Cut gladioli stand longer what to do. How to cut gladiolus flowers? Cut inflorescences of gladiolus
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Gladiolus is a beautiful and elegant flower. It is grown, as a rule, for cutting, because in the flower garden the most beautiful large-flowered varieties have to be tied up to protect them from lodging. Agree, all sorts of supports are not the best decoration. But cut flowers look great, and stand in the water for quite a long time.
For those who want to extend their life in a vase, our today's recommendations are addressed.
The undoubted advantage of the gladiolus is that, when cut, all the flowers of the inflorescence bloom gradually. The downside is the lack of flavor. True, in the 50s of the last century, breeders received the first varieties with a weak aroma (Acacia, Sweet, Fragrans, Yellow Rose, etc.). Breeding work in this direction continues now. However, fragrant varieties have not received wide distribution among flower growers, since they are significantly inferior to unscented ones in terms of decorativeness.
Gladiolus inflorescences are cut at different times of the day, depending on the temperature and the availability of moisture to the plants. With moderate daytime temperatures, sufficiently moist soil and in cloudy weather, gladiolus can be cut at any time of the day. If the summer is hot, then the best time for cutting - early morning.
Cutting can be done when the first bud is half open. In this case, all gladiolus flowers gradually open and inflorescences remain in water for 10-15 days. Many varieties with dense corrugated-folded petals in the phase of a colored bud open the flower rather slowly. Such inflorescences are best cut after the opening of two or three lower flowers.
It is very important when cutting the inflorescence to keep as many leaves on the plant as possible (at least at least four). If you leave only 2-3 leaves, then full-fledged corms and babies will not have time to form. Such corms, if they do not die during winter storage, then the next year they form weak plants.
To cut off as long a peduncle as possible and keep the maximum number of leaves on the plant, I use the following technique. On the flat side of the plant, at the divergence of the fourth and fifth leaves, I make a puncture across the stem with a narrow knife sharpened on both sides. Then, with the movements of the knife to the left and right, I cut the stem as much as possible. You can make the same incision on the opposite side. Holding the plant with my left hand below the puncture (so as not to pull it out of the ground and not damage the roots), with the other hand I break the stem, bend it slightly and, carefully twisting the peduncle, release it from the leaves.
To prevent disease damage, it is necessary to disinfect instruments as often as possible. When cutting a small number of inflorescences - after each plant. For this purpose, it is good to have several knives (they are easy to make from pieces of an old hacksaw blade) to use alternately, after each cut, immersing the blade in a disinfectant solution (alcohol, a strong solution of potassium permanganate, etc.).
Cut flowers as soon as possible (preferably immediately) should be placed in vessels with cold water and left in a cool room for 1-2 hours. After that, for transportation, the inflorescences are bundled, lightly sprinkled with water (drops should not fall on the flowers), packed in thick thin paper, placed in long cardboard boxes, closed with a lid, fastened with adhesive tape. In this form, inflorescences can be transported over long distances (1-2 days). For long-distance transportation, it is necessary, after cutting, to lower the ends of the peduncles (by 3-4 cm) into molten paraffin (30-35 ° C). After the paraffin has hardened, the flowers are wrapped in paper. In this form, they can be stored at a moderate temperature for three to four days. After unpacking, the stem is cut by 1-2 cm and immediately placed in deep vessels with warm water (35 ° C) for 1-2 hours (in a cool, bright room). Gladiolus in buds after treatment of the stems with paraffin and packing in parchment paper can be stored for two to three weeks in the refrigerator (at a temperature of 1-3 ° C). If cut flowers are meant to be sold quickly and have a lot of open flowers, then they are best placed directly in buckets of water. For the stability of the inflorescences, the buckets are covered from above with a large-mesh lattice.
With timely cutting, gladiolus inflorescences stand in a vase for up to two weeks. It is only necessary to remove the fading lower flowers in time, change the water in the vase daily, each time slightly cutting the stems before putting them back in fresh water.
To better preserve fresh gladiolus inflorescences, various compositions of nutrient and preservative mixtures are used. Here are some of them:
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0.8 g of potassium alum, 0.3 g of potassium chloride, 0.2 g of table salt, 15-20 g of sugar;
one crushed tablet of aspirin or activated charcoal;
a few crystals of potassium permanganate or citric acid;
a few drops of ammonia or camphor alcohol;
one teaspoon of table salt or boric acid;
10 g of pine extract and 50 g of sugar;
50 g of sugar;
one cap of liquid fertilizer "Effect" per 5 liters of water;
0.3 g of silver nitrate per 1 liter of water.
There are many ready-made chemicals for extending the life of cut gladioli: "Buton-2", "Tsvetin", "Nora", etc. It must also be remembered that the life expectancy of flowers after cutting largely determines the quality of water. The softer the water, the longer the life of cut flowers. It is better to use distilled, settled, boiled or rain water.
Every hostess is pleased to see a beautiful bouquet of tall and lush flowers on the table in the living room, which can remain fresh for a long time. In order for the appearance of flowers to please the residents of the house and their guests, you need to know how to keep cut gladiolus in a vase using the simplest and most affordable methods that do not require expensive preparations. First of all, experts tell those who wish how to properly cut a gladiolus, because an unsuccessful cut can not only shorten the life of cut flowers, but also damage the bulbs and make them unsuitable for subsequent planting. Gardeners believe that the stem of the gladiolus should be cut in the place where the cut will be closed by the remaining leaves. They will cover the damaged stem and prevent water from rain or watering from entering. as a result, a correct and healthy corm will form, which will give beautiful flowers next year.
Of great importance for the preservation of flowers in a vase is the weather in which the stems are cut and the time of day. Flower growers warn that it is best to cut in the morning, before 11 o'clock and in the evening after 18 o'clock. If it is a cloudy rainy day, gladioli are cut at any time, because they have accumulated enough moisture to make the flowers feel comfortable. It is known that the flowers on the stem begin to bloom from the bottom, so cutting is carried out when there are 2 or 3 fully bloomed flowers. However, quite often gladioli are cut in the state of buds, in which case they will take shape gradually and there will be several fresh flowers on the stems within 10 or 15 days. When corrugated dense gladioli grow in a flower bed, you need to wait until 4 or 5 lower flowers bloom, only after that they can be cut and placed in a vase.
EXPERT OPINION
Before placing the gladiolus in a vase, you need to check the cuts of the stems, they should be fresh, smooth and made a little oblique. They especially carefully examine the flowers bought in the store, or donated by someone they know. If necessary, the tips are cut a little and after such processing they are placed in a suitable dish. It should be borne in mind that the stems should not rest against the bottom of the vase, otherwise they begin to bend and the bouquet will lose its beautiful appearance. Sometimes they use a special device that allows flowers to be suspended, you can make it yourself or purchase it at a flower shop. Knowing how to store cut gladioli, the hostess will have a beautiful fresh bouquet on the table for 10 days or even 2 weeks.
To better preserve the bouquet of their gladioli, it is desirable to create a suitable environment for them, for which various substances are lowered into the water. The most well-known remedy is aspirin, the tablet of which should be crushed and the powder poured into water prepared for flowers. Not less than effective way- adding granulated sugar, in one liter of water you need to dissolve a couple of teaspoons of sugar and pour the solution into a flower vase. Similarly, they use activated charcoal (1 tablet), ammonia (3 drops), salt (1 teaspoon, or vinegar, which you need one tablespoon. Each housewife has her own recipe in order to keep a beautiful bouquet for a long time.
If gladioli are cut correctly and in a timely manner, they will remain fresh and attractive for at least 10 days, but the water must be changed every day or at least every other day. It is best to use chilled boiling water, but if you can pour spring water into the vase, the flowers will undoubtedly last even longer. Withered flowers must be cut off, and the tips of the stems should be trimmed a little each time the water is changed. Such care is quite enough to keep gladioli in a vase fresh and beautiful for quite a long time.
You can start cutting gladiolus flowers when the first lower flower fully blooms on the peduncle. Gladioli stand in the water for a very long time and alternately open every single new bud, from bottom to top. It is necessary to cut flowers so that the corm does not have time to use up all the reserves accumulated for a successful wintering for flowering. Each grower approaches the issue of cutting flower stalks in his own way. Some recommend breaking out the peduncle so as not to transfer various infectious diseases of gladiolus from plant to plant during cutting. It is good to follow this rule, but in practice it can be very difficult to break off a flower without disturbing the root system, since along with the twisting of the gladiolus arrow, the bush easily turns out of the ground. Therefore, it is better to pierce the peduncle with a clean, pointed knife, and then carefully break it off.
When cutting flower arrows, we always try to get as tall flowers as possible - these are the ones that seem to us the most decorative and suitable for a gift bouquet. But we must also remember that when cutting the gladiolus peduncle, it is imperative to leave as many leaves on the plant as possible, since the more leaves remain on the gladiolus, the larger and more enduring the corm grows. But since the leaves of gladioli are often high on the flower stem, flower growers cut the flower along with the leaves. The right way out in this situation lies in a simple solution: it is enough to feel with your hand in the leaf fan the place where the convex peduncle passes and with the help of a sharp flat blade of the knife with the other hand pierce the peduncle itself through the fan of leaves. Then gently, holding the puncture site with one hand, try to break and pull the peduncle out of the rosette of leaves with the other hand.
Gladiolus inflorescences are cut in the morning, leaving at least 4-5 lower leaves on the plant. Flowers are placed in a vase, regularly changing the water and updating the bottom cut. Withered buds are removed as they bloom on the peduncle. To keep the gladioli in a vase for longer than 2 weeks, add half an aspirin tablet or a few crystals of citric acid and half a teaspoon of sugar per 1 liter of water to the water. To decorate bouquets, instead of leaves, ordinary calamus leaves are added to high flower arrows, which are very similar to noble gladiolus leaves and go well with flowers.
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1. TIPS FOR PRESERVING CUT FLOWERS
2. HOW TO EXTEND THE LIFE OF CUT FLOWERS
3. CUT GLADIOLUS
4. CUT GLADIOLUS
5. GLADIOLUS SHOW IN RIGA
6. Working with flowers after cutting
7. Cut. Features of cutting cultivation.
8. PREPARATION OF GLADIOLUS FOR THE EXHIBITION
TIPS FOR PRESERVING CUT FLOWERS (based on the book by A.A. Karpov "Gladiolus. Growing, design, sale" Ros-tov-on-Don, "Phoenix", 2002) Bull№14
The bouquet will be beautiful only if it is made up of fresh, unfaded flowers. How to keep the bouquet fresh? Correctly chosen cutting time (stage of development of the plant and time of day) and a tool, possession of the secret of extending the life of each particular type of flower - that's all the wisdom.
Flowers are best cut in the evening, when a lot of water and nutrients accumulate in the tissues, which increases their durability. Cut flowers in the evening are placed in water and placed in a cool place until morning. You can cut the flowers in the morning, when they are most saturated with water. F Before making a bouquet, the flowers must be “watered” by immersing their stems completely (up to the heads) in water, covering them with paper and placing them in a cool place for 1.5 - 2 hours.
The ends of the stems are cut off by 1 - 2 cm to restore their suction capacity. Cut or break off the stems should be under water.
* Excess leaves on the stem must be removed, as this will reduce the evaporation of moisture and improve the appearance of the bouquet.
* For storage, a cool room with a temperature of 10 - 15 ° C and air humidity above 60 - 70% is preferable. Drafts are harmful to flowers.
* Flowers last much longer in soft water - rain, snow, distilled. Tap water is preliminarily defended.
Water temperature also matters. Preferred water with a temperature of 16 - 18°C, cold in summer (6 - 8°C).
* To suppress microorganisms that are always present in water and cause rotting of plants, copper or silver coins can be thrown into the water or vinegar, potassium permanganate, citric or boric acid can be added.
Cutting gladioli is carried out at the stage of full disclosure of the first flower in the inflorescence. There are recommendations to cut gladioli in the middle of the day, when the flowers fade slightly. When cutting in the morning or evening, the flowers can be held for half an hour without water until the tissues soften. This prevents excessively rapid opening of the buds. To preserve the cut, the stems are split after cutting and placed in cool water. So that the stems do not bend, they must hang without touching the bottom. To speed up the opening of flowers, 1-2 top buds are removed. In water, you can add, per 1 liter, a crushed tablet of aspirin or activated charcoal, a few crystals of potassium permanganate or citric acid, a few drops of ammonia or camphor alcohol, a teaspoon of salt or boric acid, a tablespoon of sugar along with table salt (on the tip of a knife) . Sprinkling water on inflorescences and leaves has a beneficial effect. In the cut, each flower lasts 2 days, the entire inflorescence - 7-9 days. To revive faded flowers, the ends of the stems are dipped in warm (30 ° C) water for a short time, and then kept in cold water in a cool room for 1-2 hours.
The revitalizing effect of hot water on withered flowers is explained by the fact that the conductive vessels in the stems expand under the influence of heat, and the water begins to be absorbed by the plant again. Under the influence of hot water, the buds begin to bloom. This is especially important when low air temperatures in autumn slow down or completely stop the blooming of flowers and they have to be cut in the form of buds.
Cut gladioli are well transported over long distances and, after special preparation, can do without water for 2 days. Plants are cut in the early morning hours in the phase of 1-3 open flowers and 5-6 colored buds. The inflorescences are tied in bunches of 20 pieces and kept in a dark, cold place (1-3 ° C) for a day in a 20% sucrose solution with the addition of 0.1 g of silver nitrate or 2-3 g of coniferous extract per 10 liters of water. Then the ends of the stems are dipped in molten paraffin to reduce the release of moisture. After such processing, the flowers are wrapped in soft, then in thick paper and placed in corrugated cardboard boxes. After transportation, the ends of the stems are cut with secateurs by 5 cm and kept in a sucrose solution with coniferous extract for a day. Flowers persist for at least 10-12 days. So that the flower does not fade longer, early in the morning, before pollen ripens, anthers are plucked with tweezers. Varieties with a very dense texture of the petals are better cut.
HOW TO EXTEND THE CUTTING PERIOD OF GLADIOLUS
E. I. KHORKOV, head of the flower growing laboratory Floriculture magazine 1963 No. 5
In Moldova, you can get early cutting of gladioli starting from June 1, medium (usual) - from July 1-5 and late - until November 15-20.
Early cutting is of great interest for use within the republic and for export. It can be grown in greenhouses, greenhouses (warm and cold, covered with frames or film) and in open field- with the use of grown planting material.
The table shows the approximate timing of the beginning of flowering when cultivated under different conditions (according to 1962, when the summer was cold).
So, if flowers are required by the beginning of June, warm greenhouses are used, and if by the middle of the month, cold ones.
For planting, young corms with a diameter of at least 3 cm should be selected. Plants from them bloom earlier than from small ones. Gladioli are planted in warm greenhouses in mid-February (but not earlier, since after installing additional boxes it is difficult to maintain a positive temperature during prolonged returns of cold weather), and in cold ones - at the end of the month. Greenhouses must be covered in advance with frames so that the sun warms the soil. At first, cold greenhouses are covered with mats for the night. Grown gladioli can be planted in open ground from March 10, if the soil has already thawed.
Grow gladioli before planting in greenhouses or open ground in 20-25 days. For this we used sawdust, earth mixture, humus earth cubes.
In addition, we tested the effect of thermal baths and moistening of corms without a substrate, which, however, almost did not accelerate the onset of flowering. But thanks to the planting of corms grown in substrates, flowering began 10-14 days earlier. Growing in humus earth cubes turned out to be the most convenient for production.
The mixture is prepared from humus, loamy soil and sawdust (3; 1: 1), 100 g of superphosphate is added to each bucket and moistened with plenty of water. It is placed in boxes (preferably picking ones) with a layer of b-7 cm. Then corms are pressed into the substrate in rows and divided so that each is in the center of the humus earth cube. Before stuffing with a mixture, the bottom of the box is covered with sand or sawdust, then it is easier to remove the cubes when landing in the ground. The boxes are placed on top of each other with gaps of 3-5 cm in a dark, warm room or under the shelves of greenhouses. After the beginning of germination, you should arrange them under the racks in one row. The first 14-16 days are watered only 2-3 times. After the plants reach 12-15 cm in height, they are planted in a permanent place. For planting in warm greenhouses, we start growing on January 15-20, in cold greenhouses on February 1, in open ground on February 15. Its duration depends on the temperature of the room and the gladiolus variety. At what distance should gladioli be planted in greenhouses? We tested many ways of planting and came to the conclusion that plants develop better with a feeding area of 300 square meters. cm (20 X 15 cm). However, if it is reduced to 100 sq. cm (10 X 10 cm), we will get 6% less early flowers, but the total yield will be higher. Therefore, we grow gladioli in greenhouses with a feeding area of 100 square meters. cm.
Caring for plants in greenhouses consists of fertilizing, regular watering and building boxes as the leaves grow.
The first feeding should be given in the 3-4 leaf phase (25-30 g of ammonium nitrate per 1 frame), the second in the 5-6 leaf phase (25 g of ammonium nitrate and 10 g of potassium chloride), the third in the budding and flowering phase (40 g of superphosphate and 10 g of potassium chloride). Fertilizers are applied in liquid form.
Not all varieties are suitable for early culture. Of the 13 varieties tested, we recommend only 7 for warm greenhouses (Lavender Dream, Glory von Nordvik, General Gordom, Gold Dust, Schneeprincessin, Leivenhorst, Cantata). Further tests will expand this range. For cold greenhouses, in addition to those named, Berolina and Casvallon varieties are also promising.
A few words about the features of the culture of gladioli for cutting in the open field. In an industrial economy, no more than 30 varieties should be grown. The best planting material is healthy young corms, at least 2-2.5 cm in diameter, grown locally. When planting old, flat corms, many plants dry out in the middle of summer.
Landing should be done as early as possible. Sometimes, after thawing of the soil and warming in the second half of March, a cold snap sets in. In 1962, snow even fell, which lay for 15 days. However, this did not harm the corms. Therefore, they can be planted at the first warming in March. Then, at low temperatures and sufficient water supply, the root system develops better. In addition, planting is taking place at a time when field work has not yet reached maximum stress.
In the future, plant care is carried out as usual. The duration of flowering of each variety is 30-40 days. Therefore, in August, you can have a cut from early, medium and late varieties. For production, it is important to get it in a short time. If you do not thicken the plants and plant corms of the same sort, you can reduce the length of flowering. However, only systematic clan selection can achieve friendly flowering on plantations.
In late autumn, you usually do not buy other flowers, except for chrysanthemums. The climate of Moldova allows you to have gladioli almost until the end of November. After 2-3 early autumn frosts, warm weather sets in at the end of October. In some years, there are no frosts until November 15-20 at all. Therefore, until October 20, cutting can be obtained in open ground, and later from electric greenhouses free at this time.
To obtain a late cut in the open field, gladioli are planted until mid-July. Later planting can be done only in areas where, during early autumn frosts
plants could be protected by sprinkling with medium jet sprinklers. Even later, they can be planted only in greenhouses with electric heating, which is turned on at negative air temperatures.
Tiraspol, Moldovan Research Institute of Irrigated Agriculture and Vegetable Growing
HOW TO EXTEND THE LIFE OF CUT FLOWERS
Magazine "Floriculture" №4 1989
The time has come for the mass flowering of most ornamental crops, the time for numerous exhibitions, holidays, and arrangement competitions. Yes, consider that bouquets flaunt in every house, office space these days. Both those who grow flowers in their garden and those who buy, of course, want to prolong the brief moment of their life in a vase. Of course, cut plants are short-lived at any time of the year, but in hot weather this is exacerbated by particularly unfavorable conditions for their transportation and preservation without special equipment, which industrial floriculture enterprises have. However, there are public rules for collecting and preparing flowers for further use. Therefore, we think that all categories of our subscribers will read with interest the material published below, prepared according to the book by I. S. Utenko "Flowers in bouquets and compositions" (Leiizdat, 1988). Composition by V. Kalva
Cut flowers lose their attractiveness in two cases - they fade or fade. Wilting is associated with the very nature of the plant. Each of them has its own limit, when any efforts are already useless. For example, some chrysanthemums stand in water for 30 days, and hyacinths - 3. But there are other reasons: strong evaporation, a long stay without water, difficult absorption by its stems. In winter and early spring, flowers do not live long, cut in too dry and warm greenhouses without preparation for new conditions of detention.
The process of withering is to a certain extent reversible, but even if a flower can be revived for a while, its quality and further preservation deteriorate.
To admire the bouquet for as long as possible, you need to know both the general rules and the specifics of handling individual crops.
GENERAL RULES
Before harvesting, the ridges are watered abundantly, then the flowers are allowed to dry. In the open ground, you can not shoot them in the rain - brown spots may appear on the petals. The most favorable time is the evening cut (in the afternoon), when a significant supply of nutrients accumulates in the tissues. The removed flowers should be immediately deeply immersed in warm water for at least 2 hours (hours), and even better for 8 hours. It is more convenient if this period of so-called soldering, or “rest”, falls at night.
You can work early in the morning, when the plants are well saturated with moisture, but do not delay until noon - at this time, increased transpiration takes place in the tissues and the cut quickly fades. In extreme cases, they proceed as follows: the ridges are watered in advance, containers with water are placed next to them, where flowers are placed without delay, covering them from above with damp paper or film. But in general, during the day it is supposed to perform the operation only in cloudy weather.
A long oblique cut of the stem increases the moisture absorption surface and is less in contact with the bottom of the dish. Soft shoots are removed with a sharp knife (scissors crumple the fabric), dense shoots with secateurs; hollow - necessarily along the knot, and not along the "empty part". The ends are cut lengthwise before being placed in the water.
Many flowers last longer if they are cut under the node, where the leaf petiole leaves the main stem. However, if a bush, such as roses, still needs to produce new shoots, it is recommended to remove the peduncles above the node, and before placing them in the water, repeat the operation under it. Indeed, in the garden one must try not to violate the beauty of plants that continue to live and decorate the site.
So that the stems do not bend during storage, a metal or plastic support with cells in the upper part is placed in the container.
It is very important to catch the desired degree of flower development. So, daffodils and tulips are cut in buds; aquilegia, anemones, gladioli, irises, cannes, lilies, lupins, mallows, montbrecia, peonies - in half-opening; marigolds, garden carnations, delphinium, doronicum, sweet peas, digitalis, forget-me-nots, roses, rudbeckia, phloxes - half and fully blossomed; asters (annual), cornflowers, gaillardia, gelenium, dahlias, gypsophila, cosmos, snapdragons, marigolds, sunflowers, scabiosa, chrysanthemums, zinnias - in full bloom. Alyssum, pansies, Godetia, Clarkia, Levkoy, Nemesia are taken out of the ground with roots.
For proper care of cut flowers, you need to have: a sharp knife, secateurs, a small nail file, candles (better painted), a watering can with a long spout, a spray bottle, adhesive tape, thin rubber hoses, wire, ceramic or enameled water containers.
ARRANGEMENT: A FEW TIPS FOR EVERY HOUSE
Flowers should be carried down the street wrapped in paper, inflorescences down. For long-distance transportation, the ends of the stems are wrapped in damp paper, and then in a film. The finished bouquet is placed in a plastic bag. Plants should not be exposed to wind, drafts and sun. Before you put the flowers in a vase or collect them in a bouquet, you need to refresh them.
Remove damaged leaves and petals, as well as lower leaves from the part of the stem that will be immersed in water. In lilacs, dahlias, hydrangeas, some large leaves, as well as side shoots, should be removed to reduce evaporation through their surface and facilitate water access to the flowers.
The ends of the stems are cut with secateurs under water by 2-2.5 cm, without removing them from the dish. This prevents the vessels from clogging with air bubbles, and they can easily absorb moisture.
Before putting the plant in water, it is recommended to make longitudinal cuts at the bottom (5-10 cm) on hard shoots, and split the ends of woody branches (5-7 cm) or knead with a hard object and remove the bark from them. The hollow stems are sometimes pierced at the top with a needle to allow air to escape and water to enter more easily. Then follows a "rest" for 2-8 hours.
* Adiantum, poinsettia and some other plants secrete a milky juice when cut, sealing the conductive vessels, and without special treatment quickly wither. To prevent this from happening, the ends of the stems are split and burned in the flame of a candle (gas burner) for 10 seconds (s) or lowered for a few moments into almost boiling water. In order not to spoil the flowers and leaves, they are tied in a plastic bag and taken away from the peahen or fire. After the thermal procedure, the stems are deeply lowered into cold water.
* Clivia, daffodils, which secrete a sticky liquid, are immersed for a few seconds in hot water or for a minute in warm, after which they put it in cold storage.
* Slightly wilted flowers revive - like: cut under water, sprayed from above, covered with wet paper and lowered ends into water with a temperature of 30-40 ° C (to expand the vessels) until it cools.
* For a short-term "resurrection" of dahlias, hyacinths, gillyflowers, chrysanthemums, zinnias, as well as roses, lilacs and other branches of shrubs, there is a slightly different technique. Having updated the sections, as expected, the flowers and leaves are wrapped in paper or placed in a plastic bag. The ends (2 cm) are placed in hot water (80-
90 °) - thick stems for 20-30 s, thin - for 10 s. Then the plants, tightly wrapped in paper, are immersed in cold water.
* It has been established by practice that only gladioli and marigolds live longer after a short dry storage. It is very important for the rest of the flowers to immediately replace the amount of moisture that they had before cutting. The water used should be clean, settled (tap - within 5-10 minutes), in winter - better than room temperature, in summer - cool. Mineral salts, sugars contained in the stems, passing into the water, activate the microflora in it, especially in a warm room. The mucous substances that accumulate at the cut delay the flow of moisture, which is why the ends need to be updated.
Every evening, the plants are taken out of the vase, the ends are washed under a tap, then lowered into a container of water (some use settled mineral water), cut by 2 cm and left overnight in a cool place, covered with a damp newspaper. Excessive evaporation of moisture can be reduced by spraying from a spray bottle.
*| In order not to disassemble the composition, you can place it overnight in a basin and let a cold stream flow into it from a tap.
* If you put pieces of ice in a vase, it will give the flowers freshness and replenish the decreasing amount of moisture.
* Keep all utensils absolutely clean, wash daily with hot soapy water and a little ammonia.
* To increase the humidity in the rooms where the cut is located, place open containers with water or spray it around the plants. At the same time, you need good ventilation, but without drafts and sudden temperature fluctuations. In an unventilated room (storage), petals and stems deteriorate, ethylene is released, which can ruin the entire batch of flowers, cause wrinkling of the petals, premature fall, loss of turgor, color changes, etc.
* Many nutrients and bactericidal substances contribute to prolonging the life of cut flowers. Washed pieces of charcoal, carbolene tablets (activated carbon), which remove unpleasant odors and coloring substances, protect water from decay.
In microdoses, alum, calcium chloride, borax, hydrazine sulfate, camphor alcohol, glycerin, table salt, ammonia, vinegar are used. Since flowers stand longer in an acidic environment (pH 3.0-4.5), the reaction of plant cell sap must be taken into account. So, in Hybrid Tea roses, it has a pH of 4.6, callas - 4.8, cyclamen - 4.4.
To bring the pH of the liquid from 7.0 to 4.0, as is required for cut carnations, delphinium, levkoy, snapdragons, roses, lilacs, add 3 tsp to 2 liters of water in a vase. (teaspoons) granulated sugar and 2 tbsp. l. (tablespoons) of vinegar or a few crystals of citric acid.
Bulgarian flower growers give such recipes based on 1 liter of water:
15 g of sugar, 0.8 - alum, 0.3 - potassium chloride, 0.2 g of table salt;
10 g of glucose or 15-20 mg of glycerol;
1 tsp table salt (from decay, especially in the summer).
We also have proprietary products on sale, such as the liquid Nora preparation (the dosage is indicated on the package).
* Carnations, gladioli, lilies, peonies, roses, tulips, chrysanthemums (preferably in half-life) can be kept in a home refrigerator for several days. After soldering, they are tightly wrapped in a damp newspaper, tied in a plastic bag and placed in the lower chamber (4-5 °). For longer storage, it is necessary to take out the flowers from time to time, renew the sections and, after holding a little in water, return them packed to the chamber. Once in a warm room, such plants bloom very quickly.
Below is information about both garden and greenhouse and indoor plants widely used in bouquets and arrangements.
Azaleas are cut when a few flowers open on a branch. It costs 5-10 days depending on the variety. The ends (2-5 cm) should be split, and the branches in the vase should be regularly sprayed with water.
Acacia silver ("mimosa") is short-lived, especially in dry air - the flowers fade after pollination. To delay this process, the shoots are placed in a plastic bag and stored in the refrigerator. In compositions, you should not put "mimosa" with other flowers, as it quickly fades and has to be removed.
Alstroemeria is removed from the bush with the opening of the first buds in the inflorescence. It is excellent in a bouquet of 10-18 days. The leaves are brittle and must be handled with care. The stems quickly rot, so the vase must be washed when changing the water.
Anthurium Andre has a strong elastic peduncle. Decorative up to 20 days. A. Scherzer is also used in small bouquets and boutonnieres, although it is commonly referred to as a pot crop. Keeps fresh for 2-3 weeks.
Chinese aster lives in a cut form for up to 14 days. It is useful to put it overnight, renewing the ends *, in a sugar solution (1 tsp per 2 l). The leaves wither before the inflorescences, they are removed, replacing with other greens. Prematurely drooping asters are revived in warm water.
Fragrant viola is tied into bunches and kept together with flowers in water until the stems become elastic. Then wrapped in parchment to preserve the smell and put in cold water. Lives 4-7 days.
Cloves (repair), bringing home, break off in knots, remove the lower leaves and immerse in cold water to the heads. The stems are cut periodically. Contribute to the preservation of 2-5% sugar solution and other drugs recommended above. A thin spray of water is also useful. Some use pine extract. Flowers can be refrigerated until used. Properly grown and processed produce costs 15 days or more.
Dahlias are removed in full dissolution, kept in the cold (water and room). The bouquet is abundantly sprayed with a spray bottle. Revitalize the inflorescences by treating the stems with hot water (see above).
Gerbera is ready for cutting when 2 rows of anthers ripen in the inflorescences. It is broken out at the base, immediately cut and immersed for an hour deep in warm water, after which it is moved into a container filled with no more than 5 cm. You can pierce the stem at the top and bottom or cut it along the bottom (this will help better absorption). Change the water frequently and renew the ends. If the peduncles become soft and drooping, they are transferred to a tall vessel with a grate at the top. In this case, the stems should hang without touching the bottom, and the baskets should lie on the surface of the grate. After some time, the legs straighten out, gain elasticity. Then the gerbera is again put into the water (5 cm). A paper or cellophane funnel is put on the inflorescences during transportation and storage. They live in a vase for 7-10 days or longer.
Hyacinths are split at the bottom and kept in water, wrapping the inflorescences in paper to preserve the smell. If they fade prematurely, treat the ends with hot water.
Hippeastrum is cut off when the first bud is almost open. The flowers break off easily, which makes them difficult to pack and transport. Hollow stems are split and placed overnight deep in cold water, sometimes they are pierced to release air. It is good to add ammonia to the vase (1 tsp per 4 l). Before arranging, the stem is filled with water and plugged with a cork. Each flower lives 4-6 days at 20°C.
Gypsophila perennial is removed in full dissolution.
Gladiolus cut off when the second lower flower begins to open, preferably in the middle of the day (at this time the petals slightly lose turgor). If you have to do this in the morning or in the evening, then let the plants lie for half an hour without water until the tissues soften (in this way they delay the rapid blooming of the buds). Then the stems are cut, split at the bottom and left overnight in water at room temperature in an upright position (set obliquely bent). To speed up the opening of the ear, remove the top buds. In general, it remains fresh for 7-10 days. Spraying it and leaves is useful.
Large-leaved hydrangea quickly withers without processing. It must be cut off when half of the inflorescence has opened. Split the ends (2-3 cm), remove excess leaves and lower the stems 5 cm into boiling vinegar. After 30 seconds, they are placed in cold water or pre-fired (see above). You can immerse the inflorescences completely for several hours. In baskets or bowls, the stems are placed in a plastic bag with wet moss.
Sweet peas must be cut under water, placed no deeper than 5 cm, preferably in a 1.5% sugar solution (2 tsp per 1 liter). We must try to prevent drops and splashes from falling on the petals.
Irises are removed when the first bud opens. Each flower lives 1-2 days, and the period of general decorativeness is 7-9 days.
Callas, cut, put deep in cold water (including leaves). Ends are updated daily. Inflorescences live 10-15 days, and the buds do not fully open.
Clematis has recently been widely used in arrangement. It is cut in water and deeply immersed along with the leaves. Adding a few drops of alcohol or vinegar helps restore freshness.
To l and in and I, which many grow in pots and tubs, keeps well in a bouquet for 14-20 days, depending on the number of buds. The stem secretes a juice that is soluble in warm water.
Garden lily of the valley is cut in the garden or in pots when the lower flowers have opened, and the a-buds have turned white to the very top. To preserve the aroma, the inflorescences are wrapped in paper. The stems are placed ends in the water. Freshness lasts 3-7 days. Before making a hand bouquet, lilies of the valley, taken out of the water, are hung upside down for a while (this increases turgor).
CUT GLADIOLUS
Floriculture magazine, 1970#4
About one of the profitable flower crops of open ground on the collective farm. S. M. Kirov - gladioli. On an area of 0.8 ha, we annually cut 120,000 flowers worth 25,000 rubles. and we collect 60 thousand corms of the 1st analysis for 9 thousand rubles. In total, we get 22 thousand rubles from gladioli. arrived. We grow only the first grade products, the height of the flower arrow reaches 80-100 cm.
Until 1970, we had 12 varieties of gladiolus in our assortment. However, practice has shown that for industrial cultivation it is more profitable for a farm to have 3-5 varieties that are in demand among the population. Such varieties as Rastrelli, Kommunar, Olga Chekhova, Lavender Dream, Giippita have proven themselves well.
We grow planting material ourselves. For reproduction, we have a plot of 0.2 hectares, where we grow one hundred varieties of piece and weight baby. In one season, a piece baby grows to corms of the 2nd analysis. We are growing a weight baby for 2 years.
We place gladioli after vegetable crops. Our soils are sandy and acidic. low-structured, therefore, in the fall, we bring semi-rotted to the site. manure at 50-60 t / ha, dolomite flour (5 t), bringing the reaction of the soil solution almost to neutral (pH = 6-6.5). Then we plow the soil deeply (by 25-30 cm) and harrow, and in the spring we have to plow again or disk with heavy harrows, because the soil swims from the spring melt waters. A month before planting gladioli, we increase the temperature in the storage to 12-13 ° C, which improves the germination of corms.
We plant tubers of the 2nd and 3rd parsing and partially of the 1st (especially valuable varieties). Before planting, we powder them with TMTD or keep them for 12 hours in a solution of trace elements (potassium permanganate 0.2 g, copper sulfate 0.3 g, boric acid 0.2 g, cobalt nitrate 0.005 g and zinc sulfate 0.1 g, dissolved in 1 liter of water). The width of the ridge is 70 cm, the row spacing is 80 cm, the planting is 3-line, the distance between the lines is 18-20 cm, and the row is 6-8 cm. We place about 130 thousand pieces on the site.
With this planting, the flower stalks do not bend and the yield of flower cut per unit area increases. A tighter planting cannot be done, since the peduncles are very elongated and the quality of the cut is reduced. We make wide aisles for better ventilation of plants, mechanical tillage and installation of an irrigation system.
We plant to a depth of 6-7 cm (3 corm heights). With a deeper planting, seedlings appear later, the sprout is pulled out, the plant develops worse, and the quality of flowers decreases. A shallower planting also has a bad effect on the development of plants: the corm may be exposed, the plant will take root poorly, the peduncle will be bent.
When planting the furrow of the cast, we powder with TMTD. If the soil is dry, be sure to water it. 7-10 days after watering or rain, we mulch with a 12-centimeter layer of peat. This retains moisture, delays the development of weeds and contributes to a better warming of the soil.
In favorable years, gladioli can be planted in mid-April, if the soil warms up to 8 ° C, we usually do this from the end of April until May 10. Small frosts (minus 2-4 °), which occur in early May, are not dangerous for seedlings. Early planting dates allow you to have cut flowers at the end of June, when they are most appreciated.
During the growing season, we weed the gladiolus 5-6 times, feed it with dry fertilizers 3 times, loosen the soil 3 times and water it 6-7 times. We work the aisles with a horse cultivator, and we weed the rows by hand. When loosening the plants, we slightly spud.
We always feed after watering and loosening the soil. We give the first top dressing with urea or ammonium nitrate (15-18 g / sq. M) with the mass emergence of seedlings (height 8 cm). Fertilizers are embedded in the soil. The second time we feed with full mineral fertilizer during the laying of the flower arrow. We mix ammonium nitrate or urea with superphosphate and potassium salt (2:3:4) and add 200 g of chalk to neutralize the mixture per 10 kg of fertilizer. Potassium chloride is not used. Fertilize for the third time before flowering. We exclude nitrogen from top dressing, and give superphosphate and potassium salt in a ratio of 2: 3.
For watering plants, we use a portable sprinkler system KDU-55M, which is very convenient for work.
During the period of coloring the buds, we carry out several varietal cleanings. We pull out non-varietal plants together with corms and destroy them. At the same time, we also remove plants affected by diseases.
We have little damage to gladioli from agricultural pests. We destroy the garden scoop manually, and we introduce hexachloran into the soil against the wireworm (10-15 g per 1 linear meter).
We usually start mass cut flowers in mid-July. We cut the flower stalks with a sharp pruner and immediately send it to the stores. (We do ego in the morning, until 10 o'clock). When cutting, leave 4 leaves on the stem so as not to reduce the quality of the corm.
A straight peduncle with 3-4 colored buds is considered standard. We tie cut gladiolus in bundles of 50 pcs. In this form, they are well transported.
With a large number of flowering plants in dry weather, we cut the flowers in the evening and leave them until eel in a cold (6-8 °) dark basement without water (the light causes the tops of the peduncles to bend).
Before digging up corms, we mow the stems of plants 8-10 cm from the soil surface. Then we collect the remains of plants with a wooden rake or pitchfork and remove them from the site.
We dig up the corms by hand, in good weather we dry them in the sun and put them in boxes in storage. We dry for 2-3 weeks at a temperature of 28-30 ° C and strong ventilation. Then we separate the remnants of the mother bulb and stems, destroy the diseased and damaged, sort by analysis and store in boxes in piles at an air temperature of 5-6 °, a humidity of 60-70% and good ventilation.
In winter, during the storage period, we look at corms every 3-4 weeks, we reject all patients.
In 1969, at the International Flower Show in Erfurt (GDR), our collective farm received a silver medal for exhibits of gladioli (Rastrelli variety).
V. Kvaskovv, art. agronomist, Sidorov, foreman Kolkhoz im. S. M. Kirova
CUT GLADIOLUS
Magazine "Floriculture" 1972 No. 9 (2)
Readiness of corms for planting. Corms are considered ready for planting if they are dug up at least 100 days before a new planting. This period can be extended up to 120 days if you dig in hot weather. Such material before planting should be placed for 90 days in storage with a temperature of about 3 °.
When examining the bottom of the corm, pay attention to the appearance of roots. This is the second sign that you can start landing.
Healthy corms. The next thing you need to be absolutely sure is that your corms are healthy. To check, they take 50 pieces from different areas, remove the scales from them and carefully look for signs of fusarium, which gives dark brown, dim spots of different sizes on the surface that penetrate deep into the corm and cannot be removed without damaging it. Not to be confused with scab, which is not dangerous in cut flowers as long as it does not spread too much and covers 30% of the corm surface.
Distinguishing scab from fusarium is very simple - it gives contrasting rare blackish or black-brown spots that are easily removed with a fingernail or penknife without damaging the corm.
To check for botrytis, several corms without scales are cut horizontally. If any color changes are visible (brown spots or streaks appear), then the disease is already in its initial stage and after planting it will undoubtedly progress.
P o d o t o t o v a p o h u. The soil for planting should be moist and well-cultivated so that the corms can immediately start growing. The optimal reaction of the soil is slightly acidic (рН=6.5). Planting material of any analysis, which immediately fell into favorable conditions, usually produces strong and healthy specimens during the growth period.
Fertilizer. In order for fertilizers to give the greatest effect (in areas with a warm climate, it takes 80 days to cut before planting, and in colder weather - 95-100 days), they are applied first before planting. The ideal ratio is N: P: K = 5:10 :10, on lighter sandy soils - 6:8:12, be sure to add all the trace elements.
The amount of necessary fertilizers ranges from 70 to 140 kg per 1 thousand square meters. m, depending on the structure and type of soil. On heavy soils, 70 kg (5:10:10) will be enough, and on sandy soils, twice as much (6:8:12) will be required. As soon as the shoots reach 2-3 cm in height, fertilizers are applied a second time - in the aisles in the same proportions. For areas with very poor sandy soils, add another 70 kg (6:8:12). In the case when there were too heavy rains and some fertilizer was washed out, another 140 kg are applied (6:8:12).
On heavy soils, fertilizers are scattered in a strip 8 cm wide at a distance of 8 cm from a row of gladioli on both sides, on sandy soils - 17 cm from a row with the same stripes.
When the plants are in the 5-6 leaf stage and have dark green foliage, they don't need any fertilizer. However, if there is even the slightest blanching, add a maximum of 18 kg (20:0:20) between rows to give the plants one last push before flowering.
Planting and cultivation. One of the most important points for obtaining large flower arrows of excellent quality from corms of any sort is the distance between them when planting. Plant no more than 12 plants per linear meter, Row spacing of at least 90 cm, These recommendations are of course only for those who want to grow top quality arrows. If you are satisfied with their mediocre quality, you can plant corms more densely; but keep in mind that overly thickened plantings will give a large number of too thin arrows, and the number of buds will decrease, the flowers will be smaller.
After the corms are planted, they are covered with a layer of soil no more than 5 cm. With this agricultural technique, they germinate quickly and give a strong wide leaf. After the appearance of the second leaf, inter-row cultivation should be carried out so that the plants are hilled by 2-3 cm. With the advent of the 3rd, hilling is repeated. This is very important, and the time of this operation must be observed. If you are late, the plants will begin to sprout side shoots and remain squat; if you carry out hilling too early or cover the corms with too thick a layer of soil, it will take a very long time for the sprouts to get to the surface.
When planted shallow, the plants, as a rule, turn out to be weak and low, cannot withstand the slightest wind, turn out to be twisted and stunted. When planted deep, the flowering time is pushed back and the plants produce thin flower arrows. In the latter case, rotting of the root collar may begin in the early stages of growth.
P about l and in. This is a very important process and must be carried out very carefully. First of all, choose a well-drained area. Gladioli need abundant watering, but do not tolerate stagnant water. Try to keep the humidity in the fields at the same level all the time. However, when the arrows begin to emerge from the leaves, increase watering. When the flower stalks have reached the desired size and are ready for cutting, it reduce to make the crop more durable.Cut flower stalks in this case, better absorb fresh water, the flowers will look more beautiful and last longer.
Holland
GLADIOLUS SHOW IN RIGA
Magazine "Floriculture" 1974№9
The republican specialized exhibition of gladioli is organized annually in Riga, it is held in several streams, which allows showing a large number of varieties - both early and late. Botanical gardens, specialized farms, collective farms, stations for young naturalists, schools and, of course, amateur flower growers take part in it. The number of participants ranges from 30 to 10, they demonstrate 400-100 varieties. The exhibition is attended by up to 20 thousand people.
Varieties of gladioli are grouped by color. Each variety is labeled with its name. The florist's name is not given. On the best copies that can claim prizes, there is a number or motto. The organizers of the exhibition keep envelopes with information sealed in them (the owner's name and the list of varieties exhibited by him). Only after the evaluation, the commission opens the envelopes and finds out the names of the winners. This ensures complete objectivity of the assessments.
Breeders usually have their own separate stands. Two cups are awarded at the exhibition, one for the one who exhibited the best gladioli (as a collector), the other for the best selection work.
There are many requirements for all gladioli exhibited at the exhibition. Such indicators as the number of simultaneously blossoming flowers and colored buds are taken into account. These figures depend on the size group. So, for Giant, the total number of buds should be at least 19, of which 7 have blossomed and at least 5 are colored; in Large-flowered - respectively 20, 8 and 6; Medium-sized - 19, 7 and 5; Small-flowered - 18, 6 and 5; Miniature - 15, 5 and 4.
The inflorescence should have the correct shape, gradually tapering towards the top, and the flowers on a flexible, but elastic, fairly strong peduncle should be arranged in 1 or 2 rows.
The jury pays great attention to the quality of the flower. Well-developed flowers testify to high agricultural technology. Since on specimens with very large flowers it is easier to notice all irregularities in the structure of the ear, the arrangement of buds, etc., therefore, medium-sized and Large-flowered varieties are most often among the champions and leaders. But, of course, Giants, provided that they meet all the requirements, can also become champion M I.
The color of the flower is also carefully evaluated. Recently, varieties with a clean, juicy color, without dashes, strokes and specks, have been especially valued. Often ((mottling) is also rubbish
a trade sign, but, as a rule, such "variegated" gladioli do not fall on the stand of champions. Varieties with a spot of a different color look original, if its shape is clearly limited and harmonizes with the main color of the petals.
Gladioli must also meet other requirements - they must bloom well in water, be resistant to fading in the sun, and also resistant to rain and dew, the color of the iks must be attractive both in natural and artificial lighting.
All listed qualities are usually evaluated by the jury on a 100-point system. The champion of the exhibition is determined by the maximum number of points.
How to get plants that can qualify for high marks? The best flowers give annual corms (grown in one year from a baby, but not yet blooming), with a diameter of at least 3 cm. But such a corm in the ground can only be obtained in the south, while in other areas it is necessary to artificially lengthen the growing season.
In advance, in the previous season, it is necessary to select a strong healthy baby. Before sowing (at the beginning of March), it is cleaned from the shell, immersed for 30 minutes. in a dark pink solution of potassium permanganate. They are sown in boxes 10-15 cm high (their bottom is made of wire mesh and lined with soft paper in several tnoea), filled with a mixture of peat and leaf humus (1: 2) with the addition of wood ash (2 kg per 1 cubic meter of mixture). Seeding rate - 200-300 pcs. per 1 sq. m (in a box, gladioli should grow 7-8 months). Before germination, it is necessary to water with warm water (25 °). After the emergence of sprouts, they need a bright place (14-20 °). As soon as the weather conditions allow, they begin to gradually harden the plants, taking them out into the open air (at first they shade from the sun's rays). In case of frost bring into the room. When the frosts stop, the boxes are pinned into previously prepared, humus-rich soil, where they remain until autumn.
All summer it is necessary to treat plants for the prevention of pests and diseases with pesticides, feed them, cover them with a film during autumn rains.
With the approach of frost, the boxes are brought into the room, where the plants continue to be fed with phosphorus and potassium until they begin to turn yellow.
These corms, with proper agricultural technology, will form next year
It is necessary to provide them with the following conditions: a sunny location, rich in humus, deeply loosened soil, regular watering (20-30 liters per 1 sq. m per week), top dressing with mineral fertilizers and microelements. The N:P:K ratio is preferably 1:4:2. They are applied at least three times - immediately after planting, during the development of the third leaf and during the period when the arrow exits.
Already in February, corms need to be cleaned of dry scales and placed in a box in one row with sprouts up so that they do not bend. Planted when the soil temperature at a depth of 10 cm reaches 9-10 °. For 1 sq. m plant no more than 30 pcs. corms.
If it was not possible to grow planting material during one season, two-year-old corms can also be used, leaving only the central sprout with them, removing the rest with a pointed spoon or a rounded knife blade. This operation is done not earlier than three months and not later than three days before landing. The surface of the cuts is sprinkled with charcoal powder with sulfur. During the growing season, it is recommended to spray several times with a 0.15% solution of potassium permanganate, especially during the development of the ear.
Two weeks before the start of flowering, it is desirable to treat the plants with a 0.2% solution of calcium nitrate so that the ear is more stable. Lateral inflorescences, as soon as they appear, must be removed. After the buds are fully formed, you can try to slightly straighten the position of the lower flowers with a thin elastic band (after wrapping the bud with thin paper).
When the number of flowers per ear is determined and it becomes clear whether this specimen is suitable for exhibition, it is necessary to give this support.
Flowers should be cut no earlier than 4 days before the exhibition, in the early morning, or in the evening, after sunset. Sometimes you have to cut an ear with buds, so it is important to know which varieties open well in water. If there are 5 blooming flowers on an ear, it is cut off the day before the exhibition, with 4 flowers - 2 days before. Unblown inflorescences placed in water are recommended to be taken out into the air so that under the rays of the sun the flowers open faster and their color becomes more saturated.
Before the exhibition, it is better to attach cut inflorescences to a smooth support so that their tops do not bend. When the inflorescences are already placed in a vase, you can carefully straighten the flowers.
There are several recipes for extending the life of cut flowers. They are well preserved in solution: 0.8 g of aluminum potassium alum, 0.3 potassium chloride, 0.2 g of sodium chloride (common salt) and 15-20 g of sugar (or glucose) per 1 liter of water.
You can also use one of the following substances: 1 tablet of crushed aspirin or activated charcoal; a few crystals of potassium permanganate or citric acid; a few drops of ammonia or camphor; 1 teaspoon of table salt or boric acid (per 1 liter).
"To better preserve fresh gladiolus inflorescences, various compositions of nutrient and preservative mixtures are used. Here are some of them:
0.8 g of potassium alum, 0.3 g of potassium chloride, 0.2 g of table salt, 15-20 g of sugar;
One crushed aspirin or activated charcoal;
Several crystals of potassium permanganate or citric acid;
A few drops of ammonia or camphor alcohol;
One teaspoon of table salt or boric acid;
10 g of pine extract and 50 g of sugar;
One cap of liquid fertilizer "Effect" for 5 liters;
50 g sugar.
Known for a large set of chemicals to extend the life of cut flowers of domestic and foreign production. The most suitable for gladioli are the preparations "Buton-2", Tsvetin, Maroogki's solution, Pora and others. We must also remember that the life expectancy of flowers after cutting largely depends on the quality of the water. The softer the water, the longer the life of cut flowers." Lisyansky "Gladiolus"
Cut. Features of cutting cultivation.
Bulletin of the Moscow Gladiolus Club No. 9
Through trial and error, on my own, not always successful experience, I realized that it is necessary to start with determining, no matter how loud it may sound at first glance, the market capacity and effective demand of the population. Moreover, this work is read long before the planting season - the previous summer and autumn. If there is an overabundance of flowers in your region throughout the summer time, then most likely it is not worth taking on cutting. Grow flowers for the joy of yourself and your loved ones. True, no one forbids you to visit neighboring regions ...
On the other hand, if you see that there are many flowers, but the purchase prices are much higher than your planned cost, then you can take a chance. If you notice "failures" in the market with flowers in certain periods, then this gives you an extra chance, and you should take this into account when choosing varieties and planting dates.
An important point is distribution channels. Already ahead of time, you should know with a sufficient degree of certainty where you will sell your product. Ideally, in the autumn you should conclude futures contracts for the supply of flowers. It is also convenient from the point of view that it is possible to get a free forecast for the development of the market, to consult which varieties will be in greater demand.
The most crucial moment is the choice of varieties, which differs significantly from the choice of varieties for "beauty" and from growing on a corm. Perhaps earlier I would have named certain varieties, since there were 24 developed positions "in service". But, over time, having simultaneously mastered late and then early cutting, I came to the conclusion that not every variety has sustainable productivity in artificial conditions. So out of 24 varieties for late cutting, only one remained fit, and for the early cut, three varieties, unfortunately, of lesser decorativeness, were selected. To draw any conclusions, one has to observe the variety for at least five years with the appropriate variety testing.
Here are some of the parameters by which varieties are selected:
1) The cutter's collection should contain varieties with different flowering periods (early, medium, late) - in order to avoid overstocking and ensure uniform receipt of goods ready for sale. But the dates indicated by the originator (author) are "conditionally approximate", so you have to keep a diary of observations in order to take the arithmetic mean of mass flowering readings in open ground (with a constant planting schedule) for 3-5 years on your land.
2) In each color scheme of gladiolus, it is also necessary to have varieties with different flowering periods, in order to have the same assortment throughout the season, or to shift the planting dates of one variety.
3) It is necessary to take into account the rate of aging of the variety - its ability for several seasons from the replacement corm to give stable results in terms of the quality of the inflorescence.
4) The yield of the variety (the number of inflorescences per 100 corms planted) should not be lower than 120. Simultaneous flowering is the key to the success of the cutter.
5) The less susceptible the variety is to changes in the environment, diseases, unpretentious to the soil, the less trouble it brings when growing.
6) Place of sale of flowers, regional and ethnic preferences of buyers dictate the choice of colors for your collection for cutting.
7) The fashion for corrugation, the height of the peduncle, the number of simultaneously open flowers and other characteristics should also be taken into account.
8) It is considered good form to have "exotics" in the collection - super-new varieties; but we should not forget that over time, "exotic" may be the most common common flower.
9) The most profitable varieties are those whose inflorescences can be stored for a maximum time without water, and when placed in water, they can keep the maximum number of simultaneously open flowers without loss of quality. From practice, I can say that a number of varieties grown by me withstand storage in buds without water for more than 20 days.
All this should be taken into account while you are still "on the shore" and have not set foot on the shaky ground of a cut flower grower.
It's time to turn your eyes to the ground. You already know what and how much you will grow, now you need to decide where and how to do it. ;
The cutting area must have the following parameters:
Proximity to the place of permanent residence; ,
The presence of fertile soil, good roads and water;
Outbuildings for sorting, drying and storing planting material, as well as finished goods;
The possibility of protecting the site (which is very important in our socio-economic situation);
Good relations with local administrations, and most importantly - with local residents, their neighbors.
From my father, I heard a good phrase, which not only I remember for the rest of my life, but also became the meaning of my life on earth. - "Plant, but do not" plant "your land." Indeed, there have been many cases when an unreasonable owner squeezed all the juice out of the earth in 5-6 years, after which, not only what was collected, but also under a green lawn, this land became unsuitable. It is necessary "to have a four-five-fold supply of planting areas in order to be able to apply crop rotation when cultivating a monoculture."
Recently, I often observe the excessive industriousness of some flower growers. The soil is dug up for a season up to 4-5 times. Judge for yourself: autumn spring, pre-planting digging, digging corms and other processing. But after all, the structure of the soil is disturbed, the communities of microorganisms that make the earth alive do not have time to fully develop for such short term which can lead to their death. I understand that this is a controversial position, and there are a lot of respected flower growers who hold the opposite point of view, but ... let time judge us. Ideally, everyone who picks up a shovel is obliged, if not to graduate from the agricultural academy, then at least to pass an exam for the right to work with the land. In all civilized countries, this practice has long existed.
About mineral fertilizers. Personally, being their active opponent, I try to introduce organic matter into the soil, but still I keep a certain amount of mineral fertilizers in stock (both nitrophoska and Kemera-universal-2, etc.). Most likely, there should be a reasonable combination of both. As General Platov used to say when sending Lefty to England: "Don't drink a little, don't drink a lot, but drink in pleportions." The flower grower must know the content of chemical elements in the soil. For this, it is necessary to carry out soil tests. But if this is not possible, and the quality of the grown flowers is satisfactory, do not change the established technology.
One of the most crucial moments is the landing time. Knowing by what time you need to get the finished product and how much time a particular variety needs for the growing season, you need to plan your "sowing calendar" so that the flowers are at the right time and in the right quantity. With this approach, the farmer does not proceed from the realities of the climate, but from his needs. Of course, both risk and labor intensity increase here, but the rhythmic delivery of flowers to the market is worth it.
He will assume that by planting gladioli, we happily avoided frosts, droughts, hurricanes, hail, diseases and hungry insects bypassed us. The Earth thanked us for the hard work of the "digger", and something appeared for which we started everything: our grief and joy, our joy and sorrow - our first FLOWERS this season!!!
For most of us who were brought up in Soviet time, the most difficult thing comes - flowers must be made a commodity. In short, sell. But let's go in order. We will assume that you have something to cut, and you know how to cut. A small nuance: you need to know exactly what to cut. Depending on how your gladioli will be transported to the point of sale, you need to cut at different periods of the vegetative development of the inflorescence. Moreover, in some cases, a cut flower needs to be kept on the water for a certain time so that it can better endure the "surgical operation of amputation from the root" and not wither during transportation. Simplified, it looks like the table below.
A few words about the transport packaging (not to be confused with the arrangement of the bouquet). It also depends on what and where you will take the gladioli. Almost all the "wisdom" fit in the following table.
The season is over. Time to count profits, losses and prepare for the next season. The cutter who will buy all the planting material for the next harvest is bad. It is cheaper, and most importantly, more reliable, to grow your own corms from children. I will dwell on only one "golden" rule, which must be strictly observed at the same time - corms of each variety and each year of life must be stored separately. Only in this case will you know exactly what flowers you will grow after planting, and how many more periods of productive vegetation are given to each plant. The number of annual sown tubers (children) of this variety depends on this (with a certain number of corms required for cutting). It should also be borne in mind that in juvenile corms of the first analysis, the flowering period begins two weeks later than adult corms, and in smaller sections - even later. If more than 50% of the babies flourish in certain varieties, then this can also be taken into account when planning plantings.
And the last thing: a good cutter not only has all the conditions (due to the number of cultivars) for breeding work, but is simply obliged to do it. Through clonal selection, the grower can improve the botanical characteristics of the originally released variety. Only in this case it is possible to have the most predictable result.
No matter how rich the collection of planting material is, we should not forget that new varieties of gladioli appear every year. Who knows which of them will not only be competitive, but also surpass the time-tested varieties in a number of indicators. So plan some funds for the purchase of new products and super novelties. The main thing here is not to be late ...
Working with flowers after cutting
Thomas Blesington (2000) (Editor's note: the article refers to flowers in general, not specifically to gladioli). BullSummer of the Moscow Gladiolus Club1992
Fresh flowers are still alive even after being cut from the plant. And their maximum possible vase life, while tradeable, is nevertheless short. Many factors can shorten the life of flowers in a vase. As with any industry, we need to be highly efficient in preserving the lifespan of cut flowers. However, there are well-known solutions to most of the problems that arise. First you need to understand why the life of freshly cut flowers in a vase is so short.
LIFE IN A VASE.
Influence of agricultural technology.
Basically, those factors that improve the quality of the cut also increase the life of the flowers in the vase. Lighting is very important. A cut grown in low light (which limits photosynthesis in plants) will have fewer carbohydrates. Flowers breathe even after being cut, and photosynthesis is low due to limited light in the packing rooms, in the store and at the customer's home. When the carbohydrate content is too low, the respiration is very weak and the flowers senesce (wither). Therefore, optimal illumination during cultivation is very important for the life of flowers in a vase.
Temperature also affects photosynthesis and respiration, which in turn affect carbohydrate storage. During hot seasons, flowers exposed to high temperatures will also have a shorter vase life due to their lower carbohydrate content.
When the temperature rises to an unfavorably hostile level, forcing early flowering, the same problem occurs.
Plant nutrition also affects the lifespan of flowers. Lack or excess of nutrition leads to a slowdown in photosynthesis and a reduction in the life of flowers in a vase. Deficiency of certain nutrients, including nitrogen, calcium, magnesium, iron, manganese, leads to a decrease in chlorophyll content, which in turn reduces photosynthesis. As a result, the level of provision of flowers with carbohydrates is reduced. High level nitrogen during flowering can have an adverse effect on cut storage quality. Diseases and pests reduce the health of plants, which directly reduces the life of cut flowers. Diseases also shorten the life of flowers and indirectly: damaged tissues release large amounts of ethylene, which accelerates the wilting of plants.
Reasons for decreasing vase life.
Fresh flowers wither for one or more reasons. The following five causes of premature wilting of flowers are the most common:
1) the impossibility of the stem to absorb water due to the blockage of blood vessels;
2) excessive water loss from cut flowers;
3) insufficient supply of carbohydrates for respiration;
4) diseases;
5) ethylene gas.
The inability of the stem to absorb water is the most common cause of premature wilting. The water pipes in the stem become clogged. In the containers where the cut is located, in the water or on the flowers, or on the foliage, bacteria and fungi live and multiply. These microorganisms and their waste products clog the vessels at the end of the stem, restricting the flow of water. They continue to multiply inside and, naturally, block the water-conducting vessels. Chemical blockade may also occur. Chemicals sometimes present in the stem are converted into resinous materials that clog the end of the stem.
Excessive water loss from flowers also leads to wilting and reduced vase life and quality. After cutting, the flowers should be removed from the field or from the greenhouse and cooled as soon as possible. Flowers left without water in warm air or a warm draft receive significant damage. Flowers should be kept in water and as cold as possible from the moment of cutting until delivery to the final consumer.
Lack of carbohydrates is another reason for wilting flowers. Low tissue carbohydrate content may be the result of inappropriate storage or processing temperatures. Breathing processes after cutting are regulated by temperature. Low temperatures reduce transpiration and conserve carbohydrates, thus prolonging flower life. At each of the many stages of the flowers' journey to the buyer, supervision is necessary. Flowers should be placed in cold storage as soon as possible after cutting. They must be refrigerated during ground transport and during storage at the wholesaler and retailer. There are serious losses if flowers are left for a day in a warm air terminal, in a car unloading dock, in a greenhouse, etc.
The harmful effects of ethylene. Fruits, especially apples, emit a large amount of ethylene gas, so it is undesirable to store flowers together with fruits in the same refrigerator compartment. Ethylene is formed in plant tissues and contributes to the destruction and aging of tissues. Refrigerators should be kept clean of plant debris, such as stem and leaf clippings, that may accumulate on the floor. Old unsold flowers should be thrown away. Ethylene has many harmful effects, and in particular, it causes premature aging and wilting of flowers, which is usually irreversible.
Preservatives to prolong the life of flowers.
Flower preservatives perform three functions:
1) provide sugar (carbohydrates);
2) maintain bactericidal activity to prevent microbial growth and clogging of water-conducting vessels in the stem;
3) acidify the solution.
The most popular preservatives now contain 8-hydroxyquinoline citrate (8-H<ЗС) и сахарозу (обычный сахар). 8-НрС является бактерицидным и по-кисляющим веществом. Кроме сдерживания развития бактерий и понижения рН раствора, 8-НС^С также предотвращает химическую блокаду, тем самым способствуя поглощению цветами воды. Сахароза поддерживает качество и тургор стебля и продлевает жизнь цветов, обеспечивая их углеводами. В торговле продается целый ряд консервантов, включая "Флоралайф", "Петалайф", "Оазис", "Рогард", "Иверблюм". И они хорошо работают. Можно также купить 8-НрС под названием оксин цитрат в компаниях, обслуживающих флористов, и добавить сахар, чтобы сделать консервант.
The bactericidal effect of 8-HpC is not absolute in preventing the development of bacteria in flower solutions. Chlorine is a very effective bactericide, but it quickly volatilizes out of solution unless it is in a slow release form. Two such slow-release formulations are widely sold and found in a range of products, including bleach, deodorizers, disinfectants, detergents, pool additives, and are BICA (sodium dichloroisocyanurate) and OMH (1,3-dichloro-5,5-dimethylhydantoin). ). Each is used at a concentration of 0.03% instead of 8-HpC with the addition of sucrose at a 2% concentration. Damage to external tissues is possible when using OISA and VMN, but the excellent bactericidal effect of these substances covers the damage.
Flower preservatives are very effective in maintaining flower quality and longevity. On average, their use doubles the lifespan of cut flowers compared to water. For example, snapdragons will live 12 days instead of the expected 5-6.
STORAGE IN REFRIGERATORS.
The most common cut flower preparation system is cold storage, which includes the following steps:
1) Flower stems should be cut with a sharp knife or scissors to prevent squeezing of stems and water-carrying vessels.
2) Cut flowers should be placed in a preservative solution as soon as possible to prevent wilting. Flowers should not be left without water while they are waiting to be transferred to a storage or sorting room. If the flowers are cut in the field, then the buckets containing the solution can be loaded onto a trailer on which the flowers are placed. Flowers cut in a greenhouse should not be left in the sun or without water for more than a few minutes. A separate worker must be allocated for the immediate transfer of flowers to the storage or sorting room.
3) As soon as the flowers are delivered to the storage, they are placed in a cold store in a preservative solution. If the flowers are wilted, then they are first placed in a warm preservative solution (room temperature) until the turgor is restored. And after that they are placed in the refrigerator.
4) The temperature in the refrigerator compartment should be approximately 0.5-4°C. Low temperatures are preferable because the rate of breathing decreases with decreasing temperature. A low breathing rate has the same effect as adding sucrose to a preservative solution, i.e. also preserves carbohydrates in flowers. In flower refrigerators, a temperature range of 1.5-4°C is commonly used.
5) The air in the refrigerator should circulate slightly, just so that the temperature is the same in all places of the chamber. Unprotected flowers that fall into a direct stream of air dry out. Flowers located next to the refrigeration coil may freeze even if the temperature is above freezing. Since the temperature of the spiral itself is below the freezing point, it seems to take away the heat emitted by the flowers, and the temperature of the flowers can be lower than the ambient temperature.
6) Potential sources of ethylene gas such as vegetables and fruits should not be kept in the refrigerator along with flowers. Throw away old flowers. Flush the inside of the refrigerator periodically.
7) Replace the preservative solution periodically, at intervals of 2 to 7 days. The preservative should be periodically checked for bacteria, the growth of which is obvious when the solution becomes cloudy. Despite the bactericidal properties of the preservative, microorganisms develop in it, and they must be destroyed periodically. To do this, it is enough to wash the buckets with a disinfectant, such as bleach.
DRY STORAGE.
Flowers can be refrigerated for one to three weeks, depending on the species. Cold storage is more often used as an auxiliary during the passage of flowers through the trade chain. Dry storage is used when flowers need to be kept for 1 to 5 days.
Only high quality flowers can be stored dry. Flowers of poor quality will not last long in a vase after storage. Flowers in this case should be packed immediately after cutting without the use of water. Standard flower boxes are suitable for this, but they are lined to cover the flowers and retain moisture.
Drying out of flowers can become a problem during long periods of storage, especially if absorbent packaging such as cardboard is used.
A common problem with dry storage is the presence of moisture on flowers, which encourages disease development. While flowers freeze at temperatures below -1.5°C, water freezes at 0°C. And the ice crystals that form on the petals can damage them. Boxes and flowers packed warm receive condensation water when the plants and the air inside cool. Since polyethylene does not allow moisture to pass through, water cannot evaporate. And diseases that develop in such humidity are the most common case of dry storage failures. To avoid this, boxes with flowers are cooled open in the refrigerator to 3-4°C, then the flowers are already closed and placed in a refrigerator with a temperature of about 0°C.
Most flowers freeze at a temperature of -2.5-1.5 ° C, so it is natural that the temperature should be maintained above this. At a storage temperature of +0.5°C, the expected lifespan of flowers decreases and falls rapidly as the temperature rises above this. Many dry storage failures are caused by high temperature or temperature fluctuations. Since the dry storage refrigerator cannot be opened too often, another refrigerator is used to control the temperature. A -0.5°C refrigerator is often placed inside a 1.5+4°C refrigerator to provide a more constant temperature.
Initially, when flowers are loaded into storage, space must be left between flower boxes. This is due to the fact that the breathing process is going on, and heat is released during it. A large stack of boxes can generate quite a lot of heat and is insulated enough to prevent the packaged flowers from cooling properly. The free space between each stack of boxes and between each box in the stack allows heat to be absorbed by the circulating cold air.
Flowers taken out of dry storage must be "hardened". Trim each stalk from the bottom half an inch (about 1.5 cm) and place in a preservative solution inside a 3-4 ° C refrigerator. Let the flowers fully restore their turgor before sending them to the trade; this will take 12-24 hours. When properly processed, dry-stored flowers will be of good quality and will last as long in a vase as fresh ones. And the quality and life expectancy deteriorate during dry storage due to poor temperature conditions and diseases.
PREPARATION OF GLADIOLUS FOR THE EXHIBITION
North American Gladiolus Council Bui 1 etin, summer, 1989, p. 66-75 (Bulletin of the Moscow Gladiolus Club 1992)
Reginald and Marlene Powis-Libby From the author's point of view; In order for flowers to become winners of exhibitions, two issues need to be resolved. The first of these is how to ensure that plants are grown with the best agricultural practices possible under the conditions of the local climate, on a given piece of land. The second is the presentation of flowers in such a way that their merits can be fully appreciated at the exhibition. We carefully looked at exhibitions in Canada, the USA, England and made sure that the flowers are grown as well as we do. In many cases, our flowers were better than our competitors, only because of their preparation for presentation at the exhibition*
The first issue - achieving better agricultural practices - is best solved by studying the experience of other flower growers in the area.
The next important issue is the choice of varieties for cultivation. His decision should be based on knowledge of those varieties that grow well in the area and that have proven themselves as exhibition varieties. The latest information can be gleaned from the results of the Canadian symposia. North * "* of the Ernkan and British Gladnolus Breeding Societies. After evaluating the varieties in terms of their exhibition qualities, you can move on to considering them from other positions.
In North America, gladioli, which win most shows, have "square" or rounded flowers. In size classes 400-500-300, gladioli must have at least 22 buds and be able to hold enough open flowers to achieve the desired ratio of open flowers - colored buds - unopened buds (see Fig. I).
An inflorescence with wide-opening flowers usually looks more decorative, well-built than those with poorly opening ones.
There are varieties related to "light" - they grow straight in the garden and require only minimal preparation for the exhibition, they always have a slender, straight and beautifully folded inflorescence. Here are some of them: "Drama", relatively early; "The Queen", "Queen's Blush"; "Ice Cap" - late for us; Miss Minnesota, Pink Lady, Jo Ann; "Margaret Lyall" by Alex McKenzie; "Helen J. Cox" is a seedling of Cox and "Incompareybd".
Since we tie up all show standard gladioli that can be displayed, the strain's ability to produce straight flowers is not as important to us as growers who have less time to tie. h
Other strains that consistently give us a high percentage of show specimens include Ecstasy and Carrara. Both of these varieties give us excellent specimens. They prefer cool nights more than other varieties * and therefore cannot be grown equally well in all areas. Although the flowers are large (and the inflorescences are well built), nevertheless, some additional preparation is necessary to achieve the best results in the exhibition. Both cultivars hold flowers exceptionally well, although the texture of the petals is not as stiff as other show cultivars. 'Vikki Krim' also holds flowers very well and has a regular conical inflorescence, opening the flowers in sequence. 'Celebrity' produces huge, well-built buds, but has a tendency to be out of proportion. Therefore* this variety is very cr7^chen by the time of cutting. "Raja * 5," Ermin "and" Tesoro "are magnificent exhibition three hundred. From miniature we consistently get exhibition plants" Davis Memory "," Schone "," Ami Bet "," Greysia1 *, "Black Lash" and "Cl retgs,
Much of the preparation of flowers for a show is done in the field. If the competition at the exhibition is sharp, then often the only sign by which one specimen differs from another is the harmony of the inflorescence. This means that tying is very important for flowers that will be exhibited at major exhibitions. We use the garter method, which our friend Ernie Henderson has used with great success for many years. Our tying stakes are made of wood approximately 3/4" (about 2cm) wide and 1/2" (1cm) thick and in lengths ranging from 150-190cm. The stakes are sharpened at one end and the sharp edges are rounded off with a planer. The ends of the new stakes are dipped in an antiseptic, after which the stakes are painted. These stakes can be used for many years. ,
Now about the garter methods. Some plants are tied up before the inflorescence advances in order to straighten the tilted plant. In this case, the stake is placed at the plant from the side opposite to the slope. In this case, the flowers will look away from the stake, and, according to everyone, the stake is placed correctly.
In most cases, gladioli are tied up after the inflorescence has advanced, which usually tilts as it advances. The support is stuck into the ground at an angle of 90 degrees (vertical - - 16 -
but) and slightly deviates from the vertical towards the slope of the plant. The first garter for large inflorescences is often made at the base of the plant, wrapping around the base of the plant and the support. The next garter ties the peduncle of the plant, which is attracted to the stake. And above is placed a free (loose) garter. As the inflorescence advances, additional garters are made between the buds and tightly tied to the support. In the evening we go out into the garden and, moving our fingers along the support, we move the garters up as well, in order to skin: the growth possible during the night. We repeat this procedure in the morning and sometimes in the afternoon. Loose garters are also moving up.
If we leave, we ask someone else to do it for us. Often we release the buds instead, especially if the buds are just popping up and growing fast. Released inflorescences usually grow straight, and small curvatures can be straightened out when we return. On the other hand, if the garters have not been checked, then as a result of limited growth, strong bends can result, which are difficult, sometimes impossible, to correct.
We use wet raffia as a tie. Since I'm allergic to preservatives in raffia, I rinse it several times in hot water before putting it in a plastic bag. Raffia can go bad, so it's a good idea to moisturize just enough for a period of one to three days. 1/4" flex tape is also a good tying material and can be reused many times. As the flowers develop, we often tweak them slightly (to look forward) to achieve a better arrangement of the flowers and appearance. If a variety tends to open a lot of flowers too quickly, then we tend to squeeze the bottom 3 or 4 buds. On the other hand, if the variety opens too little, we can try to open 3-4 flowers next to the bottom 3-4, or a little more. All this is done in order to try to achieve a perfectly proportional inflorescence.
Participating in local exhibitions, we often cut gladioli in the morning, just before the show. However, as a rule, even for local exhibitions, we prefer to cut flowers intended for -17 - display in the late afternoon on the day before the exhibition. This necessitates tying the cut flowers into bunches, but allows for some pre-treatment.
For the distances we travel to the show, we often cut the flowers 2 days before the show. The flowers were kept fresh and we managed to win the second day competition with a long distance specimen.
When cutting flowers, take a measuring bar with you to the beds to get the required length of the peduncle (leg) set by the show rules (usually 51 cm for 300,400,500). As a rule, we add 2-3 cm extra so that we can trim the peduncle later. Sometimes you have to sacrifice the bulb in order to get a sufficiently long flower head. To be sure, cut off, capturing the two bottom leaves along with the inflorescence. If you are going to cut two leaves to get a long enough peduncle, then, in any case, this will not create a problem. Extra leaves can be removed. However, from the point of view of decorativeness, sometimes it is better to leave 3 or even 4 leaves on the inflorescence.
The number of flowers a gladiolus should have at the time of cutting depends on the variety, the size of the flowers and the time between cutting and judging. On the evening before the show, 400 size gladiolus, apparently, should open 6-7 flowers. It is natural to expect that 2-3 more flowers will open before judging. On the other hand, due to the distances we transport flowers, we usually cut them 36-48 hours before the show. Since we transport gladioli in water, they have the opportunity to develop on the way and we can cut them with fewer open flowers than if they were transported without water. Most of our plants have 3-4 open flowers when cut. Varieties such as "Ecstasy" or "Celebrity", "Moon Mirage" can be cut without open flowers, in the stage of colored buds, as they will open quickly. 'Pink Lady', on the other hand, opens slowly, so we prefer to cut it with at least 4 fully open flowers.
After cutting, we put the gladioli on the lawn in the shade and start tying them into bundles for transportation. Since it is usually hot at this time, the flowers wilt a little (lose stiffness). This is handy for arranging petals that don't always fit together well. Cleanliness of hands is essential when making preparations. The best way to learn preparation is to watch others do it and try it yourself. opening the center of the flower to achieve proper "overlapping" of flowers, eating or brushing pollen can make the difference between first place and "Grand Champion".
Correction of improper flower overlap The lower flower is pushed up and pressed against the stem while the petals of the upper flower are lifted up and stacked on top of the underlying flower. This is done from the base to the top of the inflorescence.
Flower Arrangement Correction
Placing a wad of eclipse (tampon) in the pharynx flattens the flowers and helps fill in the gaps between the flowers. The perianth on the back of the flower must be pulled back until it no longer restricts the opening of the flower. Take care not to break the stamens and pistil. The stamens and pistil must be supported while pushing the cotton ball into the throat and, more importantly, when removing it. First, a tampon is inserted into the pharynx under the pistil and stamens, then a smaller tampon above them, which holds the stamens and pistil in the center.
We usually place cotton swabs in most of the gladioli we ship. On the evening before the show, we can use additional swabs in the upper flowers to help them open and form the correct cone of the inflorescence.
The time required for the complete removal of cotton swabs must be taken into account, given the possibility of cotton hairs adhering to the flower, especially the stamens and pistil. Marlena uses a camel hair brush to remove sticky cotton hairs. She also cleans the petals from the pollen that has fallen on the vdr,
We do not put tampons in some gladioli, for example, i most of the three hundred and two hundred. In the event that the flower is quite flat and, as a result, the inflorescence seems too wide relative to its own height? cotton swabs are also not used.
Attaching the inflorescence to a wall or window also gives the effect of "flattening" the flowers. Some exhibitors actually place the flowers on a flat surface with the flowers facing down to flatten the blooms.
If you use cotton swabs at the same time as applying the inflorescences to the wall or laying them on a flat surface, then with a guarantee the flowers will always be flat.
Putting "packing trims" on the underside of the flower between the stem and flowers can prevent the edges of the petals from curling back ooa (the "trimmings" might come from shredded (cut) paper used in packaging other flowers by many companies).
Fitting (laying) petals
The central petal(s) must overlap (or not overlap) the same way in all open flowers. If one side of the leaf edge is covered by the edge leaf and you want to free it, this can be done relatively easily in most cases. If the gladiolus has an extraordinary, super-dense petal texture, then it may be best to leave small imperfections as they are. in this case, the petals break easily. It is preferable to correct the petals in t< время, когда цветки слегка "подвядают" ; следовательно, мы делаем укладку нижних цветков после того, как они чуть подвянут после срезки. Даже опытные экспоненты могут- сломать лепестки в< время укладки "свежих" лепестков.
If the flower is not unfolded correctly, then hold it in the right position for some time and adjust the petal of the flowers immediately adjacent to it in such a way as to help hold the unfolded flower in the correct position. As a rule, it is quite possible to correct the position of unfolded flowers.
The curvature of the top of the inflorescence can sometimes also be corrected by gentle manual manipulations: bend the top slightly in the opposite direction and hold for 30 seconds, if necessary, repeat.
Of the 25-65 good quality gladiolus that we intend to exhibit at a serious exhibition, only a few will be selected for detailed preparation. Even among them there will be those who will receive minimal training - that is, the petals are checked, inappropriate overlap is corrected, the petals are cleaned of pollen.
Preservation of flowers at the exhibition It is recommended to add to the water ^ in which the cut gladioli are at the exhibition, special compounds that prolong the life of the flowers (although this, of course, does not save the lower flowers from fading). / Early cutting and storage at low temperatures can extend the life of flowers by a day or two; in some cases it is possible to delay the wilting of flowers until the end of judging. On the second day of exposure, the flowers will still begin to wilt, regardless of whether a special compound has been added or not.
It remains to be reminded once again that the best way to learn the preparation of gladioli is to watch how others do it and then perform all the actions in the garden and on the gladioli that you cut for practice, yourself.
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Every hostess is pleased to see a beautiful bouquet of tall and lush flowers on the table in the living room, which can remain fresh for a long time. In order for the appearance of flowers to please the residents of the house and their guests, you need to know how to keep cut gladiolus in a vase using the simplest and most affordable methods that do not require expensive preparations. First of all, experts tell those who wish how to properly cut a gladiolus, because an unsuccessful cut can not only shorten the life of cut flowers, but also damage the bulbs and make them unsuitable for subsequent planting. Gardeners believe that the stem of the gladiolus should be cut in the place where the cut will be closed by the remaining leaves. They will cover the damaged stem and prevent water from rain or watering from entering. as a result, a correct and healthy corm will form, which will give beautiful flowers next year.
Of great importance for the preservation of flowers in a vase is the weather in which the stems are cut and the time of day. Flower growers warn that it is best to cut in the morning, before 11 o'clock and in the evening after 18 o'clock. If it is a cloudy rainy day, gladioli are cut at any time, because they have accumulated enough moisture to make the flowers feel comfortable. It is known that the flowers on the stem begin to bloom from the bottom, so cutting is carried out when there are 2 or 3 fully bloomed flowers. However, quite often gladioli are cut in the state of buds, in which case they will take shape gradually and there will be several fresh flowers on the stems within 10 or 15 days. When corrugated dense gladioli grow in a flower bed, you need to wait until 4 or 5 lower flowers bloom, only after that they can be cut and placed in a vase.
Before placing the gladiolus in a vase, you need to check the cuts of the stems, they should be fresh, smooth and made a little oblique. They especially carefully examine the flowers bought in the store, or donated by someone they know. If necessary, the tips are cut a little and after such processing they are placed in a suitable dish. It should be borne in mind that the stems should not rest against the bottom of the vase, otherwise they begin to bend and the bouquet will lose its beautiful appearance. Sometimes they use a special device that allows flowers to be suspended, you can make it yourself or purchase it at a flower shop. Knowing how to store cut gladioli, the hostess will have a beautiful fresh bouquet on the table for 10 days or even 2 weeks.
To better preserve the bouquet of their gladioli, it is desirable to create a suitable environment for them, for which various substances are lowered into the water. The most well-known remedy is aspirin, the tablet of which should be crushed and the powder poured into water prepared for flowers. An equally effective way is to add granulated sugar, in one liter of water you need to dissolve a couple of teaspoons of sugar and pour the solution into a flower vase. Similarly, they use activated charcoal (1 tablet), ammonia (3 drops), salt (1 teaspoon, or vinegar, which you need one tablespoon. Each housewife has her own recipe in order to keep a beautiful bouquet for a long time.
If gladioli are cut correctly and in a timely manner, they will remain fresh and attractive for at least 10 days, but the water must be changed every day or at least every other day. It is best to use chilled boiling water, but if you can pour spring water into the vase, the flowers will undoubtedly last even longer. Withered flowers must be cut off, and the tips of the stems should be trimmed a little each time the water is changed. Such care is quite enough to keep gladioli in a vase fresh and beautiful for quite a long time.
