight and height of the baby, but also the age. The detailed parameter table is as follows:

However, in addition to the length of the skis, it is worth considering such an indicator as the width. For kids aged 3 to 6 years, it is recommended to buy wide skis with a round toe. They are more stable and manageable.

At school age, the child already acquires the skills of caution. Therefore, skis for schoolchildren are a little narrower - about 5-7 cm.

Teenagers buy skis taking into account the style of skiing. Therefore, if a student likes to ride faster and can handle the controls, the width of the skis may be less than 5 cm. If the teenager is not confident in his abilities, he is skiing for the first time, then the width of the skis should be up to 10 cm.

When choosing skis for extreme skiing, you should consider the following recommendations:

• Freeride skis must be 15 cm taller than a person.
• The length of skis for breaking is calculated by the formula: skier's height minus 15-20 cm.
• The formula for determining the length of skis for a ski tour is as follows: a person’s height is minus 15 cm. If a person is dense, then 10 cm is added to the height.
• The length of freestyle or universal skis: the height of the athlete minus 15 cm.

Therefore, if you still do not know how to choose skis, the data table will help you solve this problem and purchase the right equipment.

What is the best ski material?

Finding out how to choose the right skis is impossible without an overview of the materials from which they are made. All alpine skiing according to the type of material is divided into wooden and plastic.

• Wooden ones are made from birch, ash, beech, pine and elm. It is these types of wood that are suitable for the production of skis. Wooden ones are cheaper than plastic ones.
• Plastic are produced using two technologies: cap and sandwich. The first technology involves the use of a foam core and a plastic coating. Sandwich technology is based on the use of a wooden base and a plastic coating.

The choice of wooden or plastic skis is everyone's business. However, it is worth considering some nuances that will help not to make a mistake with the choice of material.

• Wooden skis deform under the influence of moisture. They cannot be used during a thaw. In severe frosts, they do not slide back like plastic ones. Wooden skis are stable, docile and suitable for both beginners and professionals.
• Plastic skis are more flexible, break less often, and are not subject to deformation. They are faster and more agile. The only drawback is that in severe frost they go back.

Recommendation for athletes who used to ride wooden skis.If you decide to buy plastic skis, do not rush. Rent equipment. After wooden skis, plastic ones will seem naughty. Therefore, in order not to regret the purchase later, make sure that plastic products are suitable for you.

How to choose skis for a beginner athlete? To begin with, it is worth figuring out whether you will ride on a cleared track or on snow-capped mountains. For classic descents, skis without a notch, that is, smooth, are quite suitable. However, special mixtures must be applied to them, without which the skis will not glide normally. If you want to conquer a snowy peak, then notched skis are the best. They do not need to be lubricated and are more stable in the snow. However, keep in mind that notches in warm weather can play a cruel joke. Snow will stick to them and the ski will simply stop sliding.

It is also worth paying attention to the level of rigidity. You need to lean the ski with the smooth side against the other ski and see how much it bends under the influence of force. The gap between the skis should be no more than 1 cm. If it is not possible to compress the skis, then it is better to take softer products. Beginners are not recommended to take skis of a high level of rigidity.

TOP 10 best ski manufacturers

There are a lot of ski manufacturers. Therefore, when buying winter sports equipment, beginners and even experienced athletes are faced with the problem of choice. But if you highlight the TOP-10 best ski manufacturers, the circle of "candidates" for the purchase will be significantly reduced.

According to Snow magazine, the top ten ski manufacturers are as follows:

• Fischer;
• Rossignol;
• head;
• Atomic;
• Blizzard;
• Salomon;
• Volky;
• Elan;
• nordica.

The average cost of quality racing skis is from 200 to 400 dollars. Inexpensive domestic skis from brands like STC or Sorsu can be purchased for $50. Amateur models of famous brands cost from 80 to 100 dollars.

Recommendation.If you are a beginner skier, buy local products. You will be able to keep within the small budget, having received quite worthy quality. And when you gain experience and sports training, you yourself will understand what kind of stiffness, width and length skis you need to choose in the future. The only exception in this case is weight. Guessing the stiffness of Russian skis, if your weight is more than 70 kg, is quite difficult. Domestic skis are often an order of magnitude tougher than foreign ones.

What is the difference between domestic and foreign-made skis? The quality of top models of world brands for a Russian manufacturer is still unattainable. Expensive branded skis are mainly intended for high-end competitive skiers. They are manufactured at specialized factories, as a rule, in the countries where the manufacturer is located. The design of such skis is quite complex and is modeled on a computer. All developments are carefully tested by qualified athletes. Only high-quality expensive materials are used in the manufacture, often taken from the aerospace industries, where they have received high praise. That is why domestic skis cannot currently compete with foreign ones. But if you are not a professional skier, but a simple lover of winter skiing, choose domestic products - of sufficient quality, but at the same time affordable. Good luck on the ski!

Perhaps you will be interested

Alpine skiing is synonymous with alpine skiing, with many companies producing winter sports equipment. It is difficult for beginners, amateurs, athletes to give preference and choose the best alpine skiing. Often skiers wonder which skis are better to use: Fischer, Solomon? Especially for answers to such questions, a ski rating is compiled with an overview of most models, which will help facilitate the choice.

One of the main characteristics is considered the radius of the side cutout. The smoothness of turns depends on its size - the smaller the radius, the lower the probability of making a smooth turn. It will come out too harsh.

The level of difficulty of maneuvers is determined by the geometric shape of the ski.

Along with this, you should pay attention to weight. Easy to manage are those whose mass is less. However, they have a lower level of stability.

It is worth noting that the models of all skis are divided into male and female. Because of this division, differences in weight arise. Women's are lighter than men's, due to the special fastening structures installed on them.

The next parameter is the width. It provides patency on all sorts of surfaces. For example, for poorly equipped pistes it is better to use narrow ones, wide ones are intended for prepared and special pistes.

The strength of skis depends on their stiffness, and hardening to cracks and kinks depends on the distribution of stiffness. The best distribution is considered to be longitudinal.

Not only weight and width affect maneuverability while riding. Their size also has an effect on this. To perform maneuvers, short ones are used; for a straight route, it is better to choose a longer one. Beginners are advised to ride on carving skis, which will be five to ten centimeters smaller than their height. In addition, short ones are more suitable for skating, long ones for classic.

There are three types of alpine skiing, differing in their structure:

• "Box" - often referred to as "monocoque". The outer layer is the main element that envelops the core of the ski. This design is considered stronger than others.
• "Sandwich" is not named so by chance. Each layer is superimposed on the previous one, which resembles a sandwich.
• "Cap" - unlike the "sandwich", in this structure one main layer is hard, on which the rest of the materials subsequently cling.

Which skis are best?

Which ski is better to choose fischer or rossignol? The firm can be any, the main thing is to choose a model that is convenient and safe. It is better to take plastic hunting skis, and for simple skiing it is recommended to buy carving skis. They, unlike professional ones, are cheaper, although they are not inferior in quality. In addition, models for carving have a certain design, thanks to which riders enter turns without problems and difficulties, and inaccuracies in the actions of the skier are smoothed out.

The best brands of high price skis 2018

Rossignol Pursuit 400 Carbon is a model for serious skiers. Produced using the best modern technologies. Provides free entry into turns. Characterized by the quality of materials. Rossignol has a high wear resistance, which makes the model durable in use. The only negative is the cost of twenty-six thousand rubles (the most expensive skis in the ranking for 2018). Suitable for slalom enthusiasts.

NORDICA NRGY 80 is perhaps a versatile model that combines quality and appropriate price. For 24,000 rubles, the rider will receive maneuverable and comfortable skis that will cope with any tracks and speeds. Suitable for both beginners and experienced athletes, and thanks to the presence of colors, anyone will choose their favorite model. She did not find any shortcomings.

ROSSIGNOL PURSUIT is easy to handle and handles well at speed. Suitable for those who are just starting to train in this sport. The only negative side is the scarcity of designs and colors, but for those for whom quality is still more important, this will not be a repulsive factor.

ATOMIC Vantage X 77 C is lighter due to its lightweight design. Perfectly behaves on the track, responding to any movement of the rider. It will help beginners to gain experience on good equipment, it is also suitable for advanced skiers. It has a stylish design and durable mounts. It is recommended to ride on prepared tracks.

SALOMON W-KART - equipped with stable adjustability and easy to manage. This women's model will help the beginner learn how to perform simple maneuvers and behave correctly while riding at high speed. True, there were some shortcomings here: the skis are short, which makes them easy to maneuver, but they often wag in open areas.

Top mid-range ski brands 2018

Salomon Kiana W - This model of women's skis smooth out mistakes and are easy to manage. They have a nice design, easily turn into turns and have a solid construction. Among the positive features, there is one negative - with a direct descent, there are problems with stability.

Elan Explore 4 Plate - not endowed with sufficient strength to perform tough maneuvers. However, they are safe, calmly behave on equipped slopes.

HEAD Shape RX PR - more suitable for beginner skiers. Medium hardness, with adjustable bindings for any size, the skis of this model behave perfectly on the track and when performing maneuvers. Cons: Poor choice of colors.

Fischer XTR RC4 Speed ​​is a representative of sandwich models. Ready to use on groomed slopes and trails and for riding on snowy slopes with bumps and icy areas. However, when riding off-road, you should be careful - the model is not very durable.

Top Economy Ski Brands 2018

Rossignol Pursuit 11 Ca - suitable exclusively for beginners. The edge has been shortened for improved cornering control. Since the model is exclusively for beginners, it is not equipped with speed control.

HEAD Rev 70 PR - have a number of positive qualities that a beginner will first of all pay attention to: cost, attractive designs and handling. The weight of the model is small, and the skis themselves will help the skier become more confident and smooth out mistakes. Not designed for driving on snowy roads.

TOP 10 best ski manufacturers

Atomic

The company sells sports equipment for winter sports. Skis of this brand are considered elite products. The front surface, equipped with a special 3D profile, helps to achieve optimal load distribution, and a special structure helps to achieve optimal rigidity for the foot. The Atomik brand is one of the TOP leaders in the creation of ski equipment.

Blizzard

Popular Austrian manufacturer of ski equipment. This company has been repeatedly represented at international skiing competitions. Currently, Blizzard skis are used by the famous freestyle and freeride athletes of the world - Johan Johnsen, Eva Walkner and others.

Rossignol

Engaged in the creation of skis from simple models for beginners to professional equipment. Only the best materials are used in the production, which is why the products boast a high level of quality. The brand has been pleasing users for more than a hundred years, while not lowering the bar of quality. Subsidiary in France called "Dynastar".

Fischer

One of the leaders in the sale of alpine and cross-country skiing. Surpass the firms "Stc", "Craft" and "Azimuth". Suitable for skiing on any type of trails, has long been famous for its strength, reliability. The production center is located in Austria.

head

High-tech skis of the lower and middle price segment, but this does not prevent them from occupying the top places in the ranking of mountain equipment. They have a good sales reputation. At the Winter Olympics in Sochi, athletes using equipment from this brand won several gold medals.

Scott

The company got its name in honor of the founder - Ed Scott. He started with the creation of wooden ski poles, later moving into the production of the rest of the winter equipment, including the skis themselves. It is currently the largest manufacturer of ski equipment.

Nordica

An Italian brand that sells modern plastic skis that have not been found to have flaws. Well included in the turns, maneuverable, durable, absolutely safe. Available in both adult and teen models. Suitable for biathlon.

ELAN

This brand is rightfully considered the most progressive and modern of all the others. ELAN presents not only men's and women's models. Children's skis are also in high demand among young athletes. Every child will be satisfied if parents buy him skis from this company. Provides high speed when riding, not forgetting about safety.

K2

Compared to previous companies, this one can be considered relatively young - only 50 years on the market. A large number of specialists take part in the discussion when creating a new model. All criteria are taken into account: comfort, speed, safety, design. In addition to skis, the company is engaged in the production of boots, masks, helmets and other equipment, and since 1988 it has been the owner of another winter equipment brand - Mandshus.

Volkl

This brand is considered by many to be synonymous with quality. The only manufacturer of alpine skis in Germany, which gained its popularity among carving competitors in the nineties.

When choosing skis, you must first decide for what purpose they are needed. It is not often to ride on specially equipped tracks or to try and see if it is worth continuing - it is better to take a simpler and cheaper model.

When there is complete confidence that skiing will become a permanent hobby or even a profession, you can buy a more expensive model, equipped with all the necessary modern technologies and designed for all types of skiing. All mountain - skis that are suitable for skiing on any surface, surpass even freeride models ("stockli", "castle").

If you are skiing for the first time, or how to spend a minimum of money and get the most out of skiing.

Introductory part. Who is this article for? What is this article for.

There are conferences on the Internet dedicated to cross-country skiing. From time to time, people who come to these conferences, mostly beginners in skiing, ask me questions about the choice of equipment. Over time, answers have accumulated that I wanted to somehow arrange.

This article should answer the main questions that arise in a person who decides to buy skis for himself and his family, and who does not have much skiing experience, with the exception of skiing in physical education classes at school. As a rule, after this, a lot of time passes, inventory, technologies, lubricants change, and a person ceases to navigate in this modern abundance. Unfortunately, there are not always qualified salespeople in stores who are able to answer questions in detail. As one of those whom I helped with advice wrote, - "I was in the AAA store yesterday. I did not receive a response to a single question. They have no catalog and consultants." or "I was in the BBB store in the summer. I "tortured" the seller for an hour. I did not find out anything except the price." In addition, one of the tasks of sellers, no matter what they say, is to "unwind" the buyer to buy more expensive inventory, this sits in the subconscious of even the most conscientious sellers. Therefore, when you come to buy, you must clearly know what you need.

I will try to tell you how to spend a minimum of money and at the same time get the maximum pleasure from skiing for yourself and your family.

Ski selection

Still plastic...

First, a lyrical digression about wooden skis. Now skis with a plastic sliding surface are mainly sold (although wood continues to be used in ski construction). A person who rides on wooden skis, when switching to plastic ones, usually encounters a very unpleasant phenomenon - a strong kickback that turns skiing from pleasure into real torment. A person is perplexed - on pieces of wood I would have left for N kilometers long ago, but here I have to barely move my legs, and why did I buy this plastic. It is especially disappointing if such a person buys plastic skis not for himself, but for his child, turning physical education lessons into a humiliating crawl for him, forever instilling an aversion to skiing. What's the matter? The fact is that plastic skis are much more slippery than wooden ones. Firstly, when rubbing against snow, a tree is pretty disheveled, which practically does not happen with plastic, and then remember how wooden skis used to be smeared with HOLDING ointment along the entire length, only a little warmer ointment was sometimes added under the block. These two factors ensured the absence of tangible returns. Now, when buying plastic skis, many people naively believe that they do not need to be smeared, or they put ointment under the block that corresponds to the temperature on the thermometer outside the window, as they used to smear wooden ones. So, recoil on plastic skis can be avoided, but we'll talk more about this in the section on lubrication. And in terms of sliding qualities, plastic is much better than wood. In addition, the plastic sliding surface is much more durable. And if on wooden skis it’s not worth even trying to go into positive temperatures, then on plastic your season can become much longer. So don't be afraid to buy plastic skis.

Start with the classics

When choosing skis, a lot depends on what level you ski at and what style you are going to mainly run, classic or skate. Unfortunately, different styles require different inventory. There are so-called "universal" skis, but if you choose their length and stiffness as optimal for a classic move, then skating on them will be, let's say, uncomfortable. In addition, the question of changing the lubrication system will arise - in classic shoes, the block is smeared with holding ointments, and in order for the ointment to last longer, the block is usually skinned. Skate shoes require a smooth sliding surface along the entire length, and are completely lubricated with sliding lubricants (paraffins). And for classic ones, it is contraindicated to lubricate the block with paraffin. If then a holding ointment is applied to this paraffin (or even its remnants), then it will come off very quickly. In general, you should not combine incompatible. (But at the same time, you should not shy away from the word "universal" - these are completely normal skis, just select the length and stiffness according to the style of skiing).

Therefore, if there is a desire to try both styles and funds allow, it is better to take two sets, and if they do not allow, then stop at the classics. The skate requires wide prepared tracks, and there are not many of them. And people build a ski track for the classics in any forest or park. That is, there are many more places to ride. Also, keep in mind that prepared skating tracks are most often laid along difficult terrain with large ascents and descents - along hills and ravines, and are designed for trained athletes. It is not easy for a beginner to overcome such a route, you can “get up” after the second or third ascent. And you can’t drag your family along such a highway with you. (If there is a good (and easy) skating track near you, consider yourself lucky. In this case, the skating style is definitely worth a try.)

What skis to choose for a beginner?

First, about prices. Racing skis that stand at the top of the range of well-known brands such as Fischer, Atomic, Madshus, Rossignol, etc. usually cost between $200 and $350. Inexpensive domestic ones like STC, Karelia (Sorsu) can cost less than $35. Mass (amateur) models of famous brands cost around 70-100 dollars. If you are a beginner, take our skis, unless, of course, you are concerned about your "image". You will be able to keep within 30-35 dollars with quite decent quality. And when you gain experience and sports training, you yourself will understand what you need and where to move. The exception is if you have a lot of weight, say, over 70 kg. The main trouble with inexpensive skis is that it is very difficult to choose among them suitable for your weight. Here you have to move to a different price range, and choose mass models of famous brands. We will return to this issue below.

What is the difference between branded skis and those made here in Russia? The quality of top models of well-known brands, of course, is still unattainable for our manufacturer. These skis, intended for high-class competitive skiers, are made in special workshops, usually in the countries where the company itself is located. The design of such skis is quite complex and is modeled on a computer. Before being put into production, new developments are carefully tested by qualified athletes. In the manufacture, expensive materials are used, often coming from the aerospace industries. The production culture at such factories is very high, all skis undergo extensive testing on special computerized stands. All this together allows you to produce top-class skis. You can learn more about the production of skis by reading the magazine "Skiing" Nos. 17, 10 and other issues. However, manufacturers make most of their money on mass-market skis, which require much more than elite skiers. And here the situation is completely different. Let's take an analogy with computers. It's no secret that the components for mass production of even such well-known companies as IBM, Hewlett-Packard and others are mostly manufactured in Southeast Asia, for example, in Taiwan. With mass skiing, a similar story. It is more profitable for brand owners to place orders for production where it is cheaper, and to develop skis and produce top models themselves. Accordingly, there are huge factories that produce skis of various brands, including under their own brand. There are such factories in the Czech Republic, Estonia, Ukraine (Mukachevo, owned by Fischer), and we have the STC factory in Russia. The latter, for example, produces skis for Madshus, Karhu, Peltonen. So most of the cheap skis of these brands in our country are made in Russia, as well as inexpensive Madshus and Karhu ski poles. And own skis and sticks under the STC brand differ from them mainly in appearance and lower price.

Now more about the difference between professional racing skis and mass, designed for amateurs. The high cost of technologies and materials used in racing skis is dictated by the desire of manufacturers to provide the highest technical parameters that allow them to achieve victories in competitions. Often these parameters are incompatible, such as the weight of the ski and their stiffness. This forces the use of materials with improved characteristics, but which are much more expensive - carbon fiber, honeycomb filling, expensive acrylic foam. For the sliding surface, high molecular weight polyethylene with various additives is used, obtained from powder in the process of sintering under pressure and at high temperature. Such a porous plastic is harder, and is able to absorb much more paraffin, which allows the lubricant to stick for long distances. In addition, different weather conditions and course preparation place different demands on skis. Therefore, in the world of racing skis, specialization is common, which allows you to achieve the best glide in certain conditions, but at the same time forces you to have several pairs of skis. There are models specially designed for wet and dry snow, or for hard and soft slopes, or even, like Madshus, 4 options: soft for dry and wet snow and hard for dry and wet (multiply by 2 more, because skis are produced for skate and for the classics). In addition, designers compete in such parameters of skis as torsional rigidity, course stability, vibration damping and ski handling during fast gliding on descents and others. An analogy with the world of cars is appropriate here. There are many good cars that allow you to drive quickly and comfortably on various roads in different weather. But as soon as it comes to competitions where the price of victory is very high, for example, in Formula 1, there immediately arises the need for exceptional design solutions and specialization. These are expensive materials, tires for specific surfaces and weather conditions, fine tuning of the suspension for each track and rubber, and a host of other technical nuances. Accordingly, racing cars and skis show their exceptional qualities best on specially prepared tracks. Just as it is difficult to imagine racing a McLaren along the roads near Moscow, so you should not expect super speed from a racing ski on a broken, loose track trodden in the nearest forest. Simpler models are more appropriate here.

Amateur (mass) skis are versatile and suitable for most weather conditions. They use cheaper materials. Therefore, they are slightly heavier. For example, if the weight of a pair of racing skis is about 1 kg, then amateur skis weigh an average of 1.4 - 1.5 kg. Inexpensive extruded plastic of the sliding surface absorbs less paraffin, and, accordingly, the lubricant does not stay on the ski for so long. But it does not really matter if your usual "norm" does not exceed 10-15 km. As it is written in the article by Ivan Kuzmin "To Parents of Growing Skiers" in LS No. 8, it is generally accepted that the weight deflection of a ski determines 60% of the sliding properties of skis, 20% are determined by the material, condition and structure of the sliding surface of skis and the last 20% are determined by ski lubrication. Therefore, having successfully selected skis for your weight, you will get excellent driving performance, even if their sliding surface is not made of the most expensive plastic.

Another argument in favor of inexpensive skis is that if you mainly walk through the forest with your family, then such skis will serve you faithfully for many years. And if you want to improve as a skier and buy racing models for yourself, then these simple skis will remain with you for the first and last snow, on which it is a pity to tear expensive skis.

There are skis with a notch under the block. They seem to hold up well in soft snow. And they are attractive because, as buyers often believe, they do not need to be smeared. (In fact, they still need to be lubricated - this is what the manufacturers recommend). But I would not advise such, unless you really don’t want to mess with lubrication at all. Why? Firstly, in terms of driving performance, ordinary ones are certainly better. And secondly, skis without a notch are more versatile. The notch will work well on medium-soft tracks, but not on packed hard (or icy) or loose tracks. And ordinary skis can be easily adapted to changing conditions by changing the holding ointment and changing the length of the lubricated block. In addition, over time, the notch will wear out, and the holding properties will deteriorate. But in general, taking or not taking notched skis is a matter of taste.

How to choose skis

As written above, the weight deflection determines the driving performance of the ski by 60%. Therefore, the selection of skis for this parameter is the main thing in the selection process. The weight deflection or stiffness of individual parts of the ski along its length determines the distribution of the pressure of the ski on the snow under the weight of the skier. This characteristic is also called the ski diagram. Here is a typical picture for classic skis (ATOMIC ARC Cap Classic K, pictures taken from www.ernordic.com):

The upper part of the figure shows the distribution of pressure on the snow with increasing load at about half the weight of the skier, when the skier is riding on two skis. In the lower part, the distribution of pressure when pushing with one foot, when the block with the holding ointment is pressed into the snow. For skating skis, the picture will be different, since they should not have a maximum pressure under the block during the push (ATOMIC ATC Racing Skate):

That is, skating skis should be stiffer than classic ones for the same skier.

A good ski should bend evenly, in proportion to the applied effort. Otherwise, excessive pressure on the snow may appear in certain areas of the ski, which will lead to ski braking and rapid lubrication in these areas. Here are the drawings from the article by V. Smolyanov (Journal of Drugs No. ...).

You can check the ski diagram only on rather sophisticated equipment. Therefore, in the store you will have to use other techniques that indirectly determine the quality of the weight deflection of the skis.

So, you've come to the store... Let's assume that you have already decided on the style of skiing, price range and, possibly, models of skis.

The course of action may be as follows:

1. Look for a few pairs of skis that suit your length. For classic skis, the length should be the height of the skier + 25-30 cm, for skating, the height of the skier + 10-15 cm.

2. Check ski geometry. (If they are crooked, then further procedures do not make sense, put them aside). At the same time, do not rely entirely on the reputation of a well-known brand. "Trust but verify". Look along the ski from the side of the sliding surface. The ski should not be curved in the longitudinal direction (the groove should be straight), there should not be a "screw" - the lines across the toe and heel of the sliding surface should be parallel.

Turn the ski sideways, look along - the sliding surface should have a uniform smooth bend without bumps, depressions or sharp bends.

3. Pick up skis according to stiffness.
For classics, the most correct definition of stiffness is this: find approximately the centers of gravity for each ski (hold the ski with two fingers by the sidewalls). Lay them parallel to each other on a FLAT floor with a sliding surface (if the store allows you to do this, take newspapers just in case). If the skis are straight geometry, that is, the width of the ski is the same along the entire length (not side cut), and the sidewall is flat (the skis are not made using CAP (cap) technology), then it’s easy to check the floor - put the ski on its side, it should fit snugly against semi. Then stand on the skis with both feet so that the centers of gravity are at the beginning of the toes of the boots. And then I quote the "Short course of the Skiing discipline" of the RGAFK: "Suitable skis, taking into account the weight of the athlete, are those skis whose sliding surfaces are under the cargo part (a distance of 3-5 cm below the heel of the boot and 10-15 cm above the mount (which means about 20 cm from the toe of the boot)) do not touch the floor when the skier is standing on them with both feet. In the event that the skier transfers his body weight to one of the skis, the entire sliding surface of the ski must be in contact with the floor. " In practice, this is easy to check - one person is on skis, and the second leads under the block with a thin sheet of paper. When you are standing on both skis, the places where the paper stops moving determine the boundaries of the block. If you transfer the weight to one ski, then the piece of paper under the boot should not move, the ski will press it to the floor. Then transfer the weight to the second ski, it should also press the sheet to the floor. The check with a sheet of paper can be done by one person, just make sure that the weight is evenly distributed on both skis when determining the length of the last.

If conditions do not allow using this method, then approximately determine the stiffness as follows: carefully fold the skis with the sliding surface towards each other and squeeze them with one hand 3 cm below the center of gravity. There should be a gap of about 1-1.5 mm between the skis (the strength of the hand approximately corresponds to the weight of a person, but squeezing the skis with one hand is not very convenient). Just keep in mind that the strength of the hand does not necessarily correspond to your weight (for example, if you regularly exercise the brush with an expander).

Large stores sometimes have special stands for checking skis. In this case, you can ask to use such a stand, saying your weight.

The famous skier, world champion Alexander Zavyalov describes another "folk" way to determine the stiffness. The average person (not a gymnast or a weightlifter) should crush the skis with both hands until the sliding plastic under the block completely touches. If it doesn’t crush, then the skis are definitely tough for him.

For skating ski gap when compressed with one hand should be more - 1.5 - 2 mm. And if you determine on the floor with a piece of paper, then under the very boot the piece of paper should move a little or be easily pulled out if you transferred the weight to one ski.

If you didn’t manage to pick up classic skis in terms of stiffness - those that are were a bit soft, then you can calmly look at the skis a little longer. As a rule, the longer the skis, the stiffer they are. For example, the Fisher company in mass models generally switched to a direct dependence of the length of skis on the weight of the skier. Of course, such a number will not work with skating skis, and for classic skis, the length is not so critical.

Please note that beginners and children can take relatively soft skis, because without good technique they will not be able to fully push on hard skis. (Meaning soft within reasonable limits, that is, a little softer than the described methods dictate, and not those that can be squeezed with two fingers.)

Then check the uniform compression of the skis. Thus, you indirectly check the quality of the weight deflection, which mainly determines the ski performance. Squeezing the ski with both hands 3-5 cm below the center of gravity, look at the uniformity of compression - the gap above and below should decrease in proportion to the force and evenly. Usually ski toes are slightly softer than heels, so at first the gap between the ski toes decreases faster than between the heels, this is normal. As a result, the gap under the block, approximately at the place of compression, should disappear last. In this case, the skis should fit snugly against each other throughout, there should not be a gap between them. Ski socks should not diverge as they are compressed. In addition, each of the skis should bend the same way. (It happens that the skis are not matched for stiffness and at full compression one is slightly flexed and the other is arched.) After bending, you should have the feeling that the tip and tail of the ski meet the definition of "elastic".

Here is a useful excerpt from I. Kuzmin's article "To Parents of Growing Skiers" in PM No. 8:
Typical cases of not very good skis:

• The ski is compressed with noticeable effort from the very beginning.
• At first, the ski compresses very easily, and then a “stop” occurs; with such a ski, with repeated frequent compression, you can hear a knock in the front of the block.
• With strong compression by the owner, the skis are in contact under the block.
• With strong compression by the owner, a gap of more than 2 mm remains under the block (except for skis on ice).
  (This refers to a one-handed squeeze.)

(In general, when selecting skis, it is preferable to use hand compression first - this way you can quickly select several suitable pairs, at the same time checking the uniformity of compression. And then, if possible, finally select your pair with a piece of paper, or by checking them more meticulously.)

4. Check the coincidence of the centers of gravity. Determine the center of gravity of each ski from the pair. Then fold the skis together, the heels of the skis in line. The centers of gravity should ideally match, but a discrepancy of the order of 1-1.5 cm is not fatal. (When you set up the bindings, you will have to determine the center of gravity more precisely, for example, by placing the ski on the back of a knife or the end of a thin ruler.)

5. Check the sliding surface. It should not be concave or convex in diameter, but must be flat, with the exception of the groove.

Otherwise, ski preparation will be very difficult - the iron and scraper will not adhere to the entire surface of the ski. (Slight deviations can be corrected. To do this, the ski will need to be cycled, which requires experience and a ski machine.) To check, put a flat object at the beginning, in the middle and at the end of the ski, it should fit snugly against the sliding surface.

There should be no obvious and major damage to the plastic - pits, bumps, delamination, etc. . Small flaws - small scratches, burrs are not as important as the weight deflection (diagram or stiffness). You can close your eyes to this (and you can fix it). In addition, the skis do not have to be completely smooth. A smooth ski glides worse. Therefore, almost all skis have a "structure" on the sliding surface - a roughness specially applied at the factory. Burrs along the edges of new skis are removed with a fine sandpaper with light movements from the toe to the heel of the ski. And scratches will appear in any case after the first months of skiing.

6. After a pair of skis have successfully passed these checks, you can finally look at their finish.

If you, nevertheless, could not find a suitable pair in this store or among these models and brands, then take note of the following:

The STC factory uses light wood such as poplar or aspen for the production of skis, and the load is mainly carried by laminate plates and fiberglass. Therefore, the skis are mostly soft. When I was looking for inexpensive STC (Madshus branded) training classic skis for my weight of 60 kg, I tried more than 15 pairs, and settled on one that was 5 cm longer than necessary, which had a small bubble of plastic on the tip of the ski, and a few cosmetic imperfections. But they did have the toughness. As a result, I removed the bubble with a sandpaper, and the skis turned out to be very successful. STC also produces cheap skis under the brands Peltonen and Karhu. In addition, STC skis are also hiding behind sonorous names like Viking, Sable, Magnum.

Karelia (Sorsu) and Tisza skis are usually stiffer, they use stronger wood, but these skis are heavier than STC products in the same price range. Among these brands, you are more likely to pick up skis if you are above average weight. The yew of 2001 is made very culturally, but it is also expensive.

If funds allow, then you can safely take the products of well-known brands - Fisher, Atomic, Madchus, Rossignol, etc. Among skis costing 80-100 dollars, there is less variation in parameters and an easier choice. But all the main selection steps must be repeated with such skis.

Choice of ski boots

If funds allow, then take shoes with Rotefella NNN or Salomon SNS soles. This is much more convenient than the old systems with welts. Of course, mounting these systems is not cheap. But they are worth it. If it seems to you that your budget will not allow you to spend 40-50 dollars on racing mounts, then be aware that there are excellent walking mounts that cost 20-25 dollars. The price range for boots ranges from about $50 for touring boots to about $200 for racing boots. As with skis, hiking boots are versatile and made from cheaper materials. Actually, boots have little effect on skiing speed, so chasing top models is not necessary. But if you intend to try your hand at skating style, then take models for skating, with a high rigid cuff that wraps around the ankle. Or combined, similar in appearance to skating, but with the ability to remove the plastic cuff, after which you can run classics in them. Specialized mid-range models will cost more than touring boots. When choosing, pay attention primarily to the comfort of the boot. Different manufacturers use different lasts, one may be perfect for your feet. You can take shoes from models from previous seasons - they are much cheaper with almost the same quality, except that not all sizes remain. For skiing in the forest, hiking boots are suitable, for example, Rossignol X1 - X4, or Alpina and Salomon of the same level. Only take bindings under the appropriate sole (NNN or SNS). Shoes with such a sole, in fact, have only one drawback. If you walk a lot in them on asphalt, then the plastic of the sole on the toe of the boot is erased almost to the metal bracket that enters the groove of the mounts. Most likely, the bracket will not be able to fall out - it is quite deeply embedded in the sole, but the strength characteristics of the seal will deteriorate, and the shoes will lose their presentation. Craftsmen use various ways to protect expensive boots if it is not possible to wear them next to the ski track. One option is rubber overshoes worn over boots. Better galoshes with a soft cloth inside. Just rubber ones leave marks on a light boot or peel off paint. When I arrive at the place, I take off my galoshes, put them in a plastic bag so that snow does not accumulate in them, and bury them in the snow under some kind of Christmas tree. I dress up on the way back. The second method is described in PM #16. A piece of rubber tube/hose with an inner diameter approximately corresponding to the diameter of the bracket and a length equal to the length of the open part of the bracket is cut in a spiral and put on (wound) on the bracket. Before putting on the skis, the tube is removed and placed in a pocket.

Choice of ski poles

Most modern poles are made from carbon fiber and fiberglass in varying proportions. Sticks made of 100% carbon fiber are light and tough, but they cost several times more than fiberglass ones (up to $200). Accordingly, 100% fiberglass sticks are not as rigid, bend and break more easily, and weigh a little more. Mid-range poles can be made from a mixture of fiberglass and carbon fiber. The higher the percentage of fiberglass, the cheaper the sticks. Fiberglass is quite suitable for children and beginners who do not have great strength and weight.

Plastic (composite) sticks sometimes break. This can happen when falling on a stick or when relying on a stick with all your weight when you lose balance, though not always. I had to break cheap fiberglass sticks even with a strong push - I didn’t hit the axis of the stick with force - and that's it.

If your weight is high, then take stronger sticks with a higher percentage of carbon fiber. Or aluminum. They have little in common with those aluminum bending sticks with large rings that were produced about 10-20 years ago. Modern aluminum poles look the same as composite poles.

Domestic sticks produced by STC have proven themselves well (they are also produced as inexpensive Madshus, Karhu - different stickers, see http://stc-ski.ru/content/view/29/45/lang,ru/) and UEIP (Ural Electro Chemical plant). For an amateur, Balakovo sticks are also a good choice, they are cheaper, but their quality is good (produced under the Volzhanka brand). Decent domestic sticks cost from 300-400 rubles.

Ski waxing

First, a few words for those who are completely ignorant of ski lubrication. There are two main types of lubricants: sliding lubricants and holding lubricants. For a classic course, the nose and heel of the ski are lubricated with glide lubricants, usually paraffins. And the central part of the ski (block) is lubricated with a holding ointment so that there is no recoil. The length of the block is approximately 50 cm from the heel of the boot placed in the mount, forward to the toe of the ski. For beginners, you can lengthen the block by another 10-15 cm to the toe of the ski. (I have heard how people were advised that there should be no recoil to smear the back (!!!) of the ski.)

Skis for skating are lubricated along the entire length with glide lubricants.

The choice and purchase of lubricants and lubrication tools depends on how you intend to ride. If the main goal is hiking on weekends, then the arsenal of funds and, most importantly, the time spent on preparing skis are greatly reduced. If you are going to race, then you will have to invest money and precious time.

If you've read Swix's or other companies' materials on ski preparation, you can estimate how long it will take minimal professional preparation of one pair: cleaning with soft paraffin (application, removal with a plastic scraper, brushing), then applying 1-2 layers of weather paraffin (application, cooling the ski to room temperature for at least 10 minutes), removal with a plastic scraper, brushing, polishing) . That is, for half an hour at least you will be messing with one pair. Plus, additional "pleasures" - the smell (though not strong), scraped paraffin on the floor. If you have carpets on the floor - the end of the carpets. Once a friend and I prepared skis at his house, rolled up the carpet, then, of course, removed everything, but some remnants of paraffin, apparently, remained on the floor, and the carpet began to slide wildly ... I remember the kind words of his wife ... In short, we need a place where to turn around and not disturb anyone for at least 30-40 minutes, otherwise the remnants of paraffin will be smashed with their feet throughout the apartment, especially in winter, when, due to dryness and static electricity, these remnants strive to stick to everything. It happens that while you are fiddling with the preparation, all the desire to ride disappears at home. This is only for "turned" fanatic skiers. Fortunately, there are alternative options, cheap and good in terms of results, which will be written about in the following sections.

In order to have an idea about the process of professional ski preparation, read A. Grushin's article "How to prepare skis?" from the magazine "Ski racing" No. 5. Or pick up the SWIX Nordic ski preparation brochure from Fischer.

Ski waxes

Lubricants come in a variety of types. Most often, paraffins are used, and in professional sports accelerators (powders or pressed), emulsions, pastes, etc. are also used. Such lubricants are quite expensive, and are consumed quickly enough. Therefore, if you are not going to race professionally, then do not take expensive imported lubricants. In most cases, domestic ones are no worse, and often better (except that some go faster than imported ones). The shelf life of paraffins is practically unlimited. But it doesn't make sense to take too much. And many different brands and types are also not needed - the problem of choice inevitably arises - which is better for today's weather ... In professional lubrication, this is solved by hauling paraffins, but lovers do not need to torture themselves with a choice.

If the climate in the area where you live is humid, then you are better off buying fluorinated paraffins. For example, for Moscow, where air humidity in winter is most often above 50%. If the humidity is usually below 50%, then you will be fine with fluorine-free paraffins.

From inexpensive domestic ones, we can mention Uktus, Luch, VISTI, MVIS, FESTA paraffins. For Moscow, you can take the MVIS Marathon kit - it will suit you perfectly. (These greases are rolled back just in the Moscow region, and they go well there). It is inexpensive (almost 50-60 rubles), and rolls well in most cases. This is a set of light fluoride paraffins (with a small amount of fluorine) for three temperature ranges. It is also worth taking pills - the MVIS accelerator. They have for sunny weather No. 238 for a temperature of -9 + 5, it lasts up to 100 km. It is not often sunny weather, in which it is really good, but it will go on cloudy, although worse. In my opinion, its main advantage for an amateur is the ease of application and durability of the lubricant. Once smeared in a cold way - you can ride for a month. It costs about 350 rubles, but it is spent very economically - enough for many years.

For humid climates, fluorinated gels, pastes, sprays, or emulsions are good. Apply to a sliding surface with a cotton swab or spray, dry or warm with a hair dryer, then polish. Fast and convenient. Disadvantages: expensive, quickly consumed, last up to 10-15 km.

Ski waxes

Holding ointments are solid (in jars) and liquid (in tubes). The holding ointment must meet two requirements. First - the ointment should allow you to push. When pushing under the block, additional pressure is created on the snow, and snow crystals enter the layer of holding ointment, the ski "sticks" to the snow, which allows you to push. After the push, the crystals should come out of the ointment, which will allow the ski to glide. When a skier glides on one ski, the pressure under the block is also present, but at the same time, the ointment should allow one to slide on one ski and "brake" only at the moment of push. Therefore, the selection of the optimal holding ointment, which provides the best combination of holding and sliding, is not an easy task in professional sports. Alternation of layers of different ointments is used, their imposition in a checkerboard pattern and other techniques.

Lovers can be smeared easier. In order not to fool my head, I will give the most simple rule: for most sub-zero weather conditions and inexpensive holding ointments (Uktus, MVIS, VISTI, inexpensive (without fluorine) imported SWIX, START, RODE, etc.) you need to put an ointment, the lower temperature limit the range of which is 3-4 degrees higher than the current temperature. For example, if now -5, then put the ointment -1 + 1 or -2-0. Since the condition of the snow, and hence the holding, depends not only on temperature, but also on air humidity, wind, old or new snow, and even the region, always take a plastic rubbing (the so-called "cork") and a warmer ointment with you and colder than the one that was smeared at home. If you do not get into the ointment, then if it slows down too much - put a colder one on top, it does not hold well - warmer. (To improve grip, you can also lengthen the lubrication zone of the pad forward towards the tip of the ski.) Get lubed in a couple of minutes, and you will be happy to ride the rest of the time. Since snow is different everywhere, for a particular region this rule can be adjusted in terms of the value of the shift in the temperature of the ointment relative to the air temperature. Don't be afraid to experiment and you'll quickly find the best fit.

For an amateur, 3-4 jars of ointment are enough, covering the temperature range from +3 to -15 degrees. If you are smearing at home, then before applying a new holding ointment, it is advisable to remove the remnants of the old ointment with a plastic scraper. It is better to apply the ointment in 2-3 thin layers, rubbing each with a cork.

Liquid ointments are often called klisters. The klister is applied in a thin strip on both sides of the groove and leveled with a plastic scraper (it is difficult to do in the cold, it is better at home).

Klister may be needed for positive temperatures. But he gets very dirty. Before you put your skis in a bag when you go skiing, wrap them in plastic so as not to ruin the bag. In addition, after skiing, the klister thaws and if the skis are vertical, then it begins to slowly flow down them. So after skiing, it is better to remove the klister immediately with a wash (gasoline, or even a scraper and a dry rag).

In sub-zero temperatures, solid ointments usually work well. But under certain weather conditions, you may encounter some problems:

• Podlip. At transient temperatures (about 0 degrees) and with fresh, especially falling, snow, you may encounter a "stick" - the snow will stick to the ointment and turn into a thick snowball under the block.
• Icing (freezing) of the ointment. At negative temperatures (more often at transitional temperatures of -2 -0, but it also happens at -25), "icing" of the ointment may begin - snow crystals, instead of completely leaving the ointment layer after a push, begin to break off, leaving the tips in the ointment, and on an ice crust appears on its surface. More often this is due to the fact that the ointment is softer (warmer) than necessary. It can also happen if you start skiing right after leaving the house, when the skis are even warmer than the surrounding air. If the air temperature is below 0 degrees, but the snowflakes on the ski turn into water, it’s too early to ski. In addition, the uncooled ointment can quickly come off. Allow skis (and wax) to cool to ambient temperature for 10-15 minutes.
• The condition of the snow in the track and outside it can be different, so the ointment, which allowed you to roll normally in the track, can slow down a lot when leaving it. You can also feel the difference in grip and glide when riding in sunny areas and in shady areas such as in the woods.

Necessary tools for preparing skis and their substitutes

Now about the necessary set of tools. If you look at the SWIX (or another company) manual for preparing skis, it seems that you need to additionally purchase a whole suitcase of all kinds of tools and materials for skis. For professional ski training, this is really necessary. But an amateur can get by with a much more modest set of tools.

If you take skis with a racing base (sometimes called a sliding surface), which is made of high molecular weight sintered plastic, then the main tool is a ski iron, the rest can be depicted from improvised means. The fact is that a household iron has a very large hysteresis loop at the thermostat - paraffin either smokes or barely melts. And at a high temperature, you automatically burn out the base (sliding surface), that is, you melt the pores, and the paraffin stops being absorbed into the base. And the point of buying expensive skis disappears (see Steve Poulin's article "Use the iron correctly" in PM # ...). A good ski iron can be bought for $60-70.

New skis, regardless of whether you later use hot paraffin wax or not, it is still better to process using an iron for the first time. In extreme cases, you can get by with a household iron (just don’t ruin a good one, take an old condo one, without holes in the sole). In this case, be careful - have a large damp cloth handy. If suddenly the paraffin smokes, you can quickly reduce the temperature of the soleplate of the iron by applying a rag to it and avoid burning the plastic. Primary treatment is performed with soft plus paraffin without fluorine, the melting point of which is 65-75 degrees, which also reduces the risk of burnout. Set the temperature regulator of the iron to the minimum at which the paraffin melts normally, and begin to warm up the ski, moving the iron smoothly and without pressure from the toe to the heel of the ski. Make sure that it does not overheat, and that there is a layer of paraffin between the iron and the ski all the time. It is better to lead a household iron sideways, with a wide part of the sole. This option is suitable if you do not plan to constantly apply paraffins with an iron.

• Plastic scraper for removing excess paraffin. You can buy a branded one for 3-4 dollars, or you can replace it with a piece of a transparent school ruler, plexiglass, etc. 2-4 mm thick. In this case, you need to do the following: put a fine sandpaper on a flat surface with the abrasive up, and trim the ruler on the sandpaper so that the edges are sharp and straight, and there are no burrs and bumps. In addition, grind the corners of the ruler on the skin in a semicircle (the edges should remain sharp). Fit these corners to the groove of your skis so you can skim the wax out of the groove later. If you have several pairs of skis, then adjust the angles for different pairs. Look in the store for branded scrapers to get an idea of ​​\u200b\u200bwhat should come out in the end.
• Nylon brush, used to remove paraffin residue after removing it with a scraper. If you will be using a hot wax application, then a brush that is hard enough is essential. For this, I had to use household brushes such as "ironing" or a hand brush with stiff nylon bristles. "Sand is an unimportant substitute for oats," but you can also remove excess paraffin.
• Coarse Fibertex (fibertex), for example, SWIX T265 - is needed when preparing new skis to remove lint from plastic remaining after machine grinding of the sliding surface. (Actually, the residual nap will come off on its own after a few months of riding). Fibertex is not too expensive. Approximately the same in appearance household abrasive plates may contain not such an abrasive, and only add a pile. But there are also almost complete analogues. But to buy it or not to buy ... Probably not necessary.
• Fiberlene (fiberlen) - non-woven material used for the final polishing of skis. In general, it is not needed, you can polish the skis with an old nylon stocking. Or a piece of felt. Finally, an old woolen sock.
• Sanding paper SWIX No. 100, used for sanding classic ski lasts, so that the wax adheres better. Need not. Any household skin will do the appropriate grit. In general, sanding under the block is necessary if you run more than 20-30 km or on ice.
• Razor scraper Swix T-89, used to remove the pile - the amateur does not need it.
• Metal cycle. It is unlikely that you will scrape yourself - the process requires skill, and, most importantly, a ski machine in which the ski is rigidly attached. Modern skis are produced with an applied structure, which should not be scraped. The cycle is only needed to remove burnt plastic. And spoiling a ski during scraping is as easy as shelling pears - a hand trembled - and here is a wave or a scratch. Lovers don't need it.
• Knurling is used to apply structure to a sliding surface. Lovers don't need it. A universal structure applied at the factory is sufficient.
• A copper brush is needed to remove frosty paraffins. If you are willing to put up with a slight loss of glide by using a warmer wax, you don't need it. If you apply hard frosty paraffin, you will have to take it. Or use a gel or frost accelerator that applies in a very thin layer and does not require the use of a stiff brush.
• Wash, used to remove the holding ointment under the block. Also suitable for washing off the sliding paraffin, if it is not possible to use hot cleaning of the skis. Preferably. This is generally a useful thing in everyday life - that she just did not have to clean it off.
• Rubbing (cork), used for leveling holding ointments. Plastic is better suited for ointments. Cork can be used to apply accelerators. Will definitely be needed.

Additional ski accessories

Another desirable item is a ski bag. Firstly, there will be somewhere to store skis, and, most importantly, you will not get dirty with holding ointment while you get to the ski track. It is very difficult to clean it from clothes without a solvent or wash. Good domestic covers cost from 200 rubles. Take a cover for 2-3 pairs. It holds both skis and poles.

It's a good idea to take Velcro ski bundles. There is less risk that the sliding surface of the ski during transportation will be damaged by poles or bindings of another pair. If you go to the ski track not far, then in this case you can carry skis without a case. O Skis that are tied together are harder to get dirty. The skis are tied in such a way that the soft lining of the ligament is between the sliding surfaces of the skis, they should not touch.

Rags. To process the skis, you will need old cotton rags. They wipe the sole of the iron dry after applying paraffins, clean the scrapers and other tools, remove the holding ointment using a wash, brush off the paraffin residues after passing through with a scraper and brushes, and so on. Even polishing the ski after applying paraffins, at worst, can be done with a rag without strong pressure.

How to store skis

Since most ski models, especially mass-produced ones, use wood, you should not store your skis near heat sources or on a sunny balcony. My friend put a bag with skis on a glazed balcony on the sunny side for the summer. And one pair of skis "led", it's good that it was inexpensive. Lubricants should also not be stored near heat sources or in the sun.

Simplified ski lubrication technologies

You can read about the intricacies of applying lubricants in a hot way (using a ski iron) in Steve Paulin's article "Use the iron correctly" from HP No. ... In particular, he does not recommend the use of household irons for this purpose - you can easily burn through the plastic of expensive skis. But you can apply slip lubricants without an iron.

You can try this method (experimented): take a metal bucket with a lid, say, a liter. It should not be enamelled, but a purely metal ladle with a smooth, even bottom, preferably aluminum - it has high thermal conductivity. Boil water, pour 2/3 of the ladle, no more, so as not to accidentally scald. Close the pot with a lid to avoid getting burned by the steam. This combination will replace the iron when using soft paraffins during the initial processing of skis or when lubricating with heat and a slight minus. As a rule, such paraffins have a melting point well below 100 degrees Celsius. Paraffin should be previously rubbed with a thick layer on the sliding surface, and the ski should lie horizontally, with the sliding surface up, for example, on two stools.

Boiling water and a well-conducting ladle are enough to melt low-melting paraffin. Of course, you can’t put frosty paraffin in this way, but there will be a 100% guarantee against burning the base. Change the water as it cools down. Make several slow passes from the toe to the end of the ski. But keep in mind that this method has a significant drawback - you can accidentally turn the ladle over and scald. Therefore, for permanent use, it is still better to purchase a ski iron.

One more way. Paraffin can be applied by intensive rubbing. First of all, clean the ski. If there is a clear layer of old paraffin on the ski, then lightly go through with a plastic scraper and / or a nylon brush. Rub a clean ski with a very thin continuous layer of paraffin bar (this is convenient to control by looking at the reflection of the ski from the window). Not even necessarily a completely continuous layer. Then take a cork rub and rub it intensively in both directions for 1-2 minutes. The generated heat is enough to partially fuse the paraffin into the base. Then go lightly brushing from the toe to the heel of the ski. The time spent is minimal. There is practically no dirt, the machine is not required. On normal snow will keep at least 10 km.

There is such a thing - thermal rubbing from the TOKO company - this is a piece of dense felt with a fine structure, glued to sponge rubber. This combination allegedly generates enough heat to apply the accelerators cold. It is imitated by an insole made of dense synthetic felt wrapped around a small flat piece of wood. It can also be used as an alternative to cork rubbing when applying paraffins in a cold way.

What ski wax to buy for ski preparation

Depending on the level of your training and the thickness of your wallet, there are three sets of lubricants that are enough for skiing.

Minimum.

This kit will be enough for you to comfortably walk through the forest on plastic skis without recoil and sticking. It is not necessary to buy paraffins, irons, brushes and other tools. It is quite enough to buy a set of holding ointments (for example, VISTI or Sviks) and smear the skis only under the block, rubbing them with a cork so that there is no recoil. For walks, believe me, this is quite enough, the skis will glide even without paraffin.

Here is what is included in the required minimum kit:

3 - 4 jars (briquettes) holding ointment covering a temperature range from 0 to -15 degrees (adjust depending on the region), and one cork or synthetic rub.

Ointments and rubbing will cost you 100 - 200 rubles. If money allows, buy an additional plastic scraper (about 90 rubles) and a bottle of branded wash (about 300 rubles). However, about the scraper and its substitutes was written above. You can do without flushing. As without it at all, that is, remove the old ointment with a scraper, and replacing it with a bottle of kerosene or gasoline. (To clean the skis clean, which, in general, is completely optional, you can use a piece of cotton wool soaked in gasoline. And the main "household" advantage of the wash is the absence of a strong smell.)

Just please keep in mind that with such a lubricant (solid ointments) you should not go on the ski track at above zero temperatures, because with a plus you will need liquid holding ointments (klisters).

Sufficient.

This kit will allow you to competently and fully care for your skis. This kit is enough for the eyes not only for comfortable riding through the forest in any weather, but also to participate in most mass ski races such as "Ski Track of Russia". It includes the same as in the minimum kit, plus a set of inexpensive paraffins, an iron, a brush, a wash can, a plastic scraper, a set of inexpensive liquid ointments. Such a kit will cost a more substantial amount - from 3000 rubles. It is highly desirable to add a special ski machine to this kit - it will allow you not only to prepare your skis very decently, but also to enjoy this process. (If you wish, you can make the machine yourself from improvised pieces of wood, scraps of a tourist rug or something similar, and a few pieces of iron and screws to secure the skis).

Advanced.

This kit may be needed by a rather advanced and trained skier, so that in many respects the following information may already be known to him from previous publications in "LS", from a coach or from some other sources. However, we provide this list. To all of the above, you can add a set of holding ointments with fluorine content(solid and liquid), as well as paraffins with fluorine content(This lubricant is especially effective in high humidity conditions). You can also buy anti-static paraffins (needed to remove static electricity from the sliding surface of the skis), accelerators (powdered and pure fluorocarbons in the form of tablets), knurling (to apply a weather-appropriate structure to the sliding surface), sprays and emulsions. Also, keep in mind that advanced skiers try to have lubricants from different companies in their arsenal, since ointments often from completely different manufacturers work well in different weather. In general, this kit is already for an advanced skier, and its cost increases many times compared to the cost of the first two kits combined.

When choosing cross-country skis in a store, you must definitely take into account the level of training and the style you plan to run - classic or skate. So it turns out that different styles require different inventory. There are, of course, universal cross-country skis, but in any case, if they are chosen for the classic course, you can no longer skate on them and vice versa. For professionals, these are, of course, incompatible concepts, an amateur can choose station wagons, but choose the right length and stiffness.

If finances allow, buy 2 sets, no - one for the classics. Skating tracks are specially prepared, there are very few of them in the suburbs. A classic ski track can be found in any park, even in the city, and outside the city you can lay it yourself.

Varieties of cross-country skiing

Cross-country skiing is divided by purpose into:

Racing (Racing or Racing PRO)

Designed for professional athletes and lovers of high speeds. Used only on specially prepared tracks.

Amateur or pleasure (Active, Fitness)

The best option for a Sunday walk in the park or in the nearest forest. They are inexpensive, made from budget materials. Skis are wider than racing ones, not suitable for high speed - a measured step.

Tourist (Back Country)

All-terrain vehicles in the world of cross-country skiing are designed not only for prepared tracks, but also for wet or loose snow, off-road, deadwood, etc. Wider than walking ones, very durable, the main task is to withstand the weight of a person on any snow.

Cross-country skiing also differs in style:

Skate (Skate or Sk)

Short with a smooth last so that nothing interferes with the movement. Before you pick up your skating cross-country skis, measure your height and add 5-10 cm to it, the size will fit perfectly.

Shoes are also chosen accordingly, the task of which is to hold the foot firmly, but not cause excessive stress. A special plastic cuff is provided for fixation.

Classic (Classic or Cl)

Longer than skating, they have a sharp toe and a soft block. There may be notches (TR) under the last to prevent slipping at the moment of repulsion. To choose the size of classic skis, add 20 cm to your height or simply raise your hand: the lowered palm of the outstretched hand should touch the top of the ski.

Boots for the classics are soft, low without fixing clips. In size, they should be 1.5-2 cm larger so that the toes do not rest against the toe.

Universal (Combi)

Longer than skating, but shorter than classic. Suitable for those who plan to be both a skater and a classic move. To determine the desired length, add 15 cm to the height. The most interesting moment with notches is that station wagons for this have a removable middle with notches. You need a classic - you expose the middle ones, you remove the ridge ones.

There are also separate categories, for example, Extra cross-country skiing with a recoil device, the so-called. birds. Designed to increase the speed of running on a knurled track. In the design, a recoil device, consisting of brackets fixed on the underside of the mounts with spring-loaded pins hinged to them, which do not impose restrictions on any movements of the skier. The special design and stroke increase the repulsion force and make running easier. The cost is from 50,000 rubles.

Chose mainly for flat terrain. For beginners, classic ones with a notch are best, and for advanced ones, universal ones with a removable middle.

Fischer Ridge Crown

Walking shoe for 2017-2018 with improved Easy Kick Wax construction and optimized last area. New technologies ensure earlier contact of the wax with the snow, eliminate ski slip and improve skiing technique.

Fischer Ridge Crown

The Air Channel inner core, which has a system of air channels in its structure, is highly durable and lightweight, and has optimal weight distribution. The sliding surface undergoes a universal Ultra Tuning treatment, which allows you to get excellent glide. Fisher have a Double Crown notch system that provides excellent hold in the instep. Geometry 51-49-50.

In the 2018-2018 collection, skate shoes received an update in the form of a bright design and an even more elastic hard last. The model is suitable for both amateur beginners and experienced skiers on prepared slopes.

The design uses Fischer's patented Air Channel core technology. Structurally, these are optimized air channels in the light wood species, which make it possible to lighten the skis as much as possible, make them elastic and torsionally rigid. The new versatility structure provides the best glide in all weather conditions over a wide range of temperatures and track conditions.

The design provides excellent running both on the prepared track and on soft loose snow. Special heel inserts reinforce construction and increase durability. The model uses a special reinforcement of the Power Edge edges, which guarantees high torsional rigidity. Size in the collection from 172 cm to 197 cm.

Universal plastic skis with a notch for beginners and outdoor enthusiasts. The notch prevents kickback when moving. Fiberglass reinforcement and re-glued wood of the last (in the middle where the boots are attached) give the product high strength and reliability. The sliding surface is made of inexpensive plastic (polyethylene), so the price is so low (1300 rubles per pair).

According to their purpose, these skis are more of a touring ski for a classic course. It’s bad to ride them with a “skate” move, because the “step” notch under the ski block will slow down sliding, but with a classic move you can ride in any weather without additional lubrication and not be afraid of “shooting back” when pushing. By the way, this particular model is distinguished by a very tenacious “toothy” notch.

They have a shorter length and softness necessary for shock absorption of the relief. To choose the right model for children, it is necessary to take into account its weight:

• for those whose weight is less than 20 kg, a length of 70 cm is suitable;
• 20-30 kg - 90 cm;
• 30-40 kg - 100 cm.

It is worth choosing "fitted" models, they are easier to manage.

The lightweight design makes the Ultrasonic skates a great choice for young beginner riders. They are used for training and competition on different types of tracks. The reinforced design of the Torsion CAP makes it extremely versatile, but it is still primarily a skating piece designed for downhill skiing.

Madshus Ultrasonic Skate JR Junior Ski XC

The Multicore wood core gives the ski maximum strength and responsiveness. There is no notch system, Polytex sliding surface. Compatible with NIS mounts, NIS platform. Hardness is average.

Designed for children of senior preschool and primary school age for sports skating. Made of plastic/polycarbonate using GAIM technology - gas-filled injection molding, increases strength and rigidity.

Flexible, sliding surface does not require lubrication. The runners are provided with an anti-recoil notch. Aluminum poles are reinforced with a metal tip that allows you to cling even to hard snow or ice. Among the advantages is the universal plastic mount "Cycle" for everyday shoes (size 28 to 36), which firmly fixes the foot.

Geometry: PARALLEL 50. Combined riding style. Age from 5 to 11 years.

Classic junior skis for mastering the technique of skiing, for physical education at school and walking on a prepared track. Rostovka: 180-210, 180-215, 100-170 cm. Profile: 55-50-5251-49-50.

The design uses Fischer's patented Air Channel core technology. These are optimized air channels in light wood species, which allow maximum lightening of weight, making it elastic and torsionally rigid. Synthetic base and Ultra Tuning sanding ensure optimum glide in all weather conditions. There are no notches, you need to use holding ointments

These models are softer and more comfortable, the design is in line with modern trends, which, together with the quality of workmanship and full functionality, makes them very attractive.

Professional skating skis designed for competition. Thanks to the Nomex Honeycomb core, Active Cap construction, and Extended Edge technology, Rossignol significantly lightens the weight and ensures high energy transfer and competition-level accuracy.

Rossignol X-ium Skating WC Women NIS

The use of a shorter, lower nose increases agility, while Double Groove Guide technology enhances stability. Thanks to the universal camber profile of the X-ium WC skis, they are suitable for skiing on any snow. There are notches. Mounting type X-Celerator Skate NIS. Compatible with the NIS mount locking system.

Sporty classic, designed for maximum stability and control. The model is lightweight with a low deflection of the "heel-toe" concept, which provides excellent repulsion and glide.

The G2 sliding surface is designed for all weather conditions and requires minimal preparation, contains 7.5% graphite. The stiffness of the pad is specially reduced to make it easier to move. Suitable for beginners and beginners. S-Cut sidecut geometry. Construction: Heel Toe, Digital Dynamic Flex Control. Densolite 2000 core. Performance Universal base grinding. Weight 1.35 kg.

Despite the rather high price (8450 rubles), this is the most popular model among women for beginners and with an initial level of training. Even if you do not take into account the design, a huge plus is the design, taking into account the specific requirements of women.

Premium Crown notches, NIS mount platform. They are selected exactly in height, but taking into account the weight according to the table. The sliding surface is treated with ULTRA TUNING, which greatly reduces grip and ensures literally flight. Wood core AIR CHANNEL - a system of air channels in the structure of a wooden core using fiberglass, characterized by strength and optimal weight distribution. A whole system has been thought out - a combination of single (Single) and double (Double) notches, so that the skis not only glide, but also make it easier to climb and hold on any snow.

Fischer ski selection table by weight

Sports junior models are purchased for training and the first competition. The size is also selected according to the weight of the teenager, and not according to the height as in the adult.

Universal training Atomik for athletes with different levels of training. Do not need lubrication and maintenance during the season. Lightweight yet incredibly strong, the Ultra High Densolite SDS core guarantees low weight and stability.

Atomic Redster C7 Skintec Junior

SkinTec technology provides excellent grip and superior glide in all temperatures and snow conditions. They are not demanding on the repulsion technique, and at the same time they serve perfectly even in the most difficult conditions, such as muddy snow or ice. Recommended user weight up to 60 kg.

Junior racing skate skis with D-Carbon core for improved take-off feel, pro-like fast Zeolit ​​gliding and new livery.

Grinding of the sliding surface of the World Cup Universal, effective in all temperature ranges. The use of DGM - Digital Grinding Measurement allows the most accurate grinding process under the control of digital equipment, which ensures exceptional performance in any snow conditions.

Grinding of the sliding surface Performance Universal Grinding, Protective foil, COMBI surface structure. Parallel geometry: 45/45/45. Weight 980 gr.

Junior for classic and skating. Built with professional technology, lighter with AirChannel wood core and faster with Ultra Tuning synthetic base.

The best choice for mastering the technique of skiing and entry-level classes in sports schools. Size: 157, 162, 167, 172, 177, 182 cm. Maximum weight 54 kg. Geometry 41x44x44 cm. Directional shape.

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