Laying a parquet board: the correct organization and order of work. Laying a parquet board with your own hands Preparing and laying a parquet board

Parquet laying technology:

1. Laying parquet should start from the corner of the room from left to right. The tongue of the first board should be directed into the room. Boards can be laid from right to left and vice versa.

2. Insert the next board into the groove of the first one at an angle, press to install the board horizontally. Continue in the same way until the end of the row.

3. Cut the last board of the first row to the required length. Start the next row with the remaining segment (at least 500 mm and 300 mm for boards 1.2 m long).

4. Insert the second row board at an angle into the groove of the first row board. Tape the board for horizontal laying.

5. Place the Chers wedge under the end of the last laid board.

6. Place the end of the next parquet board on the floor at an angle and, pressing, connect the ends.

7. Remove the Chers wedge. Using a hammer block, tap the joint of the sides along the length, laying the board horizontally.

8. After laying 3 rows of parquet boards, adjust the distance from the floor to the wall. After all installation, remove the wedges between the floor and the wall.

9. Saw off the boards of the last row to the required width: place the last board of this row on the penultimate one 5 mm from the wall, make a mark at the cut site, and lay the cut board. Install the next board in the same way.

Problem: narrow (less than 6 m) and long rooms.
Solution: Lay the parquet boards lengthwise. Allow a 10mm gap along walls and fixed objects.

Problem: wide (more than 18 m) rooms.
Solution: divide the floor with an expansion joint.

Parquet laying with heating system:

Heating must necessarily be carried out evenly over the entire surface of the floor (excluding systems that supplement conventional heating). The temperature over the entire floor surface should not exceed 27 degrees. Waterproofing should be located as close to the floor as possible, its location under the beams, next to the board, is unacceptable. If there is a layer of air between the parquet board and the previous surface, the wood will dry out a lot.

Terms:

Primer – a type of primer applied to a surface to ensure adhesion between surfaces.

Vapor and waterproofing – measures to protect the subfloor from exposure to steam and moisture. Varnish and substrate are used as vapor and waterproofing.

Screed – base (cement on the floors) for flooring. The thickness of the screed is at least 4-5 cm, it dries at the rate of 2 weeks per 1 cm of thickness.

Cycling - processing of the coating, eliminating all irregularities, dirt, potholes and scratches formed during installation.

Black floor – multi-layer structure between floor slabs and floor covering.

The Leader-Parquet company is ready to offer you qualified services for installing a parquet floor: starting with the preparation of the base (concrete screed, joists, etc.) and ending with the possible finishing coating (varnish, oil, oil-wax, etc.). You can get acquainted with the parquet board collections in more detail directly at.

Indoor renovation is not only a very labor-intensive and necessary process, but at times it is also very exciting. Most of the time you have to perform monotonous manipulations, but when working with finishing materials the fun begins.

The great popularity of parquet boards is not only due to the variability of appearance, but also the ease of installation.

Material Basics and Surface Preparation

Before laying a parquet board yourself, you need to familiarize yourself with it. The material is mostly natural, so it is preferred in a number of cases. Usually there are 3 main layers, but in fact there are 5 of them:

1. Seamless veneer. Lays down softly and lasts a long time.
2. Reiki. Like the bottom layer, it is made on the basis of coniferous trees, because they have high levels of endurance and durability.
3. Layer to strengthen the ends. It is usually made from beech, but manufacturers often use conifers here too.
4. Face wood. Usually the material is selected depending on its wear-resistant qualities, but options with any wood of interest are possible. Only high-quality boards (lamellas) without chips and cracks are selected here.
5. Varnish. The number of layers depends on the manufacturer, but usually ranges from 5 to 7.

Externally, the parquet looks like a board with a tooth on one side and a notch on the back. He gained particular popularity not only due to the variability of appearance, but also the ease of installation.

It is far from always possible to start the installation on a perfectly flat surface, and leveling the floors in order to lay the parquet board is impractical. The easiest way to use chipboard for alignment, because. the slab will give the floor exactly the look you want. In this case, it is better not to use other options for operational fitting, because. a parquet board, despite its strength, may not withstand point loads on an unreinforced area (wardrobe, sofa).

Main work activity

Tools and materials:

• jigsaw;
• roulette;
• scissors;
• polyethylene film;
• scotch;
• substrate;
• parquet board;
• square;
• pencil;
• wooden block;
• hammer;
• wedges

Before you start doing anything, you just need to bring the parquet into the room and leave it there for 3 days so that it “gets used” to humidity and ventilation (the packages are not opened at the same time). Otherwise, difficulties may arise after installation due to changes in deformation.

A 0.2-0.3 mm polyethylene film is laid as a base, which serves as waterproofing. This film will reliably protect the bottom layer from external moisture, and at the same time will not allow the necessary moisture to come off, which will significantly extend its service life. It is fixed with PVC tape to the base and to each other. A backing is laid directly on top of the polyethylene, which is also secured with tape.

And only now you can lay one parquet board. The direction is chosen along the line of light or along a wide wall if there are several windows in the room (for example, facing east and west). The very first board is laid with a tooth against the wall, but the gap between the board being laid and the wall must remain, so special wedges should be used. No rigid fixation is required in this case.

It often turns out that the length of one board is not enough, so measurements are taken and 1 more cut is made using a jigsaw. You can use a fine-grained hacksaw, but it is more likely to chip.

Each next row begins with the installation of the trimming of the previous board, which will allow you not to get into the seam with the previous one, i.e. do not lose strength. After the board is inserted into the lock by hand, you need to attach an oblong wooden block to it and securely fix the material with gentle blows. This is how advancement occurs until the very last row.

The last row often has to be cut to width, because... You're not always lucky with width. Before cutting off the excess, you need to take measurements several times, and only then cut. It is optimal to use a trial cut 10-15 cm wide, which will certainly reveal errors.

When, you often have to deal with complications - pipes and internal corners, but they just need to be bypassed, cutting off all unnecessary. To do this yourself, you will need a tape measure, a square and a pencil. When bending the pipe, you will have to cut a little more, because... You need to put a piece on the back side.

Finishing touches and summing up

Tools and materials:

• roulette;
• plinth;
• screwdriver;
• jigsaw;
• self-tapping screws;
• dowels and screws;
• connecting elements.

At the very end, the wedges are removed, the baseboards are cut and screwed to the walls. If the walls are wooden, then you can immediately grab with screws, while for concrete you will have to complete the following sequence:

1. Drilling holes in 40 cm increments.
2. Driving dowels into each hole.
3. Tighten the screws until they are completely secured.

At the very end, all open areas of the plinth are closed with a special edging that blends perfectly with the surface. If the length of 1 plinth is not enough, then you need to use special connecting elements, which are also used in the corners.

In order to independently lay the parquet board in the room, it will not take much effort and time, but you need to pay full attention to the process.

Due to the fact that the material is natural, it will last a long time, and the convenience of its operation will not leave anyone indifferent.

One of the most attractive types of flooring is parquet. It allows you to create a surprisingly cozy atmosphere in the house, warm enough and with it you can create an original pattern on the floor. That is why many people decide to opt for it during renovation. But not everyone knows how to lay parquet. Consider how this procedure takes place, what are the subtleties of installing such a coating.

Parquet is a coating that is not only beautiful, but also durable and environmentally friendly. It is made from natural wood, which is why its cost is quite high. However, the material allows you to retain heat in the house, is hypoallergenic, has a service life of 25 years or more, and provides excellent sound insulation.

On a note! The main disadvantage of the material is its high maintenance requirements. He does not like water, and therefore it is not recommended to wash him often. Also, periodically the coating has to be rubbed with special compounds so that it shines and looks like new.

Parquet can be of different types, and everyone can choose the most suitable option for themselves. The material can be piece, mosaic, panel, massive, palace. There is also a separate type of parquet, which is called. All types of material differ in size, methods of laying and working with them. Some are easier to install, some are more difficult, but in any case, the material does not lose its main advantages listed above.

Prices for Tarkett parquet

parquet tarkett

Ways of laying parquet

The most common types of parquet are traditional piece, panel, and parquet boards. Depending on the type of material and type of base, the optimal installation option is selected. There are three main ones.

Table. Basic coating installation options.

The most popular method of installing parquet flooring is adhesive. It is reliable, which is what attracts craftsmen. The choice of adhesive will depend on what kind of parquet is being installed. There are the following main types of adhesive compositions.

Important! It is important to work very carefully with polyurethane-based glue. If such a composition gets on the front side of the material, it can ruin the coating.

The glue is always applied using a special notched spatula. It is thanks to them that it is possible to apply the composition in a layer of the required thickness and evenly. Sometimes, for additional fixation, parquet staples can be used, which are hammered at an angle of 45 degrees to the floor surface using an air gun.

Regular piece parquet can be laid in various patterns.

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bamboo parquet

How to lay parquet correctly? Important aspects

Laying parquet has certain nuances - although the process is simple, it still requires a responsible and correct approach. If you do not comply with special requirements, then the base will quickly collapse or lose its appearance.

1. The air temperature in the room where the work is carried out should be within + 18-23 degrees.
2. Air humidity should be no more than 45-60%.
3. Parquet must be kept in the room where it will be installed for 7-10 days before starting work. This will allow the material to “get used” to future operating conditions.
4. There should be nothing unnecessary in the room during work.
5. The base for laying parquet must be carefully prepared - leveled and cleaned of debris.
6. You should not install parquet on old, swollen and damaged flooring.

Subject to all installation conditions, as well as proper care of the parquet, the coating can serve without any complaints for 60-80 years.

Parquet base

Particular attention during preparation for the installation of parquet should be given to the rough base. It should be perfectly even and clean, it should not have roughness and bumps, otherwise the parquet will not lie down as required, and will last very little time. First, remove the old floor covering, if any. It is important to inspect joists and subfloors for damage and rot. If they are unsuitable for laying parquet, they will have to be removed and replaced with new ones. At the same time, the logs can be closed both with wooden boards and immediately with plywood. In general, the cake of such a floor has several layers - this is the concrete floor itself, logs, moisture-resistant plywood, adhesive composition and the parquet itself.

The logs should have a thickness of 5-10 cm; before installation, they are coated with protective compounds that prevent rotting and destruction of the wood. Boards or sheets of plywood are already attached to them. The easiest way to fill the space between the joists is with some kind of insulation - it will make the floors warmer, which is especially important for those rooms that are located above the basement. To install a subfloor, you should not use plywood thinner than 12 mm. During installation, it is worth considering that there should be small gaps, about 1 mm wide, between its individual sheets. Slightly larger in width - about 1.5 mm - compensation gaps are also left along the walls.

Don't forget about waterproofing. It will provide protection for both the joist and the rough base, as well as the parquet itself, from excess moisture, which negatively affects the materials from which they are made. The easiest way is to use plastic film.

Parquet can be laid not only on plywood, but also on. But it must be perfectly smooth and reliable. If necessary, self-leveling mixtures will help level it. Also, such a base must be primed to ensure maximum adhesion. Then the adhesive composition will stick to it best.

On a note! You can level the concrete base with sheets of plywood. Fastening is done using dowels.

If a new concrete screed has been poured, then further work can be carried out only after it has completely dried. The drying time for the screed is about 28 days. At the same time, you cannot speed up the process by using heating devices - in this case, the screed may begin to collapse. Installation of parquet should not be carried out on a damp base. Checking this indicator in relation to the screed is quite simple - a piece of polyethylene measuring 1x1 m is placed on it and left there for a day. Then the film is lifted, its condition is assessed from the inside. If it is dry, then you can lay parquet; if condensation has accumulated on it, then the subfloor needs to be dried.

It is recommended to cover the concrete floor with a backing before laying the parquet, if we are talking about laying the floor using the floating method, and also with the adhesive method. It will ensure the most comfortable use of floors, as it smooths out minor unevenness in the base, increases thermal insulation performance, helps distribute the load on the parquet correctly and additionally protects it from moisture.

Tools and materials

Hardwood flooring jobs may require certain tools and a range of materials. The list is indicative, as the need to use some of them will depend on the method by which the parquet is laid. May be useful:

• jigsaw or saw;
• grinding machines;
• drill, dowels and screws;
• hammer;
• measuring instruments and pencil;
• notched spatula;
• brushes and primer;
• moisture insulating material;
• adhesive composition;
• nails, parquet staples;

It is necessary to pay special attention to the acquisition of the parquet itself - the service life will directly depend on its quality. Do not buy low quality material, cheap, damaged. Also, the parquet must be chosen in a color that matches the overall style of the room where the renovation is being carried out.

On a note! Oak parquet is the most durable and reliable, as well as durable, but is quite expensive. Maple and beech materials are cheaper, but not much inferior in quality to oak.

Parquet laying process

The process of laying parquet flooring is not as complicated as it seems - it just needs to be done carefully and carefully, and then everything will work out. You should not choose a complex pattern if the master is not confident in his abilities - it is better to lay the parquet using the most common methods - for example, linear. But you can try to implement other variants of patterns or buy panel parquet.

Step 1. The surface of the rough base, which in this case is a concrete screed, is carefully ground - it needs to be leveled to perfect condition. The easiest and fastest way to do this is with a grinder.

Step 2 The resulting dust and other debris is collected with a vacuum cleaner. Corners and places near the walls are especially carefully processed.

Step 3. A layer of epoxy primer is applied to the screed. Work is easiest to do with a roller on a long handle. The primer is applied so that there are no unsmeared areas on the floor.

Step 4 An insulating substrate is placed on the base. It is glued to glue, which is applied to the prepared base using a notched trowel.

Step 5 The backing sheets are laid end to end and smoothed by hand.

Step 6 The substrate is then rolled with a heavy roller. This procedure will ensure the most reliable connection with the concrete screed.

Step 7 After this, the installation of mosaic parquet begins. The first rows of elements are placed at a small distance from the walls - a few millimeters are enough. These will be compensation gaps, which will subsequently be closed with a plinth. Parquet adhesive is applied to the substrate using a notched trowel. It is applied in small areas, sufficient for gluing several elements.

Step 8 The parquet elements are laid on the adhesive layer in joint with the previously laid ones.

Step 9 Each parquet element is carefully pressed to the base.

Step 10 When the parquet is laid and the adhesive layer has dried well, the surface of the coating is sanded with a special grinding machine. Along the walls, the material is processed with an angle grinder.

Step 11 The mosaic parquet blocks are being puttied. Using a wide spatula, a special composition is applied to the surface of the material and distributed evenly over the base.

Step 12 After this layer has dried, the surface is sanded using a surface grinder for parquet.

Step 14 The final stage is polishing the parquet.

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Video - Laying block parquet

This is how parquet flooring is installed. If everything is done in accordance with the requirements presented above, then anyone can cope with the task. However, in order for parquet to look beautiful for as long as possible, it is important to properly care for it.

One of the main advantages of parquet boards is that they do not require additional processing after installation. The material is sanded, scraped, varnished and other operations are carried out in the factory, so all that remains for the consumer to do after purchase is to correctly lay the boards on the subfloor. Thanks to a convenient locking system, installation technology is noticeably simplified, but in order to create a high-quality and durable floor covering, you need to study all the intricacies of this process.

Parquet boards differ from ordinary wooden boards in their three-layer structure:

• upper layer– valuable wood with a pronounced texture. The thickness varies between 1-6 mm, but most often it is 3.5-4 mm. To increase the decorative properties, the material undergoes heat treatment, bleaching and other procedures, and to protect against negative effects - varnishing or impregnation with oil-wax compounds;
• intermediate layer– pine or spruce slats laid perpendicular to the face layer. At the ends of the slats, tongue-and-groove or locking joints are cut, depending on the modification of the parquet board. The thickness of this layer is 8-9 mm;
• bottom layer– solid coniferous wood veneer, up to 2 mm thick. The direction of the fibers is perpendicular to the previous layer.

This arrangement of layers provides the material with high bending and compressive strength, and increases resistance to changes in humidity and temperature conditions. There are almost no chips on the parquet board, and the protective coating retains its attractive appearance for years. The standard board has the following parameters:

• width 120-200 mm;
• length 1100-2500 mm;
• thickness 10-22 mm.

There are several varieties of parquet boards, depending on the number of tiles in the top layer and the presence of chamfers on the sides.

Table. Types of parquet boards

Prices for Tarkett parquet boards

Tarkett parquet board

Pros and cons of the material

Despite the abundance of inexpensive and reliable floor coverings, the demand for parquet boards remains consistently high. This popularity is explained by the presence of significant advantages of the material:

• the coating is durable and has a long service life, is resistant to wear and can be restored;
• no need for varnishing, sanding or painting after installation is completed;
• thanks to the locking system, the coating, if necessary, can be dismantled and laid again, without deterioration in performance properties;
• installation does not require special equipment and does not take much time;
• parquet flooring looks spectacular and is suitable for different interior styles.

This coating also has disadvantages, although there are not many of them:

• lack of possibility of curly styling;
• relatively high price;
• the need for careful preparation of the rough foundation.

Methods for laying parquet boards

The coating can be laid in three ways - adhesive, floating and using fasteners (nails, self-tapping screws).

Glue method

Laying the coating with adhesive requires a perfectly flat and dry base. If there are recesses or bumps left on the subfloor, this will lead to uneven wear of the finishing layer, the appearance of cracks, and deformations. It is also more difficult to restore such a floor, since more material is removed during sanding in protruding areas than necessary, and in recesses it is not removed at all. And the presence of moisture under the floor contributes to partial peeling of the coating, the appearance of fungus, swelling and heaving. To eliminate such risks, the parquet board is glued not to the screed itself, but to a backing made of plywood or chipboard. There must be waterproofing under the substrate; additionally, you can lay soundproofing material - cork, polyethylene foam and others.

This method is used less and less often because it has more disadvantages than advantages. Firstly, costs increase: in addition to parquet boards and waterproofing, you need to buy backing material, fasteners and special parquet glue, the cost of which is quite high. Secondly, installation takes more time, because you need to cut and fit the plywood, secure it correctly, and apply glue. You cannot walk on the floor until the glue is completely dry. In addition, it will be more difficult to replace accidentally damaged areas, and the dismantled floor is unsuitable for reuse.

floating way

The laying of the coating is carried out without fixing the parquet board to the rough base. Between themselves, the lamellas are fastened using a tongue-and-groove system or a special locking connection. A small gap must be left around the perimeter of the room to prevent deformation of the floor during thermal expansion. Between the coating and the base there is a layer of waterproofing, and noise-absorbing materials can also be laid.

This method is considered the most convenient and fastest, therefore it is used by most craftsmen, and is also ideal for those who do not yet have building experience. Subject to the laying technology, the coating perfectly tolerates changes in humidity and temperature conditions, which means that the risk of deformation is reduced to zero. If individual slats are damaged, replacing them will not be difficult; the main thing is to choose the right boards based on tone and pattern. Complete dismantling of the coating will also not require much effort; in addition, the material can be reused.

Laying with fasteners

Fixing the parquet board with nails or self-tapping screws can be used in the case of laying the covering on logs or a solid wooden base, and not on a screed. Slats with a thickness of at least 20 mm are suitable for this, since thin boards can be easily damaged. The logs are laid in increments of no more than 60 cm and strictly in the same plane, since even small differences in height cause squeaks when walking. The space under the flooring must be well ventilated to avoid the accumulation of condensation and dampness.

When laying, the lamellas are positioned so that their ends meet only at the joists. The nails are driven into the grooves at an angle, and the heads are deepened with a hammer so that the fasteners do not interfere with the tight fit of adjacent boards. Such fasteners provide the necessary strength of the connection, but make it difficult to subsequently replace elements during repairs. If complete dismantling becomes necessary, the coating cannot be reused due to damaged edges.

To fasten individual parquet strips, nails are used, the length of which is 40 mm and the thickness is 1.6 - 1.8 mm

Adhesive flooring technology

Preparatory stage

They start by assessing the condition of the subfloor. Its surface should be smooth, dry, without any defects. In order not to miss minor damage, the base must first be cleaned of debris and dust. Be sure to check the screed with a level and, if necessary, level the floor with a leveling mixture. If a new screed is being poured, installation cannot begin until the base is completely dry.

During the installation process you will need:

• primer for concrete;
• moisture-resistant plywood;
• parquet board;
• tape measure and pencil;
• circular saw or jigsaw;
• drill;
• dowel-nails;
• one-component parquet adhesive;
• notched spatula;
• hammer.

Materials should be taken with a small margin, so calculate the required amount in advance by measuring the floor area. As a rule, trimming takes from 5 to 10% of the total amount of flooring, depending on the experience of the specialist and installation options.

Advice. The parquet board must be brought into the room where installation will take place in advance and left for at least a day. In this case, the temperature in the room should be within 18-25 degrees, and the humidity should not exceed 60%.

Laying the covering

Step 1. The dust-free screed is treated with a primer. If the composition is absorbed quickly, it is recommended to apply the primer in two layers, observing the time specified in the instructions for drying between layers.

Step 2 The plywood is laid out on a dry floor and the cut locations are marked. The substrate sheets should be arranged in a checkerboard pattern, with gaps 3-5 mm wide left between them to compensate for temperature expansion. A gap of 10-15 mm wide is left around the perimeter of the room.

Step 3. Using a circular saw, cut the plywood and clean the sections from shavings and dust. Dilute the glue and apply it to the concrete base where the first sheet will be located. The glue is quite thick, so it needs to be spread over the surface with a spatula. Lay the plywood, level it, and gently press it with your hands. All other sheets are glued in the same way.

Step 4 For more reliable fixation, the plywood must be fastened to the base with dowel nails. To do this, holes are drilled in each sheet in the corners and in the middle of the sides, 30-40 mm away from the edge. Dowels are inserted into the holes and the fasteners are driven in with a hammer.

Step 5 After fixing the substrate, clean the surface from dust and begin marking the floor covering. Lay the first row from the wall, fastening the boards without glue using locking joints. On the last lamella in the row, mark a cutting line and cut off the excess. Having completely laid the first row, mark its border on the substrate with a pencil and remove the boards.

Step 6 Take a new portion of glue and apply it with a spatula to the designated area. Distribute in an even layer over the entire surface, without going beyond the boundaries of the marking. The boards of the first row are laid, carefully fitting them from the ends and leaving a gap between the wall and the coating of at least 10 mm.

Step 7 The second row should be fastened with a displacement of the end seams by half the length of the lamella. Having properly cut the material, carefully cover the substrate with glue and proceed to laying. To do this, take the board with both hands along the edges, place it at an angle to the board of the first row, inserting the ridge into the groove along the entire length, then lower it down and lightly knock it so that the lamella is in place. All the others are laid out the same way.

Step 8 When laying the covering near the threshold, around the ledges and in niches, appropriately shaped cutouts are made in the boards, making sure to leave a technological gap around the perimeter. To ensure that the gap is the same along the entire length, it is recommended to insert wooden or plastic wedges 10 mm thick between the wall and the parquet board.

Advice. In the absence of experience in such work, it is necessary to control the time of fitting the boards so that the adhesive layer does not have time to dry. If the room is long, it is better to apply glue up to half the row for the first time.

Step 9 The last row often has to be cut to width. Here, in the same way, the board is applied to the surface, the cut line is marked with a pencil, and the excess is removed. Having completed the work, leave the room for 8-10 hours so that the glue hardens and securely fixes the floor covering.

After the specified time, remove the spacer wedges and close the gaps with plinths. It is not difficult to care for such a floor, the main thing is to avoid excessive moisture. When cleaning wetly, the rag must be wrung out well so that puddles do not accumulate on the floor. Accidentally spilled liquids should be wiped up immediately, preventing moisture from penetrating the seams between the boards.

Floating installation technology

A floating floor also requires a high-quality base, so the screed is prepared in the manner described above. Next, prepare everything you need for work:

• parquet board;
• waterproofing film;
• scotch;
• soundproofing substrate;
• spacer wedges;
• tape measure and pencil;
• jigsaw;
• clamps for skirting boards;
• drill and dowels with self-tapping screws.

Step 1. The prepared base is lined with a film for waterproofing, capturing the walls to a height of 10 cm. The strips of the film are overlapped to a width of 30 cm and the edge is glued with adhesive tape.

Step 2 The next layer is a heat-insulating substrate made of pressed cork or polyethylene foam. The substrate is laid close to the walls, adjacent strips are laid end-to-end.

Step 3. Begin installation of the coating. Lay the first board in the corner along the wall, with an indent of 10-15 mm on the side and end. For convenience, wedges of appropriate thickness are inserted between the board and the walls.

Advice. The boards of the first row must be laid with the ridge to the wall, but since in this case the technological gap will be wider than required, the ridges are pre-cut.

Step 4 The second board is placed next to it, leveled, its end is brought into the lock of the first and fit tightly. The last lamella in the row is first tried on, the required length is marked with a pencil and the excess is cut off with a saw, after which it is attached like all the others.

Step 5 In the second row, the boards are shifted by at least a third of the length. Laying is done in the same way, only now each board needs to be joined both along the length and at the end.

Step 6 Having reached the opening, mark the thickness of the coating on the door frame and carefully cut out a groove for the parquet board using a hacksaw. Use a vacuum cleaner to remove the resulting dust and shavings.

Step 7 Install the threshold. Place the aluminum strip on the floor and mark the fixation points through the mounting holes. Having drilled the holes, clean them of dust, insert dowels and screw the rail with self-tapping screws.

Step 8 When laying the board furthest from the threshold, the connection is additionally strengthened with glue. To do this, use a sharp knife to carefully remove the top layer of wood along the ridge, remove the shavings and apply glue in a thin continuous strip. The board is pushed under the door frame, leveled from the end and along the side line, and the locks are snapped into place. For a tighter joint, hammer the lamellas on the other side with a hammer.

Step 9 The covering is cut out and laid opposite the threshold, after which the top strip of the metal threshold is screwed on. The plank should tightly cover the ends of the boards and lie strictly horizontally.

Step 10 From the threshold, the rows are laid in the manner described above, with a mandatory gap around the perimeter of the room. If the last row does not fit in width, the boards are cut with a saw from the groove side.

Step 11 Having laid the covering, on the walls, on top of the film, mark the places for attaching the clamps for the baseboards in increments of 40-50 cm. The distances from the corners should not be more than 20 cm. Drill holes in the wall through the film, insert dowels and screw the clamps with self-tapping screws.

Step 12 Install the baseboards, then take a sharp mounting knife and very carefully cut off the protruding edge of the film so as not to leave scratches on the baseboard and on the wall.

If the technology is followed, the coating is strong and durable, does not swell or squeak underfoot. If you need to replace individual fragments, it will be enough to pry them and lift them to disconnect the lock.

Video - Mistakes when laying parquet boards

Even the most high-quality and beautiful material can be spoiled by illiterate editing - this is the bitter truth of life. Although not everyone wants to pay almost the same price as for a replacement purchase to a construction team: is laying parquet boards really that complicated? Not at all - the main thing is to know the important nuances and do everything step by step. And how exactly – we’ll figure it out now.

If after watching you still have questions, read on.

Laying technology: step by step

Let's say right away: laying parquet boards is not laying parquet or laying laminate. There really are some subtleties and nuances here.

Stage I. We purchase quality material

Today, more than a hundred types of wood are used to make parquet boards, and the initial quality is completely different. Therefore, we will give you valuable advice: purchase parquet boards only from those companies that themselves carry out such repair work. They will not order material from manufacturers that then does not fit together and creates a lot of problems. Such is the subtlety. As for the type of parquet board, the most popular today is three-layer. From the name you already guessed that it really has three layers: top, also called front, middle and bottom:

• The top working layer has a thickness from 1 mm to 6 mm (the thicker one will always withstand more grinding than the thinner one). This layer must be coated with varnish or special oil.
• The middle one usually consists of short plates of coniferous wood, or less often - of special moisture-resistant plywood. It is in the middle layer that all the connecting elements for adhesion of parquet boards are usually located.
• The bottom layer is already made of pine or spruce plywood 2 mm thick. The main task of the bottom layer is to prevent the parquet board from bending or deforming.

If you are going to lay a parquet board so that it resembles a massive one, then take a material with a solid face layer. The planks of such a parquet board can be glued in the form of “herringbones”, “braid”, “squares” or “deck”. But the most durable is considered to be the locking connection of the Swedish parquet board - the company Khars. The manufacturer claims that such a connection can withstand up to one and a half tons of tearing.

Stage II. Preparing the base for installation

The most important thing in this matter is to properly prepare the base for the board. Thus, according to unverified data, up to 90% of subsequent problems with the appearance of laid parquet are caused by the quality of the subfloor, and not by defects in the material itself. So, what is still permissible:

• 1-3 mm difference per linear meter
• humidity up to 2-3%. To check this value, use a modern moisture meter.

If the base is clearly not level and even has bulges, use special leveling compounds (only based on dry mixtures). Carefully inspect the old screed and work on peeling areas, defects and dirt. If the humidity value turns out to be higher than permissible, then lay a vapor barrier film overlapping on the floor, then sealing the joints with construction tape, or apply a special primer.

Experts recommend laying parquet boards at a humidity of 40-60% and a temperature of 20-25°C. Note that parquet boards behave more stable compared to solid wood: less responsive to changes in temperature and humidity, more resistant to static and dynamic loads.

Stage III. We put a special backing

To lay parquet boards in this way, you definitely need a backing that will separate the boards unprotected by glue from the base. It will immediately perform several important functions:

• It will even out small unevenness and defects in the base.
• Will serve as additional waterproofing.
• It will make the parquet floor even warmer.
• It will become a useful shock-absorbing layer, valuable while walking.

And finally, the underlay performs another valuable function that is rarely mentioned: it prevents the parquet board from sliding along the base in case of temperature changes. After all, screed or plaster has its own expansion temperature, and it differs significantly from the same parameter for the coating. This is the danger of not having a backing on the screed: literally a year after such movements invisible to the eye, accumulated cement or gypsum dust begins to seep through the cracks.

As a substrate you can use foamed polyethylene, extruded polystyrene foam, sheet cork or felt cardboard. This is made from materials that have been known for a long time. But today professional underlays for laminate flooring are already gaining popularity. Here is a master class on installation on just such a base:

Parquet boards are also often laid on a cork backing. After all, this natural and environmentally friendly material also has excellent noise insulation. And the technology for gluing such a substrate is extremely simple - just like with wallpaper: polyurethane glue is applied to a clean, dust-free surface and the cork is rolled with a roller. After this, you can immediately lay the boards. However, during such work, do not overdo it with glue - otherwise the cork will warp and swell with bubbles.

Stage IV. Getting ready for installation

When laying a parquet board on an old wooden floor, be sure to measure its humidity - this material is hygroscopic. You can direct the parquet boards in any way you like, but more often they are oriented along the length of the room for the sake of the organicity of the entire interior design. Although designers themselves often use floor texture to visually expand or lengthen the space. If the room is perfectly square, lay it in the direction of the light. You can even do it diagonally - however, there will be a lot of waste later.

Advice: if in a box with parquet boards you find specimens with defects or uneven coloring, leave them for trimming.

Stage V. Learning to connect boards

Different manufacturers produce their own parquet boards and give preference to a certain type of fastening:

1. By insertion method;
2. Lock connection, also called “click”;
3. Using fixing brackets or tightening straps.

The most convenient, of course, is a locking connection. The grooves and insert ridges are joined in this case without any other means - you just need to insert the ridge of the board at an angle into the groove of the other, and smoothly lower the first board to a horizontal position. After that, a couple of light blows are enough, and that's it.

Here are the main advantages of this method:

• Quick installation;
• There is no need for additional equipment or facilities;
• Wood has room for thermal expansion.

If in some place in the room you cannot lift the board for joining, then simply use a hammer with a block. Yes, this will require considerable precision and accuracy. Tip: when joining the covering to the door frame, start laying with the board placed under the jamb.

The insertion method, of course, is inferior to the previous one: with this installation you constantly have to use a block and a hammer, and replacing damaged boards in the future will take a lot of time. But it is easier to place such boards near heating systems and door frames, and the grooves and insert ridges are less likely to be defective.

But laying parquet boards using staples or a belt fastening system is more used for parquet boards that have a thickness of 15 to 21 mm. The boards themselves still need to be glued together, and it will be difficult to disassemble the floor in the future.

Stage VI. Laying parquet boards

So, parquet boards are laid today mainly in two ways: glue and floating. Glue The adhesive method involves fixing the boards to the base by gluing. This is how they are placed on a cement-sand or concrete floor, on a gypsum screed and leveling compound. If you choose this method, be sure to pay attention to the recommendation of the board manufacturer himself - what requirements he puts forward. All this can be found in the attached instructions. Here's how to lay parquet boards using the glue method:

• Step 1. Prepare the base: check for evenness, completely remove dust and treat with a synthetic primer (water-based is undesirable). In total, you should need a little more than a kilogram per square meter (it all depends on the screed and the quality of the primer itself).
• Step 2. Lay out the parquet boards from the first two boxes in the order in which you will install them. Apply glue.
• Step 3. Place the first board. It must be longer than it is wide. We leave an expansion gap of 6-12 mm between the wall and the floor.
• Step 4. We tap the second board to the first - through a special block. The boards need to be glued within ten minutes.
• Step 5. When you cut the last board, immediately use the remaining part to start the next row.
• Step 6. Insert small wedges or spacers into the expansion gap between the wall and the floor (you can see them in the photo).
• Step 7. After gluing a few rows, carefully check to see if there are any gaps.
• Step 8. When all work is completed, seal the seams with acrylic sealant or cork chips. As an option, you can also install a special metal threshold.

Tip: for convenience, use a square - only with it you can draw really straight lines.

The so-called “floating” method of laying parquet boards has many advantages. The most important thing is that important gaps remain for ventilation and invisible changes in the shape of the board when the temperature changes. As evidence: in winter, with good heating, you can notice small gaps between the boards - but in summer they are not visible. Moreover, the wider the board itself, the more noticeable. These are important processes! And, if you chose a parquet board with a high-quality lock, it will last much longer than a regular glued one. You can see the process in more detail in this photo instruction:

A “floating” parquet floor is laid in two ways: using the same glue and “locking”. In the first method, the boards are glued not to the base, but to each other, and in the second method, they are connected without glue. Lock connections also have subtypes: “turn and click” or “blow and click”. Let's say the speed of such assembly is really impressive - just a couple of hours.

You can put everything on your own:

• Step 1. Start from the left corner of the room with the so-called “catch side” facing the wall.
• Step 2. Take the board with both hands and, holding it at an angle, place it on the edge of the board of the first row. The edge board that will be adjacent to the walls should not have grooves - cut them off with a plane.
• Step 3. Start the second row with the rest of the first row. But, if it turned out to be less than 30 cm, cut the new board in half.
• Step 4. When you lay the parquet board at the threshold, constantly check whether the doors open as easily as before.

Just trim the bottom if needed. In addition, there should always be at least a centimeter of distance between the door threshold and the wall. Another important thing is to tightly connect the boards together, use a wooden or rubber hammer, only tapping it lightly. Do not take the usual one - damage the floor.

For fairly large areas, this installation method is not very suitable - the integrity of the entire coating is compromised. The floor will creak and even warp. Therefore, in spacious rooms and halls, parquet boards can only be glued. That's all!

Complex installation - warm floors and logs

If you are going to lay a parquet board on a warm floor, first of all, find a material on sale that would be suitable for the future temperature regime. After all, not all species are sufficiently resistant to deformation, especially maple and beech. It is better to give preference to oak or walnut. But keep in mind that the maximum temperature for which any parquet board is designed is 26°C. And to understand whether the parquet board you have chosen is generally suitable for heated floors, look on its packaging for a special “suitable for heated floors” icon and instructions for such installation.

A salesperson or sales manager can help you find and consider all this. If there is nothing like this on the material, don’t take my word for it. If you have the opportunity to choose, then electric is better for such a coating - heating occurs evenly, and the wood expands more quietly. True, the floor level will have to be raised high.

If you still decide to install it on an electric one, you will be pleased with the ease and speed of installation. You will place the cable on a heat-insulating material (preferably foil), and you can immediately attach a parquet board on top. It is also convenient to place the popular infrared film floor under the parquet board: minimal thickness, perfectly smooth coating and easy installation. But not many people like its radiation. In any case, laying a parquet board on such a base can only be done in a “floating” way - because the heat will cause the wood to slightly change its parameters. Below is the installation process in the photo.

If you are laying parquet boards on beams or joists, be sure to ensure that they are dry and as strong as possible. Miss this moment - over time, the floor will creak unpleasantly and even become deformed. It is also important that there is good ventilation under the joists and that water vapor does not accumulate. In general, these are all difficulties. The best way to lay parquet boards on joists is this:

• Step 1. Prepare the logs, check for moisture and integrity.
• Step 2. Lay a layer of durable plywood.
• Step 3. We lay the parquet board: using glue or on a cork, which will help to slightly relieve the static load on the logs themselves (prevention of squeaking).

Less commonly, but this method is also practiced: the parquet board is attached directly to the joists themselves using staples or nails. Then the logs should go in increments of 60 cm, and take the parquet board itself thick enough.

And finally, we’ll tell you about a newer technology for preparing the base for laying boards - raised floors. Minimum time and cost: special logs on plastic bases are simply used, which not only slightly raise the floor, but also allow you to carry out the necessary communications under it. Thermal insulation is obtained, of course, much better than a conventional concrete base. Feel free to experiment!