Russian cuisine main dishes. Are there native Russian foods and dishes? Russian national dishes

Russian national cuisine has gone through an extremely long path of development, marked by several major stages, each of which has left an indelible mark. Old Russian cuisine, which developed from the 9th-10th centuries. and reached its greatest prosperity in the XV-XVI centuries, although its formation covers a huge historical period, it is characterized by common features that have largely been preserved to this day.

At the beginning of this period, Russian bread made from sour (yeast) rye dough appeared - this uncrowned king on our table, without it the Russian menu is now unthinkable - and all other important types of Russian bread and flour products also arose: the known to us saiki, bagels, juicy, donuts, pancakes, pancakes, pies, etc. These products were prepared exclusively on the basis of sour dough - so characteristic of Russian cuisine throughout its historical development. The addiction to sour, kvass was also reflected in the creation of Russian real kissels - oatmeal, wheat and rye, which appeared long before modern ones. Mostly berry jelly.

A large place in the menu was also occupied by various gruels and porridges, which were originally considered ritual, solemn food.

All this bread, flour food diversified most of all with fish, mushrooms, forest berries, vegetables, milk, and very rarely - with meat.

By the same time, the appearance of classic Russian drinks - all kinds of honey, kvass, sbitney.

Already in the early period of the development of Russian cuisine, a sharp division of the Russian table into lean (vegetable-fish-mushroom) and fast food (milk-egg-meat) was outlined, which had a huge impact on its further development until the end of the 19th century. The artificial creation of a line between the fast and the fast table, the isolation of some products from others, and the prevention of their mixing ultimately led to the creation of only some original dishes, and the entire menu suffered as a whole - it became more monotonous, simplified.

It can be said that the Lenten table was more fortunate: since most days in the year - from 192 to 216 in different years - were considered Lenten (and these fasts were observed very strictly), it was natural to expand the assortment of the Lenten table. Hence the abundance of mushroom and fish dishes in Russian cuisine, the tendency to use various vegetable raw materials - grains (porridge), vegetables, wild berries and herbs (nettles, gouts, quinoa, etc.). Moreover, such well-known from the tenth century. vegetables like cabbages, turnips, radishes, peas, cucumbers were cooked and eaten - whether raw, salted, steamed, boiled or baked - separately from one another.

Therefore, for example, salads and especially vinaigrettes have never been characteristic of Russian cuisine and appeared in Russia already in the 19th century. as a borrowing from the West. But they were also originally made mainly with one vegetable, giving the corresponding name to the salad - cucumber salad, beetroot salad, potato salad, etc.

Each type of mushroom - milk mushrooms, saffron mushrooms, mushrooms, ceps, morels, stoves (champignons), etc. - was salted or cooked completely separately, which, by the way, is still practiced today. The same can be said about fish, which was consumed boiled, dried, salted, baked, and less often fried. In the literature, we find juicy, "delicious" names of fish dishes: sigovina, taimenin, pike, halibut, catfish, salmon, sturgeon, stellate sturgeon, beluga and others. And the ear could be perch, and ruff, and burbot, and sturgeon, etc.

Thus, the number of dishes by name was huge, but all of them differed little from each other in content. Taste diversity was achieved, firstly, by the difference in heat and cold processing, as well as the use of various oils, mainly vegetable (hemp, nut, poppy, olive, and much later - sunflower), and secondly, the use of spices.

Of the latter, onion, garlic, horseradish, dill were most often used, and in very large quantities, as well as parsley, anise, coriander, bay leaf, black pepper and cloves, which appeared in Russia already in the 10th-11th centuries. Later, in the 15th - early 16th centuries, they were supplemented with ginger, cardamom, cinnamon, calamus (calamus root) and saffron.

In the initial period of the development of Russian cuisine, there was also a tendency to consume liquid hot dishes, which then received the general name "khlebova". The most widespread are such types of bread as cabbage soup, stews based on vegetable raw materials, as well as various mashes, brews, talkers, salomats and other varieties of flour soups.

As for meat and milk, these products were consumed relatively rarely, and their processing was not difficult. Meat, as a rule, was boiled in cabbage soup or porridge, milk was drunk raw, stewed or sour. Dairy products were used to make cottage cheese and sour cream, while the production of cream and butter remained almost unknown for a long time, at least until the 15th-16th centuries. these products appeared rarely, irregularly.

The next stage in the development of Russian cuisine is the period from the middle of the XVI century. until the end of the 17th century. At this time, not only the further development of variants of the lenten and fast meals continues, but the differences between the cuisines of various classes and estates are especially sharply indicated. From that time on, the cuisine of the common people began to become more and more simple, the cuisine of the boyars, the nobility, and especially the nobility, became more and more refined. She collects, combines and generalizes the experience of previous centuries in the field of Russian culinary arts, creates on the basis of it new, more complex versions of old dishes, and for the first time borrows and openly introduces into Russian cuisine a number of foreign dishes and culinary techniques, mainly of Eastern origin.

Particular attention is drawn to the modest festive table of that time. Along with the already familiar corned beef and boiled meat, twisted (that is, cooked on skewers) and fried meat, poultry and game occupy a place of honor on the table of the nobility. The types of meat processing are increasingly differentiated. So, beef goes mainly for cooking corned beef and for boiling (boiled slaughter); ham is made from pork for long-term storage, or it is used as fresh or milk pig in fried and stewed form, and in Russia only meat, lean pork is valued; finally, mutton, poultry and game are used mainly for roasts and only partly (mutton) for stewing.

In the 17th century all the main types of Russian soups finally add up, while kali, hangovers, hodgepodges, pickles, unknown in medieval Russia, appear.

The lenten table of the nobility is also enriched. A prominent place on it begins to be occupied by balyk, black caviar, which was eaten not only salted, but also boiled in vinegar or poppy milk.

Culinary of the 17th century Eastern and, first of all, Tatar cuisine has a strong influence, which is associated with the accession in the second half of the 16th century. to the Russian state of the Astrakhan and Kazan khanates, Bashkiria and Siberia. It was during this period that dishes from unleavened dough (noodles, dumplings), such products as raisins, apricots, figs (figs), as well as lemons and tea, the use of which has since become traditional in Russia, enter Russian cuisine. Thus, the sweet table is significantly replenished.

Next to the gingerbread, known in Russia even before the adoption of Christianity, one could see a variety of gingerbread, sweet pies, candy, candied fruits, numerous jams, not only from berries, but also from some vegetables (carrots with honey and ginger, radish in molasses) . In the second half of the XVII century. they began to bring cane sugar to Russia, from which, together with spices, they cooked candies and snacks, sweets, delicacies, fruits, etc. [The first refinery was founded by the merchant Vestov in Moscow, at the beginning of the 18th century. He was allowed to import cane raw materials duty-free. Sugar factories based on beet raw materials were created only at the end of the 18th - beginning of the 19th centuries. (The first factory was in the village of Alyabyevo, Tula province).] But all these sweet dishes were basically the privilege of the nobility. [The menu of the patriarchal dinner for 1671 already contains sugar and candy.]

For the boyar table, an extraordinary abundance of dishes becomes characteristic - up to 50, and at the royal table their number grows to 150-200. The sizes of these dishes are also huge, for which the largest swans, geese, turkeys, the largest sturgeons or beluga are usually chosen - sometimes they are so large that three or four people lift them. At the same time, there is a desire to decorate dishes. Palaces are built from foodstuffs, fantastic animals of gigantic proportions.

Court dinners turn into a pompous, magnificent ritual that lasts 6-8 hours in a row - from two in the afternoon to ten in the evening - and includes almost a dozen changes, each of which consists of a whole series (sometimes two dozen) of the same name dishes, for example from a dozen varieties of fried game or salted fish, from a dozen types of pancakes or pies.

Thus, in the XVII century. Russian cuisine was already extremely diverse in terms of the range of dishes (we are talking, of course, about the cuisine of the ruling classes). At the same time, the art of cooking in the sense of the ability to combine products, to reveal their taste, was still at a very low level. Suffice it to say that, as before, mixing of products, their grinding, grinding, crushing was not allowed. Most of all, this applied to the meat table.

Therefore, Russian cuisine, in contrast to French and German, for a long time did not know and did not want to accept various minced meats, rolls, pastes and cutlets. All kinds of casseroles and puddings turned out to be alien to the ancient Russian cuisine. The desire to cook a dish from a whole large piece, and ideally from a whole animal or plant, persisted until the 18th century.

The exception seemed to be fillings in pies, in whole animals and poultry, and in their parts - abomasum, omentum. However, in most cases, these were, so to speak, ready-made fillings, crushed by nature itself - grain (porridge), berries, mushrooms (they were not cut either). The fish for the filling was only plastified, but not crushed. And only much later - at the end of the XVIII century. and especially in the nineteenth century. - already under the influence of Western European cuisine, some fillings began to grind on purpose.

The next stage in the development of Russian cuisine begins at the turn of the 17th and 18th centuries. and lasts a little more than a century - until the first decade of the XIX century. At this time, there is a radical delimitation of the cuisine of the ruling classes and the cuisine of the common people. If in the 17th century the cuisine of the ruling classes still retained a national character and its difference from the folk cuisine was expressed only in the fact that in terms of quality, abundance and assortment of products and dishes it sharply surpassed the folk cuisine, then in the 18th century. the cuisine of the ruling classes gradually began to lose the Russian national character.

The order of serving dishes at a rich festive table, consisting of 6-8 changes, finally took shape in the second half of the 18th century. However, one dish was served at each break. This order was preserved until the 60-70s of the XIX century:
1) hot (soup, soup, fish soup);
2) cold (okroshka, botvinya, jelly, jellied fish, corned beef);
3) roast (meat, poultry);
4) body (boiled or fried hot fish);
5) pies (unsweetened), kulebyaka;
6) porridge (sometimes served with cabbage soup);
7) cake (sweet pies, pies);
8) snacks.

Since the time of Peter the Great, the Russian nobility and the rest of the nobility have been borrowing and introducing Western European culinary traditions. Wealthy nobles who visited Western Europe brought foreign chefs with them. At first they were mostly Dutch and German, especially Saxon and Austrian, then Swedish and predominantly French. From the middle of the XVIII century. foreign cooks were discharged so regularly that they soon almost completely replaced the cooks and serf cooks from the higher nobility.

One of the new customs that appeared at this time should be considered the use of snacks as an independent dish. German sandwiches, French and Dutch cheeses that came from the West and hitherto unknown on the Russian table were combined with old Russian dishes - cold corned beef, jelly, ham, boiled pork, as well as caviar, salmon and other salted red fish in a single serving or even in a special meal - breakfast.

There were also new alcoholic drinks - ratafii and erofeichi. Since the 70s of the XVIII century, when tea began to gain more and more importance, in the highest circles of society, sweet pies, pies and sweets stood out beyond the dinner table, which were combined with tea in a separate serving and dated for 5 pm.

Only in the first half of the 19th century, after the Patriotic War of 1812, in connection with the general rise of patriotism in the country and the struggle of Slavophile circles with foreign influence, did progressive representatives of the nobility begin to revive interest in national Russian cuisine.

However, when in 1816 the Tula landowner V. A. Levshin tried to compile the first Russian cookbook, he was forced to state that “information about Russian dishes has almost completely disappeared” and therefore “it is now impossible to present a complete description of Russian cuisine and should be content only by what else can be collected from the memory, for the history of Russian cooking has never been given to description.

As a result, the descriptions of Russian cuisine dishes collected by V. A. Levshin from memory were not only not accurate in their recipe, but also in their assortment far from reflecting the real richness of the dishes of the Russian national table.

The cuisine of the ruling classes and during the first half of the XIX century. continued to develop in isolation from the folk, under the noticeable influence of French cuisine. But the very nature of this influence has changed significantly. In contrast to the 18th century, when there was a direct borrowing of foreign dishes, such as cutlets, sausages, omelettes, mousses, compotes, etc., and the displacement of primordially Russian ones, in the first half of the 19th century. a different process was designated - the processing of the Russian culinary heritage, and in the second half of the 19th century. even the restoration of the Russian national menu begins, however, again with French adjustments.

A number of French chefs worked in Russia during this period, radically reforming the Russian cuisine of the ruling classes. The first French chef who left a mark on the reform of Russian cuisine was Marie-Antoine Karem - one of the first and few chefs-researchers, chefs-scientists. Before coming to Russia at the invitation of Prince P.I. Bagration, Karem was the cook of the English Prince Regent (future King George IV), Duke of Württemberg, Rothschild, Talleyrand. He was keenly interested in the cuisines of various nations. During his short stay in Russia, Karem got acquainted with Russian cuisine in detail, appreciated its merits and outlined ways to free it from alluvial.

Karem's successors in Russia continued the reform he had begun. This reform touched, firstly, the order of serving dishes to the table. adopted in the 18th century. The "French" serving system, when all dishes were put on the table at the same time, was replaced by the old Russian way of serving, when one dish replaced another. At the same time, the number of changes was reduced to 4-5 and a sequence was introduced in serving dinner, in which heavy dishes alternated with light and appetizing ones. In addition, whole-cooked meat or poultry was no longer served on the table; before serving, they began to be cut into portions. With such a system, decorating dishes as an end in itself has lost all meaning.

The reformers also advocated the replacement of dishes from crushed and mashed products, which occupied a large place in the cuisine of the ruling classes in the 18th and early 19th centuries, with dishes from natural products more typical of Russian cuisine. So there were all kinds of chops (lamb and pork) from a whole piece of meat with a bone, natural steaks, bedbugs, langets, entrecotes, escalopes.

At the same time, the efforts of culinary specialists were aimed at eliminating the heaviness and indigestibility of some dishes. So, in the recipes for cabbage soup, they discarded the flour podbolt that made them tasteless, which was preserved only by virtue of tradition, and not common sense, they began to widely use potatoes in garnishes, which appeared in Russia in the 70s of the 18th century.

For Russian pies, they suggested using soft puff pastry made from wheat flour instead of rye sour. They also introduced a safe method of preparing dough with pressed yeast, which we use today, thanks to which the sour dough, which previously took 10-12 hours to prepare, began to ripen in 2 hours.

French chefs also paid attention to appetizers, which became one of the specific features of the Russian table. If in the XVIII century. the German form of serving snacks prevailed - sandwiches, then in the 19th century. they began to serve appetizers on a special table, each type on a special dish, beautifully decorating them, and thus expanded their assortment so much, choosing among the appetizers a whole range of old Russian not only meat and fish, but also mushroom and vegetable sauerkraut dishes, that their abundance and variety henceforth never ceased to be a constant object of astonishment to foreigners.

Finally, the French school introduced a combination of products (vinaigrettes, salads, side dishes) and precise dosages in recipes that were not previously accepted in Russian cuisine, and introduced Russian cuisine to unknown types of Western European kitchen equipment.

At the end of the XIX century. the Russian stove and pots and cast-iron pots specially adapted to its thermal regime were replaced by a stove with its oven, pots, stewpans, etc. Instead of a sieve and a sieve, they began to use colanders, skimmers, meat grinders, etc.

An important contribution of French culinary specialists to the development of Russian cuisine was the fact that they prepared a whole galaxy of brilliant Russian chefs. Their students were Mikhail and Gerasim Stepanov, G. Dobrovolsky, V. Bestuzhev, I. Radetsky, P. Grigoriev, I. Antonov, Z. Eremeev, N. Khodeev, P. Vikentiev and others, who supported and spread the best traditions of Russian cuisine in throughout the 19th century. Of these, G. Stepanov and I. Radetsky were not only outstanding practitioners, but also left behind extensive manuals on Russian cooking.

In parallel with this process of updating the cuisine of the ruling classes, carried out, so to speak, "from above" and concentrated in the noble clubs and restaurants of St. estates until the 70s of the XIX century.

The source for this collection was folk cuisine, in the development of which a huge number of nameless and unknown, but talented serf cooks took part.

By the last third of the XIX century. Russian cuisine of the ruling classes, thanks to the unique assortment of dishes, their exquisite and delicate taste, began to occupy one of the leading places in Europe along with French cuisine.

At the same time, it must be emphasized that, despite all the changes, introductions and foreign influences, its main characteristic features have been preserved and have remained inherent in it to the present, as they have been steadfastly kept in the folk cuisine.

These main features of Russian cuisine and the Russian national table can be defined as follows: an abundance of dishes, a variety of snack tables, a love for eating bread, pancakes, pies, cereals, the originality of the first liquid cold and hot dishes, a variety of fish and mushroom tables, the widespread use of pickles from vegetables and mushrooms, an abundance of a festive and sweet table with its jams, cookies, gingerbread, Easter cakes, etc.

Some features of Russian cuisine should be said in more detail. Even at the end of the XVIII century. Russian historian I. Boltin noted the characteristic features of the Russian table, including not only the prosperous. In the countryside, four times of food were accepted, and in the summer at work time - five: breakfast, or interception, afternoon tea, earlier than lunch, or at noon sharp, lunch, dinner and paupin. These vyti, adopted in Central and Northern Russia, were also preserved in Southern Russia, but with different names. There at 6-7 o'clock in the morning they ate, at 11-12 they dined, at 14-15 they had an afternoon snack, at 18-19 they ate in the evening, and at 22-23 they had supper.

With the development of capitalism, the working people in the cities began to eat at first three, and then only two times a day: breakfast at dawn, lunch or dinner when they came home. At work, they only had an afternoon snack, that is, they ate cold food. Gradually, any full meal, a full table with hot brew, began to be called lunch, sometimes regardless of the time of day.

Bread played an important role at the Russian table. For shchi or other first liquid dish in the village, they usually ate from half a kilo to a kilogram of black rye bread. White bread, wheat, was not actually distributed in Russia until the beginning of the 20th century. It was eaten occasionally and mostly by the wealthy segments of the population in the cities, and among the people they looked at it as a festive meal. Therefore, white bread, called a bun in a number of regions of the country, was not baked in bakeries, like black bread, but in special bakeries and sweetened slightly. ["Bulka" is from the French word boule, which means "round like a ball". Initially, only French and German bakers baked white bread.]

Local varieties of white bread were Moscow saiks and kalachi, Smolensk pretzels, Valdai bagels, etc. Black bread differed not by the place of manufacture, but only by the type of baking and the type of flour - baked, custard, hearth, peeled, etc.

From the 20th century came into use and other flour products from white, wheat, flour, previously not characteristic of Russian cuisine - vermicelli, pasta, while the use of pies, pancakes and cereals has decreased. In connection with the spread of white bread in everyday life, tea drinking with it sometimes began to replace breakfast and dinner.

The first liquid dishes, called from the end of the 18th century, retained unchanged importance in Russian cuisine. soups. Soups have always played a dominant role on the Russian table. No wonder the spoon was the main cutlery. It appeared with us earlier than the fork by almost 400 years. "A fork is like a hook, and a spoon is like a net," said a popular proverb.

The assortment of national Russian soups - cabbage soup, mash, stew, fish soup, pickles, saltwort, botviny, okroshka, prisons - continued to grow in the 18th-20th centuries. various types of Western European soups like broths, mashed soups, various dressing soups with meat and cereals, which took root well thanks to the love of the Russian people for hot liquid brew. In the same way, many soups of the peoples of our country have received a place on the modern Russian table, for example, Ukrainian borscht and kulesh, Belarusian beetroot soups and soups with dumplings.

Many soups, especially vegetable and vegetable-cereal soups, were obtained from liquefied slurry-zaspitsa (i.e. slurry with vegetable filling) or are the fruits of restaurant cuisine. However, it is not they, despite their diversity, but the old, primordially Russian soups like cabbage soup and fish soup that still determine the originality of the Russian table.

To a lesser extent than soups, fish dishes have retained their original significance on the Russian table. Some classic Russian fish dishes, like telnoye, have fallen into disuse. On the other hand, they are delicious and easy to make. It is quite possible to cook them from sea fish, which, by the way, was used in Russian cuisine in the old days, especially in Northern Russia, in Russian Pomorie. The inhabitants of these breadless regions in those days have long been accustomed to cod, halibut, haddock, capelin, navaga. "Without fish is worse than without food," the Pomors used to say then.

Known in Russian cuisine are steam, boiled, calf fish, that is, made in a special way from one fillet, without bones, fried, mended (filled with porridge or mushrooms), stewed, aspic, baked in scales, baked in a pan in sour cream , salted (salted), dried and dried (sushchik). In the Pechora and Perm regions, fish was also fermented (sour fish), and in Western Siberia they ate stroganina - frozen raw fish. Only the method of smoking fish was not widespread, which was developed mainly only in the last 70-80 years, i.e. since the beginning of the 20th century.

Characteristic of the old Russian cuisine was the widespread use of spices in a fairly large assortment. However, the decline in the role of fish, mushroom and game dishes, as well as the introduction of a number of German dishes into the menu, has affected the reduction in the share of spices used in Russian cuisine.

In addition, due to the high cost, many spices, as well as vinegar and salt, have been sold since the 17th century. people began to use re in the process of cooking, and put it on the table and use it already during meals, depending on the desire of everyone. This custom gave rise to later assert that Russian cuisine allegedly did not use spices.

At the same time, they referred to the well-known work of G. Kotoshikhin about Russia in the 17th century, where he wrote: "There is a custom to cook without seasonings, without pepper and indigo, lightly salted and without vinegar." Meanwhile, the same G. Kotoshikhin further explained: "And as soon as they start the nets and in which there is little vinegar and salt and pepper, they add them to the table." Since those distant times, the custom has remained to put salt in a salt shaker, pepper in a pepper shaker, mustard and vinegar in separate jars while eating on the table.

As a result, the skills of cooking with spices were not developed in the folk cuisine, while in the cuisine of the ruling classes, spices continued to be used in the cooking process. But Russian cuisine knew spices and seasonings even at the time of its formation, they were skillfully combined with fish, mushrooms, game, pies, soups, gingerbread, Easter and Easter cakes, and they were used carefully, but nevertheless constantly and without fail. And this circumstance should not be forgotten and overlooked when speaking about the peculiarities of Russian cuisine.

Flavored oil was used quite often. For flavoring, the oil was heated (but not fried) in a frying pan or saucepan and coriander, anise, fennel, dill or celery, parsley seeds were added to it.

Finally, it is necessary to dwell on some technological processes inherent in Russian cuisine.

For a long period of development of Russian national cuisine, the process of cooking was reduced to cooking or baking products in a Russian oven, and these operations were necessarily carried out separately. What was intended for boiling was boiled from beginning to end, what was intended for baking was only baked. Thus, Russian folk cuisine did not know what combined or even different, combined or double heat treatment was.

The heat treatment of food consisted in heating with the heat of a Russian stove, strong or weak, in three degrees - "before bread", "after bread", "in the free spirit" - but always without contact with fire and either with a constant temperature kept at the same level, or with a falling, decreasing temperature as the oven gradually cools down, but never with an increasing temperature, as in stovetop cooking. That is why the dishes always turned out not even boiled, but rather stewed or half-stewed, half-stewed, which is why they acquired a very special taste. Not without reason, many dishes of old Russian cuisine do not make the proper impression when they are cooked in other temperature conditions.

Does this mean that it is necessary to restore the Russian stove in order to get real dishes of Russian cuisine in modern conditions? Far from it. Instead, it is enough to simulate the thermal regime of falling temperature created by it. Such imitation is possible under modern conditions.

However, we should not forget that the Russian stove had not only a positive effect on Russian cuisine, but to a certain extent also a negative one - it did not stimulate the development of rational technological methods.

The introduction of plate cooking led to the need to borrow a number of new technological methods and, along with them, dishes from Western European cuisine, as well as to the reform of dishes of old Russian cuisine, their refining and development, and adaptation to new technology. This trend has proven to be fruitful. It helped save many dishes of Russian cuisine from oblivion.

Speaking of Russian cuisine, we have so far emphasized its features and characteristics, examined the history of its development and its content as a whole. Meanwhile, one should keep in mind the pronounced regional differences in it, explained mainly by the diversity of natural zones and the related dissimilarity of plant and animal products, the different influences of neighboring peoples, as well as the diversity of the social structure of the population in the past.

That is why the cuisines of Muscovites and Pomors, Don Cossacks and Siberians are very different. While in the North they eat venison, fresh and salted sea fish, rye pies, dezhni with cottage cheese and a lot of mushrooms, in the Don they roast and stew steppe game, eat a lot of fruits and vegetables, drink grape wine and cook pies with chicken meat. If the food of the Pomors is similar to the Scandinavian, Finnish, Karelian and Lappish (Sami), then the cuisine of the Don Cossacks was significantly influenced by Turkish, Nogai cuisines, and the Russian population in the Urals or Siberia follows the Tatar and Udmurt culinary traditions.

Regional features of a different plan have long been also inherent in the cuisines of the old Russian regions of Central Russia. These features are due to the medieval rivalry between Novgorod and Pskov, Tver and Moscow, Vladimir and Yaroslavl, Kaluga and Smolensk, Ryazan and Nizhny Novgorod. Moreover, they manifested themselves in the field of cuisine not in major dissimilarities, such as differences in cooking technology or in the availability of their own dishes in each region, as was the case, for example, in Siberia and the Urals, but in differences precisely between the same dishes, in differences are often even insignificant, but nevertheless quite persistent.

A vivid example of this is at least such common Russian dishes as fish soup, pancakes, pies, cereals and gingerbread: they were made throughout European Russia, but each region had its own favorite types of these dishes, their own minor differences in their recipes, their own appearance. , their methods of serving to the table, etc.

We owe this, if I may say so, "small regionality" to the emergence, development and existence so far, for example, of different types of gingerbread - Tula, Vyazma, Voronezh, Gorodetsky, Moscow, etc.

Regional differences, both large and small, naturally enriched Russian cuisine even more and diversified it. And at the same time, all of them did not change its basic character, because in each specific case, the above-mentioned common features, which together distinguish the national Russian cuisine throughout Russia from the Baltic to the Pacific Ocean, attract attention.

Russian cuisine has long been widely known throughout the world. This is manifested both in the direct penetration into the international restaurant cuisine of the most famous dishes of the Russian national menu (jelly, cabbage soup, fish soup, pies, etc.), and in the indirect influence of Russian culinary art on the cuisines of other peoples.

Under the influence of haute restaurant cuisine that developed in Russia in the second half of the 19th century (cooks-restaurateurs Olivier, Yar, and many others), the assortment of Russian cuisine dishes at the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries increased. became so diverse, and its influence and popularity in Europe are so great that by this time they were talking about it with the same respect as about the famous French cuisine.

In the early 1950s, in the USSR, on Stalin’s assignment for cooks, a thick volume “COOKING” was prepared and published, reflecting the features and richness of the developed Russian cuisine. A summary of this essay for housewives was also published - “The Book of Tasty and Healthy Food”. The latter has been repeatedly reprinted and changed, but its first "Stalinist" edition is of particular interest.

Russian traditions
TRADITIONS OF THE RUSSIAN Feast
From the history of Russian table traditions

Each nation has its own way of life, customs, its own unique songs, dances, fairy tales. Each country has favorite dishes, special traditions in table decoration and cooking. There is a lot in them that is expedient, historically conditioned, corresponding to national tastes, lifestyle, climatic conditions. For thousands of years, this way of life and these habits have evolved, they contain the collective experience of our ancestors.

Culinary recipes, formed over the years as a result of centuries of evolution, many of them are excellent examples of the right combination of products in terms of taste, and from a physiological point of view - in terms of nutrient content.

The way of life of a people is formed under the influence of many factors - natural, historical, social, etc. To a certain extent, cultural exchange with other peoples also influences it, but other people's traditions are never mechanically borrowed, but acquire local national flavor on new soil.

Rye, oats, wheat, barley, millet have been cultivated in our country since medieval antiquity, our ancestors have long borrowed the skills of making flour, mastered the "secrets" of baking various products from fermented dough. That is why pies, pies, pancakes, pies, kulebyaki, pancakes, pancakes, etc. are essential in the food of our ancestors. "from dough - on spring holidays, etc.

No less typical for Russian traditional cuisine are dishes from all kinds of cereals: various cereals, krupeniks, pancakes, oatmeal jelly, casseroles, pea-based dishes, as well as lentils.

In the more northern parts of our country, dishes made from millet are of particular importance. This tradition has deep historical roots. Once among the Eastern Slavs, who came to these lands in the VI century AD. and lived predominantly in forest areas, millet was cultivated as the main agricultural crop.

Millet served as a raw material for making flour, cereals, brewing beer, kvass, making soups and sweet dishes. This folk tradition continues to this day. However, it should be borne in mind that millet is inferior to other cereals in its nutritional value. Therefore, it should be prepared with milk, cottage cheese, liver, pumpkin and other products.

Not only grain crops were cultivated by our ancestors. From antiquity, through the centuries, such cultures of Ancient Rome as cabbage, beets and turnips have come down to our days and have become the main ones in our garden. The most widely used in Russia was sauerkraut, which could be preserved until the next harvest. Cabbage serves as an indispensable snack, seasoning for boiled potatoes and other dishes.

Shchi from various types of cabbage is a well-deserved pride of our national cuisine, although they were prepared in ancient Rome, where a lot of cabbage was specially grown. It's just that many vegetable plants and recipes "migrated" from Ancient Rome through Byzantium to Russia after the adoption of Christianity in Russia. The Greeks created Russia not only writing, but also passed on a lot of their culture.

In our time, cabbage is especially widely used in cooking in the northern and central regions of Russia, in the Urals and Siberia.

Turnip in Russia until the end of the 18th - beginning of the 19th centuries. was as important as the potato is today. Turnips were used everywhere and many dishes were prepared from turnips, stuffed, boiled, steamed. Turnips were used as a filling for pies, kvass was prepared from it. Gradually, from the beginning to the middle of the 19th century, it was replaced by much more productive, but much less useful potatoes (practically, this is empty starch). But the turnip contains in its composition very valuable biochemical sulfur compounds, which, when eaten regularly, are excellent immunostimulants. Now the turnip has become a rare and piece product on the Russian table - on sale for it and the price is determined not by kilograms, but by the piece.

After switching to potatoes, Russian cuisine has significantly lost its high quality. As well as after the practical rejection of Russian table horseradish, which is also an indispensable tool for health, but retains its beneficial properties no more than 12-18 hours after preparation, i.e. requiring preparation shortly before serving. Therefore, the modern store-bought "horseradish in jars" does not have such properties or the proper taste at all. So if now in Russia Russian table horseradish is served at the family table, then only on great holidays.

For some reason, the swede is not mentioned in the ancient sources, probably because before the swede was not distinguished from the turnip. These roots, once widespread in Russia, currently occupy a relatively small share in vegetable growing. They could not stand the competition with potatoes and other crops. However, the peculiar taste and smell, the possibility of various culinary uses, transportability, and storage stability make it possible to think that turnips and rutabaga should not be abandoned at present, since they give a very special taste to many dishes of Russian folk cuisine.

Of the vegetable crops that appeared in Russia later, it is impossible not to name the potato. At the very beginning of the XIX century. potatoes made a real revolution in the traditions of the Russian table, potato dishes gained wide popularity. In the spread of potatoes and its popularization, a great merit belongs to the famous cultural figure of the 18th century. A.T. Bolotov, who not only developed the agricultural technique for growing potatoes, but also proposed the technology for preparing a number of dishes.

Animal products have not changed much. From time immemorial, our ancestors consumed the meat of cattle ("beef"), pigs, goats and sheep, as well as poultry - chickens, geese, ducks.

Until the 12th century horse meat was also used, but already in the 13th century. it has almost fallen into disuse, tk. The "extra" horses from the population began to be taken away by the Mongol-Tatars, who needed the horses more. In manuscripts of the XVI-XVII centuries. ("Domostroy", "Painting for the Tsar's Meals"), only separate delicacy dishes from horse meat (jelly from horse lips, boiled horse heads) are mentioned. In the future, with the development of dairy cattle breeding, milk and products derived from it were increasingly used.

Forestry was a great and essential addition to the economy of our ancestors. In the annals of the XI-XII centuries. talking about hunting grounds - "goshawks", later manuscripts mention hazel grouse, wild ducks, hares, geese and other game. Although there is no reason to believe that they were not eaten before from the most ancient times.

Forests occupy vast areas in our country, especially in the north of the Urals and in Siberia. The use of the gifts of the forest is one of the characteristic features of Russian cuisine. In the old days, hazelnuts played an important role in nutrition. Nut butter was one of the most common fats. The kernels of nuts were crushed, a little boiling water was added, wrapped in a rag and put under oppression. The oil gradually dripped into the bowl. Nut cake was also used for food - added to cereals, eaten with milk, with cottage cheese. Crushed nuts were also used to prepare various dishes and fillings.

The forest was also a source of honey (beekeeping). From honey prepared various sweet dishes and drinks - medki. At present, only in some places in Siberia (especially in the Altai among the local non-Russian peoples) the methods of preparing these delicious drinks have been preserved.

However, from the most ancient times and before the advent of mass production of sugar, honey was the main sweet among all peoples, and a wide variety of sweet drinks, dishes and desserts were prepared on its basis in ancient Egypt, ancient Greece and ancient Rome. Also, not only Russians, but all peoples who had fish at their disposal, from time immemorial ate caviar.

The very first artificially cultivated fruit tree in Russia was cherry. Under Yuri Dolgoruky, only cherries grew in Moscow.

The nature of Russian folk cuisine was largely influenced by the geographical features of our country - the abundance of rivers, lakes, seas. It is the geographical location that explains the number of various types of fish dishes. In the diet, a lot of river fish species, as well as lake ones, were quite common. Although there were many more different fish dishes in Ancient Greece and, especially, in Ancient Rome, the creator of the foundations of the modern wealth of European cuisine. What were the culinary fantasies of Lucullus worth! (Unfortunately, his many recipe records have been lost.)

In Russian cuisine, a large assortment of products was also used for cooking. However, it is not so much the variety of products that determines the specificity of the national Russian cuisine (these products were also available to Europeans), but the methods of their processing and cooking technologies themselves. In many ways, the originality of folk dishes was determined precisely by the peculiarities of the Russian stove.

There is reason to believe that the design of the traditional Russian stove was not borrowed. It appeared in Eastern Europe as a local original type of hearth. This is indicated by the fact that among the peoples of Siberia, Central Asia, and the Caucasus, the main types of ovens were open hearths, as well as an outdoor oven for baking bread or a tandoor for baking cakes. Finally, archeology provides direct evidence of this. During the excavations of Trypillia settlements in Ukraine (3rd millennium BC), not only the remains of furnaces were found, but also a clay model of the furnace, which made it possible to restore their appearance and structure. These adobe stoves can be considered the prototype of later stoves, including the Russian stove.

But the design of the samovar was borrowed by the Russians from the Persians, who in turn took it from the Arabs. (However, Russian nesting dolls were also borrowed from the Japanese in 1893, and their mass production was already established in 1896.)

But we should not try to artificially "clear" our table from dishes once borrowed from other peoples, which have long become familiar to us. These include, for example, pancakes (borrowed in the 9th century from the cuisine of the Varangians along with compotes and dried fruit broths), cutlets, meatballs, langets, steaks, escalopes, mousses, jelly, mustard, mayonnaise (borrowed from European cuisine), barbecue and kebab (borrowed from the Crimean Tatars), dumplings (borrowed from the Mongols in the 12th century), borsch (this is the national dish of Ancient Rome, which came to Russia along with Orthodoxy from the Byzantine Greeks), ketchup (an invention of the cooks of the English navy) and others.

Many dishes that have now become traditional Russian were invented by French chefs-restaurateurs who worked in Russia in the 19th century and created the foundations of modern Russian cuisine (Lucien Olivier, Yar and others).

In the process of historical development, nutrition has changed, new products have appeared, and ways of processing them have improved. Relatively recently, potatoes and tomatoes appeared in Russia, many ocean fish have become familiar, and without them it is already impossible to imagine our table. Attempts to divide Russian cuisine into old original and modern are very conditional. It all depends on the availability of products available to the people. And who will say now that dishes with potatoes or tomatoes cannot be national Russians?

The culinary use of pineapples during the time of Catherine II and Prince Potemkin (this lover of cabbage stalks, which he did not part with and gnawed constantly) is curious. Pineapples were then chopped and fermented in barrels, like cabbage. It was one of Potemkin's favorite vodka snacks.

Our country is vast, and each region has its own local dishes. In the north they love cabbage soup, and in the south - borscht, in Siberia and the Urals there is no festive table without shaneg, and in Vologda - without fishmen, on the Don they cook fish soup with tomatoes, etc. However, there are many common dishes for all regions of our country and many common methods of their preparation.

Everything that was formed at the initial stage of the Russian culinary tradition remains unchanged to this day. The main components of the traditional Russian table: black rye bread, which remains a favorite to this day, a variety of soups and cereals cooked almost every day, but not at all according to the same recipes as many years ago (which require a Russian oven, and even the ability to manage it), pies and countless other products made from yeast dough, without which not a single fun is complete, pancakes, as well as our traditional drinks - honey, kvass and vodka (although all of them are also borrowed; in particular, bread kvass was prepared and in ancient Rome).

In addition, with the arrival of Orthodoxy from Byzantium in Russia, a lenten table was formed.

The main advantage of Russian cuisine is the ability to absorb and creatively refine, improve the best dishes of all nations with which Russian people had to communicate on a long historical path. This is what made Russian cuisine the richest cuisine in the world.

Nowadays, in the national culinary arts of the whole world, there is not a single dish that is more or less worthy, which would not have its analogue in the richest Russian cuisine, and, moreover, in a much better performance, corresponding to Russian taste.

OUT OF THE DINING
or meal time. Vyt is an old Russian word for meal time. Each howl, each dining time has long had its own name, which has survived to our time.

Initially, they were called: interception (7 a.m.), afternoon tea (11 a.m.), lunch (3 p.m.), pa lunch (5-6 p.m.), dinner (8 p.m.-9 p.m.) and pauzhin (11 p.m.). Not all of these activities were performed at the same time.

From the end of the 18th - beginning of the 19th centuries. the following names are established: breakfast (from 6 to 8 am), afternoon tea (from 10 to 11 am), lunch (between 2 and 3 pm), tea (5–6 pm), dinner (8–9 pm). Basically, these vyti are still recognized as a rational meal time for hospitals, boarding schools, and sanatoriums. An afternoon snack is now more often called a second breakfast, and as a reminder of a dinner in sanatoriums, kefir was left before bedtime, one and a half to two hours after dinner.

In Western European practice, other ways have developed. They are still preserved partly in the restaurant, partly in the diplomatic practice of many countries.

So, breakfast happens at 7.30-8 o'clock, then midi (in France) at 12 o'clock, and in most countries of Western Europe, according to the English model, lunch is at 13 o'clock. This, in fact, is our lunch, although in diplomatic terminology it is breakfast. Five-o-clock (tea or cocktail in diplomatic terminology) at 5-6 pm and lunch at 8 pm, which is actually similar to our dinner, since soup is not served at this "lunch".

There is no supper in the West. But French practice sometimes also provides for the so-called supe (souper), that is, an evening or night dinner, which is arranged only when the festival drags on well after midnight. In this case, at 23.30 or at 24.00, or even at one in the morning, various snacks are served and onion soup, traditional in such cases, from which this nightly dinner got its name, and then a light hot fish second (but often limited to one soup ). In practice, supe is used extremely rarely, literally two or three, at most four or five times a year, on major holidays.

Reception
In the seventeenth century, every self-respecting city dweller, and even more so if he was also wealthy, could not do without festive feasts, because this was part of their way of life. They began to prepare for the festive feast long before the solemn day - they cleaned and tidied up the whole house and yard in the most thorough way, everything had to be perfect by the arrival of the guests, everything had to shine like never before. Ceremonial tablecloths, dishes, towels were taken from the chests, which were so carefully stored for this day.

And the place of honor of the head of this entire responsible process, as well as the purchase and preparation of festive events, was monitored by the mistress of the house.

The host also had an equally important duty - inviting guests to a feast. Moreover, depending on the status of the guest, the host either sent a servant with an invitation, or went himself. And actually the event itself looked something like this: the hostess came out to the assembled guests in a festive attire and greeted them, bowing from the waist, and the guests answered her with a bow to the ground, followed by a kissing ceremony: the owner of the house offered the guests to honor the hostess with a kiss.

The guests in turn approached the hostess of the house and kissed her, and at the same time, according to the canons of etiquette, they held their hands behind their backs, then bowed to her again and accepted a glass of vodka from her hands. When the hostess went to a special women's table, this served as a signal for everyone to sit down and start eating. Usually the ceremonial table stood stationary, in the "red corner", that is, under the icons, near the benches fixed to the wall, sitting on which, by the way, at that time, was considered more honorable than on the side ones.

The meal itself began from the fact that the owner of the house cut off and served each invited guest a slice of bread with salt, which symbolized the hospitality and hospitality of this house, by the way, today's hospitable traditions originate from that time. As a sign of special respect or affection for one of his guests, the host of the ceremony could himself put some food from a special plate that was specially placed next to him, and, with the help of his servant, send it to the guest of honor especially, as if emphasizing his attention more given to him.

Although the tradition of welcoming guests with bread and salt has come to us since then, the order of serving dishes in those days was noticeably different from what we are used to today: first they ate pies, after a dish of meat, poultry and fish, and only at the end of the meal taken for soups.

Serving Order
When all the participants in the meal were already seated in their places, the host cut the bread into pieces and, together with salt, served each guest separately. With this action, he once again emphasized the hospitality of his home and deep respect for all those present.

At these festive feasts, there was always one more thing - the so-called oprichny dish was placed in front of the owner and the owner personally transferred the food from it into shallow containers (flat dishes) and passed it along with the servants to special guests as a sign of absolute attention to them. And when the servant conveyed this peculiar gastronomic message from his master, as a rule he said: "May you, sir, eat to your health."

If we, by some miracle, could move in time and end up in the seventeenth century, and why not, if the second miracle happened, we would be invited to such a celebration, we would be surprised at the order of serving dishes to the table. Judge for yourself, now it’s normal for us that first we eat an appetizer, after soup, and after that the second and dessert, and in those days pies were served first, then meat, poultry and fish dishes (“roast”), and only then , at the end of dinner - soups ("ear"). After resting after soups, for dessert they ate a variety of sweet snacks.

How they drank in Russia
The traditions of drinking in Russia, preserved and extant, have their roots in ancient times, and in many homes today, as in the distant past, refusing to eat and drink means offending the owners. The tradition of drinking vodka not in small sips, as is customary for example in European countries, but in one gulp, has also come down to us and is widely practiced.

True, the attitude towards drunkenness has now changed, if today getting drunk means deviating from the accepted norms of decency, then in those days of boyar Russia, when it was considered mandatory, a non-drunk guest had to at least pretend to be one. Although it was not necessary to get drunk quickly, but to keep up with all the participants in the feast, and therefore a quick drunkenness at a party was considered indecent.

Royal feasts
Thanks to many old manuscripts that have come down to us, we are well aware of the festive and everyday table of the tsar and the boyars. And this is due to the punctuality and clarity of the performance of their duties by court servants.

The number of all kinds of dishes at royal feasts and at the feasts of rich boyars reached one hundred, and in special cases it could reach five hundred, and each one was solemnly brought to the table in turn, one at a time, and precious gold and silver dishes with the rest of the dishes were held in their hands standing around the table. richly dressed servants.

Peasant feast
But the traditions of feasting and eating were also not so rich strata of society, and were not only among the rich and noble members of society.

Representatives of almost all segments of the population considered it obligatory to gather at the banquet table on the occasion of all significant events in life, be it weddings, christenings, name days, meetings, seeing off, commemoration, folk and church holidays ...

And of course, this tradition has come down to us almost unchanged.

Russian hospitality
Everyone knows about Russian hospitality and it has always been so. (However, what people will say about themselves that they are not hospitable?! Georgians? Armenians? French? Chukchi? Italians or Greeks? And further down the list...)

As for food, if guests come to the house of a Russian person and find the family at dinner, they will certainly be invited to the table and seated at it, and the guest is unlikely to have the opportunity to refuse this. (Although among other peoples, the guest is also not forced to stand in the corner until the end of dinner. But, as they say, you can’t praise yourself ...)

Solemn dinners and feasts in honor of the reception of foreign guests were arranged with particular breadth and scope, they were intended to demonstrate not only the material capabilities of the royal hosts (who had thoroughly robbed their own people), but also the breadth and hospitality of the Russian soul

The concept of "Russian cuisine" is as broad as the country itself. The names, taste preferences and composition of dishes differ quite significantly depending on the region. Wherever representatives of society moved, they brought their own traditions to cooking, and at the place of residence they were actively interested in the culinary tricks of the region and quickly introduced them, thereby adapting them to their own ideas about healthy and tasty food. Thus, over time, in the territory of a vast country, their own addictions were formed.

Story

Russian cuisine has a rather interesting and long history. Despite the fact that for quite a long time the country was not even aware of the existence of such products as rice, corn, potatoes and tomatoes, the national table was distinguished by an abundance of fragrant and tasty foods.

Traditional Russian dishes do not require exotic ingredients and specialized knowledge, however, their preparation requires a lot of experience. The main ingredients throughout the centuries have been turnips and cabbage, all kinds of fruits and berries, radishes and cucumbers, fish, mushrooms and meat. Grains such as oats, rye, lentils, wheat and millet were not left aside.

The knowledge about yeast dough was borrowed from the Scythians and Greeks. China pleased our country with tea, and Bulgaria spoke about the methods of cooking pepper, zucchini and eggplant.

Many interesting Russian dishes were adopted from European cuisine of the 16th-18th centuries, including smoked meats, salads, ice cream, liqueurs, chocolate and wines.
Pancakes, borscht, Siberian dumplings, okroshka, Guryev porridge, Tula gingerbread, Don fish have long become a kind of culinary brands of the state.

Main Ingredients

It is not a secret for everyone that our state is mainly a northern country, the winter here is long and severe. Therefore, the dishes that are eaten must necessarily provide a lot of heat to help survive in such a climate.

The main components that made up Russian folk dishes are:

• Potato. Various dishes were prepared from it, fried, boiled and baked, they also made chops, potato pancakes, pancakes, soups.
• Bread. This product occupies a significant place in the diet of the average Russian. Such food is striking in its diversity: these are croutons, and crackers, just bread, bagels and a huge number of species that can be listed indefinitely.
• Eggs. Most often they are boiled or fried, and already on their basis a large number of various dishes are prepared.
• Meat. The most commonly consumed types are beef and pork. Many dishes are made from this product, for example, zrazy, chops, cutlets, etc.
• Butter. It is very popular and is added to many ingredients. They eat it and just spread it on bread.

Also, traditional Russian dishes were very often prepared from milk, cabbage, kefir and yogurt, mushrooms, fermented baked milk, cucumbers, sour cream and lard, apples and honey, berries and garlic, sugar and onions. In order to make any dish, you must use pepper, salt and vegetable oil.

List of popular Russian dishes

Rationality and simplicity are considered a feature of our cuisine. This can be attributed both to the technology of preparation and to the recipe. A huge number of first dishes were popular, but the main list of them is presented below:

• Shchi is one of the most popular first courses. A huge number of options for its preparation are known.
• Ukha was popular in all its varieties: burlatskaya, double, triple, team, fishing.
• Rassolnik was most often cooked Leningrad, homemade and Moscow with kidneys, chicken and goose giblets, fish and cereals, roots and mushrooms, corn, meatballs, lamb brisket.

Flour products also played an important role:

• pancakes;
• dumplings;
• pies;
• pancakes;
• pies;
• cheesecakes;
• donuts;
• kulebyaki;
• donuts.

Cereal dishes were especially popular:

• porridge in a pumpkin;
• pea;
• buckwheat with mushrooms.

The meat was most often stewed or baked, and semi-liquid dishes were made from offal. The most favorite meat dishes were:

• fire cutlets;
• Stroganoff beef;
• veal "Orlov";
• bird in the capital;
• pork roll in Russian;
• offal stew;
• hazel grouse in sour cream;
• boiled scars.

Sweet foods were also widely represented:

• compotes;
• jelly;
• fruit drinks;
• kvass;
• sbiten;
• honeys.

Ritual and forgotten dishes

Basically, all the dishes of our cuisine have a ritual meaning, and some of them have been going back since pagan times. They were used on fixed days or on holidays. For example, pancakes, which were considered sacrificial bread among the Eastern Slavs, were eaten only at Maslenitsa or at a commemoration. And Easter cakes and Easter were prepared for the holy feast of Easter.

Kutya was served as a funeral meal. The same dish was boiled for various celebrations. And each time it had a new name, which was timed to coincide with the event. The "poor" was preparing before Christmas, the "rich" - before the New Year, and the "hungry" - before Epiphany.

Some old Russian dishes are undeservedly forgotten today. Until recently, there was nothing tastier than carrots and cucumbers boiled with honey in a water bath. The whole world knew and loved national desserts: baked apples, honey, various gingerbread and jams. They also made cakes from berry porridge, previously dried in the oven, and “boys” - boiled pieces of beets and carrots - these were favorite Russian children's dishes. The list of such forgotten foods can be continued indefinitely, as the cuisine is very rich and varied.

Traditional Russian drinks include kvass, sbiten and berry fruit drinks. For example, the first from the list has been known to the Slavs for over 1000 years. The presence of this product in the house was considered a sign of prosperity and wealth.

vintage dishes

Modern cuisine, with all its huge variety, is very different from the past, but still strongly intertwined with it. To date, many recipes have been lost, tastes have been forgotten, most products have become inaccessible, but Russian folk dishes should not be erased from memory.

The traditions of people are closely connected with food intake and developed under the influence of a wide variety of factors, among which all kinds of religious abstinences play the main role. Therefore, in the Russian lexicon, such words as “fasting” and “meat-eater” are very often found, these periods constantly alternated.

Such circumstances had a strong impact on Russian cuisine. There is a huge number of dishes from cereals, mushrooms, fish, vegetables, which have been seasoned with vegetable fats. On the festive table there were always such Russian dishes, photos of which can be seen below. They are associated with an abundance of game, meat, and fish. Their preparation takes considerable time and requires certain skills from cooks.

Most often, the feast began with snacks, namely mushrooms, sauerkraut, cucumbers, pickled apples. Salads appeared later, during the reign of Peter I.
Then they ate such Russian dishes as soups. It should be noted that in the national cuisine there is a rich set of first courses. First of all, these are cabbage soup, hodgepodge, borscht, fish soup and botvini. This was followed by porridge, which was popularly called the foremother of bread. On meat-eating days, cooks prepared delicious dishes from offal and meat.

Soups

Ukraine and Belarus had a strong influence on the formation of culinary preferences. Therefore, the country began to cook such Russian hot dishes as kuleshi, borscht, beetroot, soup with dumplings. They are very firmly included in the menu, but still national dishes such as cabbage soup, okroshka, ear are still popular.

Soups can be divided into seven types:

1. Cold, which are prepared on the basis of kvass (okroshka, turi, botvinya).
2. Vegetable decoctions, they are made on the water.
3. Dairy, meat, mushroom and noodles.
4. Shchi, a favorite dish of all, belongs to this group.
5. High-calorie hodgepodges and pickles, prepared on the basis of meat broth, and have a slightly salty-sour taste.
6. A variety of fish broths fell into this subcategory.
7. Soups that are made only with the addition of cereals in vegetable broth.

In hot weather, it is very pleasant to eat cool Russian first courses. Their recipes are very varied. For example, it can be okroshka. Initially, it was prepared only from vegetables with the addition of kvass. But today there are a large number of recipes with fish or meat.

A very tasty old dish of botvinya, which has lost its popularity due to the laboriousness of preparation and high cost. It included such varieties of fish as salmon, sturgeon and stellate sturgeon. A variety of recipes can require from a couple of hours to a day to prepare. But no matter how difficult the food is, such Russian dishes will bring great pleasure to a real gourmet. The list of soups is very diverse, like the country itself with its own nationalities.

Urination, salting, fermentation

The easiest way to prepare blanks is urinating. They stocked up such Russian dishes from apples, lingonberries and cranberries, sloes, cloudberries, pears, cherries and mountain ash. On the territory of our country there was even a specially bred variety of apples, which was perfect for such preparations.

According to the recipes, such additives as kvass, molasses, brine and malt were distinguished. There are practically no special differences between salting, pickling and urinating, often it is only the amount of salt used.

In the sixteenth century, this spice ceased to be a luxury, and everyone in the Kama region began to actively engage in its production. By the end of the seventeenth century, the Stroganov factories alone produced more than 2 million poods a year. At this time, such Russian dishes arose, the names of which remain relevant to this day. The availability of salt made it possible to harvest cabbage, mushrooms, beets, turnips and cucumbers for the winter. This method has helped to reliably preserve and preserve your favorite products.

Fish and meat

Russia is a country in which winter takes quite a long time, and food must be nutritious and satisfying. Therefore, the main Russian dishes have always included meat, and very diverse ones. Perfectly cooked beef, pork, lamb, veal and game. Basically, everything was baked whole or cut into large pieces. Dishes made on skewers, which were called "twisted", were very popular. Chopped meat was often added to cereals, and pancakes were also stuffed with it. Not a single table could do without fried ducks, hazel grouses, chickens, geese and quails. In a word, hearty Russian meat dishes have always been held in high esteem.

Recipes for fish dishes and preparations are also striking in their variety and quantity. These products cost nothing to the peasants at all, since they caught the "ingredients" for them on their own in large quantities. And in the years of famine, such supplies formed the basis of the diet. But expensive species, like sturgeon and salmon, were served only on big holidays. Like meat, this product was stored for future use, it was salted, smoked and dried.

Below are a few recipes of primordially Russian dishes.

Rassolnik

It is one of the most popular dishes, the basis of which is pickles, and sometimes brine. This dish is not typical of other cuisines of the world, such as hodgepodge and okroshka. During its long existence, it has changed significantly, but is still considered a favorite.

Kalya can be called the prototype of the usual pickle - this is a rather spicy and thick soup, which was cooked on cucumber brine with the addition of pressed caviar and oily fish. Gradually, the last ingredient was changed to meat, and this is how the well-known and beloved dish appeared. Today's recipes are very diverse, so they are both vegetarian and non-vegetarian. Such primordially Russian dishes use beef, offal and pork as a basis.

To prepare a well-known dish, you need to boil meat or offal for 50 minutes. Next, send bay leaves and peppercorns, salt, carrots and onions there. The last of the ingredients is peeled and cut crosswise, or it can simply be pierced with a knife. Everything is boiled for another 30 minutes, then the meat is removed and the broth is filtered. Next, a frying of carrots and onions is done, cucumbers are rubbed on a grater and also laid out there. The broth is brought to a boil, the meat is chopped into pieces and added to it, it is poured with rice and finely chopped potatoes. Everything is brought to readiness and dressed with vegetables, let it boil for 5 minutes, add greens and sour cream.

Aspic

This dish is consumed cold, for cooking the meat broth is thickened to a jelly-like mass with the addition of small pieces of meat. It is very often considered a kind of aspic, but this is a serious misconception, since the latter has such a structure thanks to agar-agar or gelatin. Kholodets leads Russian meat dishes and is considered an independent dish that does not require the addition of gelling agents.

Not everyone knows that several hundred years ago such a popular dish was prepared for the servants of the king. Initially, it was called studen. And they made it from the remnants of the master's table. Waste was chopped rather finely, then boiled in broth, and then cooled. The resulting dish was unsightly and questionable in taste.

With the country's passion for French cuisine, many Russian dishes, whose names also came from there, have changed a bit. The modern jelly, which was called galantine, was no exception. It consisted of pre-boiled game, rabbit and pork. These ingredients were ground together with eggs, then diluted with broth to the consistency of sour cream. Our chefs turned out to be more resourceful, therefore, through various simplifications and tricks, galantine and jelly were transformed into modern Russian jelly. The meat was replaced with a pig's head and leg, and beef ears and tails were added.

So, to prepare such a dish, you need to take the gelling components that are presented above, and simmer them for at least 5 hours over low heat, then add any meat and cook for a few more hours. First, carrots, onions and your favorite spices are added. After the time is up, you need to strain the broth, disassemble the meat and arrange it on plates, then pour it with the resulting liquid and send it to harden in the cold.

Today, not a single feast can do without this dish. Despite the fact that all Russian home-style dishes take a lot of time, the process of preparing this is not particularly difficult. The essence of aspic remains unchanged for a long time, only its basis is transformed.

Russian borsh

It is considered very popular and loved by all. For cooking, you will need meat, potatoes and cabbage, beets and onions, parsnips and carrots, tomatoes and beets. Be sure to add spices such as pepper and salt, bay leaf and garlic, vegetable oil and water. Its composition can change, ingredients can be added or subtracted.

Borscht is a traditional Russian dish that requires boiling meat. First, it is thoroughly washed and poured with cold water, and then brought to a boil over medium heat, foam is removed as it appears, and after that the broth is cooked for another 1.5 hours. Parsnips and beets are cut into thin strips, onions are cut into half rings, carrots and tomatoes are rubbed, and cabbage is thinly chopped. At the end of cooking, the broth must be salted. Then cabbage is sent to it, the mass is brought to a boil, and the whole potato is laid. We are waiting for everything to be half ready. In a small frying pan, onions, parsnips and carrots are fried a little, then everything is poured with tomatoes and carefully stewed.

In a separate container, it is necessary to steam the beets for 15 minutes so that they cook, and then transfer them to the roast. Next, the potatoes are removed from the broth and added to all the vegetables, after which they knead a little with a fork, as it should be soaked in the sauce. We simmer everything for another 10 minutes. Next, the ingredients are sent to the broth, and a few bay leaves and pepper are also thrown there. Boil for another 5 minutes, then sprinkle with herbs and crushed garlic. The prepared dish must be infused for 15 minutes. It can also be made without the addition of meat, then it is perfect for fasting, and thanks to the variety of vegetables, it will still remain incredibly tasty.

Dumplings

This culinary product consists of minced meat and unleavened dough. It is considered a famous dish of Russian cuisine, which has ancient Finno-Ugric, Turkic, Chinese and Slavic roots. The name comes from the Udmurt word "pelnyan", which means "bread ear". Analogues of dumplings are found in most cuisines of the world.

The story tells that this product was very popular during the wanderings of Yermak. Since then, this dish has become the most favorite among the inhabitants of Siberia, and then the rest of the regions of wide Russia. This dish consists of unleavened dough, for which you need water, flour and eggs, and pork, beef or lamb are minced for the filling. Quite often, the filling is prepared from chicken with the addition of sauerkraut, pumpkin and other vegetables.

In order to prepare the dough, you need to mix 300 ml of water and 700 grams of flour, add 1 egg and knead a stiff dough. For the filling, mix the minced meat with finely chopped onion, pepper and salt a little. Next, the dough is rolled out and with the help of a mold we squeeze out circles into which we put a little minced meat and pinch into triangles. Then boil water and boil until the dumplings float.

When we organize a Russian-style feast or go to a Russian restaurant, the menu will definitely include pickled cucumbers, sauerkraut, pickled mushrooms, for the first - daily cabbage soup, Moscow borscht and fish soup, delicacies - sturgeon, red and black caviar, game. Siberian dumplings, boiled potatoes, Guryev porridge, pancakes… And what did our ancestors actually eat?

Shchi and porridge are our food.

The usual food of Russian peasants was not very diverse. You need to cook quickly and satisfyingly, using what is grown with your own hands or collected in the forest. They ate little meat, although from time immemorial chickens, geese, cows, goats and pigs have been bred.
Our ancestors called shami any soup, and not just with cabbage, as it is now. Turnips, cabbages, and beets were grown in vegetable gardens. All this could be boiled in water or meat broth, whitened with milk or sour cream - that's the whole recipe. In the spring, sorrel or young nettles were used. For "nutritiousness" they added a "ceiling" of fried lard, and hemp oil was seasoned with food during fasting. In the XVI century. it was possible to try “borshch shti”, “cabbage shti”, “repyan shti”.
They often ate tyuryu - bread crumbled in small pieces into kvass, milk or water. Greens could also be added there, seasoned with vegetable oil. It did not require fire to prepare it, so it could also be made right in the field, where the peasants went to work for the whole day. In addition, in the summer heat, such food does not make you sleepy. From tyuri came today's okroshka.
But at first they called borscht a stew from hogweed (not one that can be burned). Then they began to cook it on beet kvass: they warmed it up in a pot, threw chopped beets, carrots, cabbage into boiling water and sent it to languish in the oven.
The most high-calorie in the diet were cereals. them in the 16th century. there were more than 20 species. Different cereals, different degrees of grinding made it possible to cook something new. Just like with cabbage soup, our ancestors did not bother themselves and the word "porridge" called any thick concoction of chopped foods.
Different porridges were popular in different provinces. For example, in Tambov there was the most millet. It was used to make not only porridge with water or milk, but also a kulesh with lard. In the Novgorod, Tver, Pskov provinces they prepared thick - thick barley porridge from whole grains.
Porridge has become an integral part of many holidays, ceremonies and rituals. She fed young people at weddings, workers after doing collective work. Newborns were greeted with "Babkin's" porridge, military successes were celebrated with "victorious", a truce was secured with "peaceful" porridge, and the deceased was commemorated with kutya.

Bread on the table - and the table is a throne, but not a piece of bread - and the table is a board

They ate a lot of bread. Peasants baked it from rye flour. Since this process is laborious, it was started once a week. The finished product was then stored in special wooden bread bins.
For a peasant, bread was so important that without it, hunger began, even if there was plenty of other food. In lean years, quinoa, bran, tree bark, ground acorns were added to the dough.
Bread was also an attribute of many rituals. Dear guests were greeted with "bread and salt", they took communion with prosphora, they broke the fast with Easter cakes, they saw off the winter with pancakes on Maslenitsa, they greeted spring with "larks".
Not only bread was baked from flour. Fritters, pancakes, gingerbread, rolls, cheesecakes often appeared on the table. Pancakes in the old days were made from buckwheat flour, loose, fluffy, sour. There were a great many pies, they were served with certain dishes: with buckwheat porridge - for fresh cabbage soup, sour - with salted fish, with meat - for noodles, with carrots - for fish soup.
In the seventeenth century there were at least 50 pie recipes. They differed in the type of dough: yeast, puff, unleavened; baking method: spun in oil, hearth. The sizes and shape (round, square, triangular, elongated), the way the filling was placed (open - pies) and closed ones changed. The filling could be: meat, fish, eggs, porridge, fruits, vegetables, berries, mushrooms, raisins, poppy seeds, peas, cottage cheese, chopped greens.

Good snack - sauerkraut

Winter in Russia is long and harsh, which is why all kinds of pickles were so popular. Cabbage was pickled in barrels, apples, cranberries, lingonberries were added to it. Apples and cranberries were also soaked. When cucumbers appeared, they began to use them.
Mushrooms were especially revered. Milk mushrooms, mushrooms, chanterelles, honey mushrooms, volnushki - each region has its own. Some species, for example, white and mushrooms, dried more.
The berries were dried or mixed with honey for storage. There were also blanks in the oven, for example, raspberries could be laid out in an even layer on a cabbage leaf and sent to a cooling oven. The berries reached the desired condition, and then the dried leaf was removed from the resulting cake.

Potatoes and dumplings

Potatoes appeared in Russia only in the 18th century through the efforts of Peter I and did not immediately become the “second bread”. But when they tasted it, they began to grow it with pleasure, and gradually it replaced turnips from the diet. Thanks to the potato, it became easier to survive the crop failures of wheat and rye.
Pelmeni, on the other hand, got into Russian cuisine, presumably because of the Urals. There is no mention of them in any culinary book in Russia until the beginning of the 19th century. The earliest description of such a dish is found in the "Painting of the Royal Food" (1610-1613), which mentions manti with lamb.
Back in 1817, dumplings were exotic in the European part of Russia, although they were common in Siberia. There they were molded in huge quantities and stored in the winter in the cold. In 1837, Ekaterina Avdeeva wrote about "dumplings" as a word used in Siberia, that in Russia they are called "ears", which is made from pasta dough with chopped beef, also with mushrooms or fish.

The dishes of Russian national cuisine have a rather rich history and a large assortment. The composition of dishes of modern Russian cuisine is quite diverse, and, as a rule, their recipes involve several different cooking options, ranging from the simplest to the most complex and multi-component ones. Having a centuries-old tradition, the national cuisine of Russia combines both traditional native Russian dishes and those borrowed from other peoples.

Traditional Russian cuisine

Due to the fact that for cooking in peasant Russia they used mainly a Russian oven, the main methods of heat treatment of products were boiling, languishing, stewing or baking. Fried dishes were an exception, since the design of the closed Russian oven did not allow obtaining the temperatures necessary for frying. Features of Russian cuisine in its traditional old version are in a wide variety of liquid, stewed or boiled dishes, or dishes from baked meat, fish, poultry.

The main or first course of Russian cuisine are soups or stews. Among the first courses, cabbage soup, borscht, pickle, hodgepodge, fish soup, mushroom and vegetable soups, okroshka, and botvinya are most widely used.

Russian cabbage soup and borscht are the most popular all over the world. Shchi is prepared from fresh or sauerkraut, nettle, sorrel. In modern culinary guides, you can find several dozen different types of Russian cabbage soup: with meat, fish, poultry, mushrooms, etc.. Borsch, beetroot cabbage soup, is also considered to be a very popular and widespread Russian dish.

As a rule, porridges were used as second courses of Russian cuisine. Porridge was considered an indispensable attribute of any table at any time, there was even a saying: cabbage soup and porridge are our food. The prevalence of cereals was determined, firstly, by the variety of grain crops growing in Russia, and secondly, by the simplicity of their preparation.

Crushed grain was often used to prepare porridge, which made it possible to reduce the cooking time and obtain a product with a more delicate texture. Kashi was seasoned with butter and melted butter, honey, berries and fruits. After the appearance of potatoes in Russia, it gradually gained popularity and became the “second bread”. Recipes for cooking baked potatoes, as well as "jacket potatoes", along with porridge, are still an important part of Russian national cuisine today.

Boiled or baked fish, boiled or stewed meat, and poultry were served with cereals and potatoes used as side dishes. Fish or poultry were most often cooked whole, beef, lamb, pork and meat of large wild animals were served in large pieces, since meat products were not allowed to be chopped during the cooking process.

There are features of Russian national cuisine that are not widely used in the culinary preferences of other countries. These are marinades and pickles - Russian pickles. The most characteristic of them are sauerkraut, pickled or pickled cucumbers or mushrooms. Not a single festive feast of the Russian people is complete without pickled, salted, pickled mushrooms, vegetables and fruits. Recipes for the most successful cooking options for these snacks are often inherited from parents to children.

It should also be noted popular recipes for Olivier salads and vinaigrette. The latter is called "Russian salad" all over the world. Vinaigrette is a Russian invention. Pickled cucumbers and sauerkraut are used for its preparation. Olivier salad can also be considered an attribute of Russian national cuisine, since it is prepared almost exclusively in Russia. The same characteristic feature of the Russian festive feast, like Olivier salad and vinaigrette, is jelly.

Russian national drinks

The national cuisine of Russia includes such popular drinks as kvass, fruit drink and kissel. Existing recipes for kvass include several dozen options for its preparation. Morse and jelly based on fruit or berry decoctions are also a nice addition to the festive table. You can also mention the oldest Russian low-alcohol drink - mead (or honey mash), as well as many different liqueurs and tinctures popular in Russia. However, most often foreigners remember Russian cuisine when they see black caviar, pancakes and Russian vodka.

Culinary dough products

Initially, Russian pastries were made from yeast dough prepared in the sourdough method. Yeast dough for dough in Russia began to be used much earlier than in many other countries. Pies and pies, pies, kurniks, kulebyaks and many other products were baked from different types of such dough. The filling was various varieties of fish, meat of domestic animals and game, mushrooms, berries, vegetables, fruits, cottage cheese.

Russian culinary specialists began to use unleavened dough much later. Therefore, the range of products from it is relatively small: noodles, dumplings, dumplings, pancakes.

Pies were always served with the first courses: soup, fish soup, cabbage soup. Kurnik and loaf were traditionally baked for the wedding table. Drying and bagels, kalachi, koloboks, cheesecakes, carpets, donuts were served for "sweet".

An important component of the Russian table is the traditional Russian gingerbread. Before the advent of sugar, gingerbread, like other sweet dishes, was cooked with honey. Therefore, gingerbread was originally called honey bread. Later, when various spices delivered from India and Eastern countries began to be used for dough, honey bread became known as gingerbread.

Gingerbreads were baked mainly for the festive table, since many of the ingredients of the gingerbread dough were among the expensive products. Large printed gingerbread has long been considered a good gift for various holidays, weddings, birthdays, name days. For special occasions, huge gingerbread weighing up to 5 kg was baked. Gingerbread with letters became the first alphabet for children.

Gingerbread made with various fillings and seasonings. In addition, gingerbread was of various shapes: oval, round, rectangular, figured - and sizes. After the widespread use of sugar in the diet of Russian people, gingerbread began to be covered with sugar icing. In different regions of the vast country, there were special recipes for making gingerbread. The most famous were and remain Tula gingerbread.

The Orthodox Church has made its contribution to the formation of Russian culinary traditions. Numerous fasts, during which it was impossible to eat meat, dairy, fish dishes, made pastries with mushroom, vegetable and fruit and berry fillings an indispensable component of nutrition. For many religious holidays, special types of pastries were prepared, for example, Easter cakes and Easter cakes to celebrate the Resurrection of Christ.

Famous Russian pancakes and bread

Separately, it should be said about the world-famous Russian pancakes. They have long been the hallmark of Russian national cuisine. Traditional Russian pancakes were baked from yeast dough and were quite thick. Later, with the advent of European traditions in Russian cuisine, they began to bake thin pancakes.

They were eaten with honey, vegetable oil, sour cream, jam. In addition, pancakes were stuffed with meat, cereals, cottage cheese, mushrooms, vegetables, berries and fruits.. Pancake pies with various fillings were made from pancakes. Although pancakes were often baked, over time they became the main festive dish for Shrovetide. Small pancakes (fritters) were prepared from sponge dough. Various fillings were added to the dough for fritters, creating a wide range of flavors for this product.

Traditional Russian bread has always been black bread made from rye flour. Bread was one of the main dishes, it was consumed a lot, especially with stews, cabbage soup, okroshka, fish soup and other first courses. Rye bread is mistakenly considered food only for the common people. In fact, black bread was served at the table in merchant, boyar, and noble houses.

White bread made from wheat flour began to be baked much later than rye. It became the food of the mostly urban nobility. Many Russian landowners preferred traditional Russian cuisine, despite the misconception that Germans and French were the cooks in the landlords' homes everywhere.

In addition to rye and wheat flour, Russian cuisine used other cereals for baking. Agriculture was the main occupation in Russia.

The respectful attitude to the hard work of the farmer is reflected in many rituals, customs and traditions of the Russian people. Guests have long been greeted with bread and salt, the bride was showered with grain at the wedding, the farewell to the deceased did not pass without a funeral kutya.

A separate section in Russian cuisine that has not changed over the centuries is numerous preparations. In many regions of Russia, the weather was cold for nine months of the year. Because of the weather conditions, the housewives tried to prepare as much food as possible for the future. Various methods of food preservation were used: salting, smoking, soaking, pickling. Shchi was prepared from sauerkraut or soaked cabbage, it was added to cereals, to pies. Soaked apples were also actively used as treats or additions to main dishes. Pickles have become ingredients in many traditional Russian recipes. And salted or dried meat, fish were served at the table when the fast ended.

Festive Russian dishes

Russian cuisine combined ritual and practical functions. For the holidays, certain dishes were prepared, each of which had its own meaning. In poor families, some ingredients were replaced with cheap ones, but the meaning was not lost from this. The main holidays were Christmas, Maslenitsa, Easter, weddings, birthdays.

Traditional Russian food

Each nation has authentic dishes that every tourist is recommended to try. The food of Russia is an acquaintance with the way of life of the people and immersion in traditions. Not all Russian dishes prepared five hundred years ago can be tasted now. But some of the recipes are still popular and show the diversity of Russian cuisine.
Traditional Russian recipes: